I had my 2014 LC200 built about a year ago. Steering used to be perfect. Since the build, once the car gets hot, if I am going slow or not moving, the power steering seems to go away. Steering the car can be almost impossible while not moving. The shop just keeps flushing the fluid telling me it looks burnt. Does anyone have a more sustainable fix for running big tires on a 200? Is there a pump upgrade? Is there a power steering cooler upgrade?
Wheeling is cooking power steering fluid (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hendlerj
- Start date
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Sorry to hear that. When you say “built” could you elaborate on exactly what was changed with the vehicle?
Was there electrical work done?
Suspension? If so, which parts were replaced?
Was significant weight added to the vehicle? Either in the form of bumpers or other accessories?
Any engine work done in an effort to increase power or improve some other aspect of performance?
Was there electrical work done?
Suspension? If so, which parts were replaced?
Was significant weight added to the vehicle? Either in the form of bumpers or other accessories?
Any engine work done in an effort to increase power or improve some other aspect of performance?
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
I'm surprised we don't hear more about this issue. My power steering also went out on me under similar circumstances during LCDCX on Black Bear Pass of all places. After cooling down, it was fine again for two other trail runs and until I got home (1,000 miles) where it went out again as I was maneuvering the trailer onto my driveway. Flushing the system with fresh fluid only made it worse and the pump started making noise. I'm currently in the process of replacing the pump.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Adding a small oil to air transmission cooler to the PS circuit should alleviate the problem. Just make sure it’s located where the radiator fan can effectively draw air over it.
- Thread starter
- #5
This sounds like a solution. Do you have one you recommend?
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Setrab is a top supplier to OEM and aftermarket. There are an endless number of manufacturers along with sizes and styles. Stick to the stacked plate type.
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The stock system has a pretty large PS cooler in front and along the bottom edge of the radiator. It's possible due to components or armor that the airflow to this cooler has been compromised. The stock skid has a lot of holes there to help it breath. It may be possible to relocate the cooler or supplement it to @bjowett 's point. Here's a photo snippet of the cooler below.
There's also the question of how much more load is being put on the steering system. Big tires obviously. Aggressive offsets are probably a more significant contributor.
There's also the question of how much more load is being put on the steering system. Big tires obviously. Aggressive offsets are probably a more significant contributor.
The simple question have you flushed and replaced your fluid? Old fluid doesn't perform well. Two weeks ago in Ouray someone had issues with their power steering, removed some of it and replaced it with new as a temp fix and issues went away. Flush and refill is easy and can be done quickly. there is a post on here about how to do it.
edit: I see the shop keeps flushing. Are they using the correct fluid? ATF Dexron II or III.. I also see some have recommended replacing the resivour as the screen isn't serviceable. Toyota 44360-60291 Reservoir Assembly, Oil
edit: I see the shop keeps flushing. Are they using the correct fluid? ATF Dexron II or III.. I also see some have recommended replacing the resivour as the screen isn't serviceable. Toyota 44360-60291 Reservoir Assembly, Oil
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
The stock 200 PS cooler is a basic tube and fin. A stacked plate unit with appropriate FPI and of the same core volume will simply out perform… it has vastly greater amounts of tube to fin contact when compared (or should that be plate to fin!?) and that’s where the magic happens. Airflow is also key, good to point it out. Ducts can also help.
Anybody understands why this failure happens?
I understand high temps, however does that mean the PS fluid being used is starting to boil? Or is the total pressure opening some kind of relief valve in the PS pump? Anybody figured out the root cause?
Adding a cooler sounds nice however makes things more complicated as well.
Does something like using Redline D4 ATF mitigate this issue all together?
Your thoughts please?
I understand high temps, however does that mean the PS fluid being used is starting to boil? Or is the total pressure opening some kind of relief valve in the PS pump? Anybody figured out the root cause?
Adding a cooler sounds nice however makes things more complicated as well.
Does something like using Redline D4 ATF mitigate this issue all together?
Your thoughts please?
yea get a bigger/better flat plate cooler, earl's make nice ones in many sizes that should fit.
fluid is getting too thin at high temps, if the fluid is too thin the pressure drops, also wears out your pump when it's too thin. The redline fluid might work better, not a bad idea to try it
I wheel all over the place at high and low altitude, in Hot and cold weather and have never experienced this. The stock system should not do this if well maintained or without another issue. My truck is 10 years old with 100K miles and I am going to do the Power steering fluid flush and res replacement next month for Maintenance.
- Thread starter
- #15
The new armor is definitely impeding air flow. Maybe drill small holes in the armor to let more air in?
- Thread starter
- #16
Is your suggestion to replace the OEM or to add an additional cooler to the circuit?
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I have been using that Redline D4 in my power steering system for the last 45,000 miles. I routinely wheel in 6000-9000ft elevation with temps above 90F. Fuel boiling is all I noticed .
My LC weighs 7,000ish lbs, has full skids, bumpers.
bloc
SILVER Star
One strategy: at each oil change, pull the fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new.
This keeps most of the fluid in the system relatively fresh, and is simple and cheap to do.
This keeps most of the fluid in the system relatively fresh, and is simple and cheap to do.
I actually flushed the factory grayish looking fluid out with Redline D4 a couple of weeks ago and plan to follow bloc’s way of emptying the PS reservoir and adding some new every other oil change, i.e. 10k miles in my case. Hope that will prevent the reported issue.
Have not looked into this; Will holding the wheels at an angle for prolonged times put a lot of pressure or work and therefore heat on the PS pump? I have not searched for a diagram explaining the basics of this system but can see that causing overheating as well.
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TLC2013
SILVER Star
When I changed the fluid at 80,000 miles it was filthy and gray like you mentioned too. Ever since then the replacement redline fluid has stayed looking red a clean.
