When modified 200s go the dealer for repairs

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If it were me, I think the easiest to start would be to pop the switch itself out, and run some wires from there around out the window and to the connector on the master cylinder. That way you can verify it fixes the issue quickly before running the new cable.

Funny you make this suggestion, because I asked the dealer to do exactly that. I said, "If you can't provide the cure, can you at least confirm the diagnosis?" But they refused. Maybe the audio shop will do that first though. I'll mention it to them and let them decide.
 
Did you go thru the passenger or driver side? I went thru the passenger side which which was unused or almost.
 
I remember looking at the driver side before I put my air compressor in. As I remember there were a lot of wires in the center part. After I put my compressor i had a hard time seeing it anymore.
 
Well, my poor truck has been at the audio/alarm/electronics shop for 2.5 weeks so far. I made a surprise visit today and saw it on the floor, along with a bunch of other vehicles. The shop is the go-to place in the area, and they are really swamped. The owner said they've put about 12 hours into it so far. He said it's been sitting on the shop floor for 2.5 weeks because it's a really difficult job, and he wants to have the right people focusing on it and take his time. But he showed me what they did so far. Basically they disassembled the entire lower dash area and pulled out all the obstructions in the engine bay interfering with firewall access. After doing that and getting good access to the firewall, they found a piece of metal stuck into the big harness that leads to the SC ECU. Apparently, when I was fishing wires through the hole, a piece of something broke off and got lodged in there. It's likely that's how the 4 wires got damaged.

The next step, he said, is to pull out the harness sufficiently to inspect all the wires for damage, find and repair the four I broke, and fix any other damage that might need attention. He still hasn't decided on the best approach to doing this. He is also leaning toward a conclusion that the firewall was also overpacked. He will likely expand the firewall and rewire some things in the process.

Looks like this is going to be very labor-intensive and costly job. Folks, take care of your firewalls! Don't make my mistake.
 
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Well, my poor truck has been at the audio/alarm/electronics shop for 2.5 weeks so far. I made a surprise visit today and saw it on the floor, along with a bunch of other vehicles. The shop is the go-to place in the area, and they are really swamped. The owner said they've put about 12 hours into it so far. He said it's been sitting on the shop floor for 2.5 weeks because it's a really difficult job, and he wants to have the right people focusing on it and take his time. But he showed me what they did so far. Basically they disassembled the entire lower dash area and pulled out all the obstructions in the engine bay interfering with firewall access. After doing that and getting good access to the firewall, they found a piece of metal stuck into the big harness that leads to the SC ECU. Apparently, when I was fishing wires through the hole, a piece of something broke off and got lodged in there. It's likely that's how the 4 wires got damaged.

The next step, he said, is to pull out the harness sufficiently to inspect all the wires for damage, find and repair the four I broke, and fix any other damage that might need attention. He still hasn't decided on the best approach to doing this. He is also leaning toward a conclusion that the firewall was also overpacked. He will likely expand the firewall and rewire some things in the process.

Looks like this is going to be very labor-intensive and costly job. Folks, take care of your firewalls! Don't make my mistake.
You’re a brave man trusting this work to an audio shop.
 
Well, good news today. Shop temporarily spliced the bad wires and had me come in for a test drive to help ensure everything was working as previously. And all was good!

Interestedly, they only found 3 wires giving open readings, not the 4 the dealer found. They tested the 4th wire identified by the dealer, and it was normal. They physically inspected it as well.

Also, they got the entire wire bundle opened up and found no damage to any other wires. They were able to expand the hole in the rubber in the existing firewall too, so no major rewiring there.

So all in all, this wasn't the giant job I feared. They're going to replace the splice with permanent wire, install a remote starter, and then I can pick up later this week.

I got pretty lucky actually. They told me I could have easily shorted out some components wired to the SC ECU or even damaged the ECU itself.

If anyone needs a competent (if not the speediest) electrical shop in NYC metro, let me know!
 
Well, my poor truck has been at the audio/alarm/electronics shop for 2.5 weeks so far. I made a surprise visit today and saw it on the floor, along with a bunch of other vehicles. The shop is the go-to place in the area, and they are really swamped. The owner said they've put about 12 hours into it so far. He...

