what does the waste gate actuator setup on the 13BT look like that you guys are taalking about shimming? On my AXT I bottomed out the turn buckle trying to get more boost pressure but could ony achieve about 8psi so I cut some of the threads off the linkage and was able to bring it up to 12psi but that was about all I could load it up to.
Which "3B" series engine to use?
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cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
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blownbj said:
I can get my AXT to 15psi or higher if I want to!! That's on a 3B in the BJ60 with 2 1/2" pipe following the stock routing but no muffler, stock air filter with either paper or TRD oiled filter. What's your setup look like?
Many of the factory OEM turbo's are non-adjustable which is why Stone and others need to shim them (basically move the actuator away from the wastegate thereby increasing the actuator/wastegate distance and "tightening up" the linkage (is that about right Greg/Stone).
blownbj said:
Edit - my post was directed at AXT turbo and yes should only do this if you have pyro and boost guage.
Stop adjusting the vacum linkage and get a grainger valve, that will allow you to trick the vacum into thinking you have less boost that you actually have and delay the bypass. I have found them to work great.
Cheers,
Michael
Last edited:
tlcruiserman said:
Only to be done if you have a boost gauge to monitor a sudden spring failure, or spring weakening with age...
We are playing a little to see if the amber light comes on, and what PSI this will happen, and how much shimming is needed to make it happen, so some data will be in the collective if someone wants to do this, not use a grainger valve, or boost gauge. The manual says the amber light on the dash should come on at 15.5lbs. When we are done playing, we'll post up.
I think it will require too much shimming to get to 15.5lbs, however if someone can add a small amount like say...4mm, and get a few more lbs (which will be noticable) and run at 8.5-9lbs..with little worry, this might be good...no?
gb
Greg_B said:
NO, it is very bad. I think you should remove the entire engine and send it to me, then install a good old 3B. You will thank me when you do!
crushers
post ho
agreed, any playing with the boost should be accompanied with both a boost guage and a pyro...Greg_B said:
now do note that if the spring did fail either breaking or weakening, the boost would go back to 8 lbs, if the complete unit came free of the housing then the boost would be usually 20 lbs (or so i have seen).
Greg_B said:
all of which would be caught with dem der two gauges. no problemo
I get your idea, you just want to adjust to stock. or so to speak.
personally I would install the gauges and crank the boost to the low teens and adjust fuel accordingly.
why screw around for 8.5 lbs? but thats just my thoughts. you got the set up. just tweek it a little.
but it would be nice to see what it takes for you guys to hit stock. a couple washers under the mounts for the actuator......
crushers
post ho
i realise that most of us feel over fueling will kill the engine but i have found on a couple of my rigs that overfueling did very little to the top egts. it doesn't make sense but i am living proof...Greg_B said:
once again it comes down to how long you drive with your foot right into it. if you back off just for a second the egts start dropping fast...
if the unit did come loose and the boost went through the roof it would only be for a second till you realised, "crap! this thing really moves!"
simular if the spring broke and the boost maxed at 8 lbs again you would feel the change and realise something was wrong. the only time you would be in trouble would be if you kept your foot into it and the egts started to climb...
i doubt you would not feel the changes, they are quite dramatic.
i agree Greg, better safe than sorry...
cheers
I also agree that if you want to mess around with the fuel air mixtures on the diesel engines the only safe way is to monitor closely especially with pyrometer.
