Which Blue Sea Fuse Box to Use?

[bicycleagent003]

Holy Smokes - there are a lot of options!

My current set up is basically stock, though I have a winch would I would not be running through the fuse box anyway (of course).

I plan to have the truck for a long time, and hope to get a frig one day. I'm running some rear LEDs right now, which I don't really need to install a fuse box for (really). I can see getting solar panels one day, lots of other lights, an inverter (?), a frig, basically all the crap you guys are also running.

One of things I can't figure out is whether I should get a fuse box that has 1/2 always powered, and 1/2 powered only when the ignition is on. What would I want in the switched positions? What do you have there?

One thing I don't foresee is a dual battery set up. Maybe, but do I really need that if I'm running a frig? I think I might be good with a portable jump starter and keeping an eye on my power, and having a cut-off switch to avoid a frig draining my start battery.

So, basically, I'm asking for your suggestions based on what I've shared. What have you done, what would you suggest I do, what do you wish you had done differently? I feel like I'm getting sucked into bigger is better - heading toward a fuse box with half and half constant and switched, and 12 positions, etc. But that seems like overkill. Hence my post.

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

-Russell

 

[LC4LIFE]

heading toward a fuse box with half and half constantl

It largely depends on you you envision you using all your accessories, lights, chargers, etc. Using while the truck is on or off...

Personally, I run one fuse block for my switched accessories and then another separate one for all the accessories I want to have constant power, like my compressor and usb chargers.

I also like having two smaller fuse blocks to allow for more flexible placement around the truck. Sometimes that makes it easier to wire things up too.

 

[chap79]

@LC4LIFE pretty much summed up exactly what I was going to say. I have the 1/2 switched powered box on the firewall of the truck. Switched power provides current to the aux lights, charging ports, gps, dash cam. The other half powers my HAM, CB, and horns. I additionally have another constant on 12 port fuse block in the rear passenger quarter for trailer wiring, USB, aux ports, lights, fridge, and have the air compressor T'd off via another circuit breaker.

 

[Comet]

Note: I have not wired up anything yet so my ideas are just theory.

I will be utilizing the Slee 2nd battery with air compressor mount in the engine bay. The battery management will have a Ford starter relay that links the batteries when the truck is running and isolates them when the truck is off. The 2nd battery will provide constant on to the rear of the vehicle to a fuse box. The rear will accommodate the refrigerator, 12 volt pump for water, USB ports, interior LED lighting in rear hatch, exterior LED lighting for camp kitchen. So at a minimum I would want a 6 blade box in the rear for constant on power. I haven't decided if I will have switches in the rear to further isolate each component.

The solar intrigues me but at the moment I am camping for three days max so starting the truck for a little while will top off the 2nd battery without issues.

 

[Marine7]

I switched to a 1/2 powered 1/2 keyed box a few months ago. I run my commo off the keyed side ham/gmrs/cb, as well as my Viair compressor. Hot side carries fridge/usb’s/led’s..... skip the invertor, no real need for them anymore with solar and led’s. (My opinion... some people like their blenders!)

 

[ChaseTruck]

Just as a heads-up: I have a BlueSea fuse block mounted in front of the battery.
Yesterday, after about 40+ miles of rough & rocky trails, I found two of the screws had unthreaded themselves...

 

[LINUS]

It’s my boat, but same principle IMO.

I have a 6/6 switched / constant box , and a seperate 6 switched.

The constants on mine are for all the red & green nav lights (all but the mast light are LED) & the radio, my front hull 10* spot headlights (also has interior lights on same circuit w/ seperate switch) , and open ports for the LED bars facing both FR & RR when I finish my tower, and my bilge pump.

Those seem like the things I needed even if my motor was down for whatever reason.

Switched stuff is the air mover fan for the inboard compartment, the GPS/radar, the blower for the heater running off a heater core up front like a car, the downrigger power ports, the crab pot puller plug, the trolling motor - that filled my 6/6 unit.

My open 6 switched will be for the new Garmin TR-1 autopilot, with room for more since we ran large wire to a 3 port splitter (putting a #4500 Warn in the bow, will be wired direct to that 3rd port in the dist block).

I'd start with a 6/6 as you will want the fridge on constant, but say the compressor on the key, just to start.

 

[Comet]

I switched to a 1/2 powered 1/2 keyed box a few months ago. I run my commo off the keyed side ham/gmrs/cb, as well as my Viair compressor. Hot side carries fridge/usb’s/led’s..... skip the invertor, no real need for them anymore with solar and led’s. (My opinion... some people like their blenders!)

Joey now has an air powered blender. No need for inverter at all. I take all my drinks "neat" so it was never an issue for me either.

 

[thatcabledude]

Bussman fuse block.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks, guys. Your responses are very helpful.

 

[LINUS]

Bussman fuse block.

Sorry to toss your thread sideways @bicycleagent003 - but this is bugging me big-time.

@thatcabledude - mind breaking down the preference for Bussman over Blue Sea?

-I’m not a fanboy of either (bought a 10 panel Bussman last week actually, to replace the 6/6 Blue Sea that went down to the boat rigger) - and my LS3 in my boat is a real deal OBD-M / Kodiak (KEM) motor with a Bussman box bolted to the aluminum cover they install over the LS black plastic intake manifold, so I’ve got “skin in the game” both ways.

You know the finer points of this stuff, would be nice to hear what you see about either that makes you prefer Bussman.

 

[thatcabledude]

Sorry to toss your thread sideways @bicycleagent003 - but this is bugging me big-time.

@thatcabledude - mind breaking down the preference for Bussman over Blue Sea?

-I’m not a fanboy of either (bought a 10 panel Bussman last week actually, to replace the 6/6 Blue Sea that went down to the boat rigger) - and my LS3 in my boat is a real deal OBD-M / Kodiak (KEM) motor with a Bussman box bolted to the aluminum cover they install over the LS black plastic intake manifold, so I’ve got “skin in the game” both ways.

You know the finer points of this stuff, would be nice to hear what you see about either that makes you prefer Bussman.

Maybe a little more to properly install if you dont have a pair of the required crimpers, BUT the bussman is water/moisture proof, nothing to rattle loose.

I'm not familiar with all the BlueSea models, but the bussman can be setup with relays in it. The good kind... The ones you find in modern OEM applications. "Pound for pound" the bussman is smaller from what I've seen.

 

[LINUS]

Cool, good to know - yeah, I bought one of the Bussman that a forum member was selling awhile back, I got mine 2nd hand from a guy who never installed in his 80.

That makes sense why it has pigtails coming out from the underside, must be that proprietary crimper used so all us end users just need to solder & heatshrink / crimp butt connectors to the pigtails to do installs.