Looks like you found a good shop. Albeit it took a while but sounds like it was done correctly. You do have more wires than usual would be an understatement. I'm sure others will learn from your pain. Take it to a good audio shop. Makes sense.
 
She's back home!

Shop had one mishap. The failed to plug the temp sensor back in, which caused the heat to blow out of control on my drive home. But I immediately returned to the shop, and they fixed it instantly.

It was interesting to watch them fix their error. They used an aftermarket scanner, which showed them the a code for cabin sensor not active. I could also see historical codes for the traction control.

The Computer T12 is what I got for the remote starter, and it works great, though I haven't tested the claimed 3-mile range yet. One feature I like a lot is the temperature activated start, which can be used to keep the truck from getting too hot or too cool when you leave somewhere on hot or cold days. Of course, I haven't put that feature to real use yet either.
 
The Computer T12 is what I got for the remote starter, and it works great, though I haven't tested the claimed 3-mile range yet. One feature I like a lot is the temperature activated start, which can be used to keep the truck from getting too hot or too cool when you leave somewhere on hot or cold days. Of course, I haven't put that feature to real use yet either.

I think you mean Compustar T12 (blame autocorrect), I have the older version of that model, it works very well although I admit I don't use it very often. I can get a remarkable range, but not 3 miles, maybe 1/2 mile. Never used the keep warm feature, but its cool how the remote can tell you stuff like the current temp inside the car, battery voltage, etc. Do you have a big antenna thing on your windshield now?
 
I think you mean Compustar T12 (blame autocorrect), I have the older version of that model, it works very well although I admit I don't use it very often. I can get a remarkable range, but not 3 miles, maybe 1/2 mile. Never used the keep warm feature, but its cool how the remote can tell you stuff like the current temp inside the car, battery voltage, etc. Do you have a big antenna thing on your windshield now?

How is the parasitic draw on the compustar unit? I'm in the market for a remote start, but I might go the OEM route. Just considering aftermarket options.
 
How is the parasitic draw on the compustar unit? I'm in the market for a remote start, but I might go the OEM route. Just considering aftermarket options.
I would be curious about the parasitic draw also. I have a Viper RS and I think the parasitic draw is bad on it.
 
How is the parasitic draw on the compustar unit? I'm in the market for a remote start, but I might go the OEM route. Just considering aftermarket options.

Uhh.. good question, never checked it, and I've never had a battery issue. I know where the brain is, so I could test it, but I'm not keen to do this now out in the cold, where fragile plastic panels like to shatter.
 
A few years ago, I had my 200 in to the dealer to replace the radiator. I was thinking they were going to charge me extra because they had to work around the ARB front bumper. Happily, they didn't. My service guys are really good to me, and they like my 200. I feel like I'm in good hands with them.
 
How is the parasitic draw on the compustar unit? I'm in the market for a remote start, but I might go the OEM route. Just considering aftermarket options.
The spot on the windshield is where the antenna is for my Viper. It is generating enough heat to melt the snow in that spot.

IMG_1035.webp


IMG_1036.webp
 
Would love to get a new remote starter but don't want to carry 2 key fobs.
 
Would love to get a new remote starter but don't want to carry 2 key fobs.
I don't find the second fob as bad as the parasitic draw is. The second two way fob is rather small.
 
A few years ago, I had my 200 in to the dealer to replace the radiator. I was thinking they were going to charge me extra because they had to work around the ARB front bumper. Happily, they didn't. My service guys are really good to me, and they like my 200. I feel like I'm in good hands with them.
I appreciate reports about good dealers. Nice to know there are some!
 
The spot on the windshield is where the antenna is for my Viper. It is generating enough heat to melt the snow in that spot.

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Here's a really bad picture of the antenna on mine, it's at the upper corner on the driver's side (sorry, camera focused on the garage ceiling). That little stalk is about 6" long. I never noticed it melting snow like that, I'll try to pay attention to this next time I have a chance.

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