Wheeling is cooking power steering fluid

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Is your suggestion to replace the OEM or to add an additional cooler to the circuit?
either will help. but if there is space with good airflow i would prefer to just have one cooler for a cleaner install and less clamps. I'm not sure what would make the most since in your situation.
 
The new armor is definitely impeding air flow. Maybe drill small holes in the armor to let more air in?

Not a bad idea and worth considering. I would try to fix the root issue rather than fix the symptoms. If the PS cooler is not getting airflow, the condenser behind it and radiator are not getting great airflow either. Each will cause some percentage of cooling loss to the respective systems. The transmission cooler is there too within the lower part of the radiator.

If you care to share, maybe a pic of the armor, to see if there's ways to help with airflow?

Anybody understands why this failure happens?

I understand high temps, however does that mean the PS fluid being used is starting to boil? Or is the total pressure opening some kind of relief valve in the PS pump? Anybody figured out the root cause?

Adding a cooler sounds nice however makes things more complicated as well.

Does something like using Redline D4 ATF mitigate this issue all together?

Your thoughts please?

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Fluid boiling will introduce air bubbles into the hydraulic circuit. That could airlock the circuit or the pump could lose prime.

Higher performance fluid could help, but IMO that's only a partial mitigation as the fluid could continue to climb in temperature without sufficient cooling. Also the pump, hoses, and seals can all be compromised affecting durability when working at elevated temps long term.
 
Anyone know the total volume of fluid the system holds?
 
Thanks. Good to know. My emptying and refilling of the reservoir isn't going to do as much as I thought that it would. Even at 7-10k mile intervals of aspirating old reservoir fluid (looks brown) and refilling with new (clear), I don't know that the 12 oz bottle of the Idemitsu psf is going to do as much to help prolong fluid life as I thought.

Might be worth getting a few bottles and turning steering wheel lock to lock with emptying/refilling the reservoir after each lock cycle.

Assuming 1.2L, you'd need 3.4 bottles of the 12oz idemitsu stuff for something close to "complete" fluid exchange. You're right, this isn't as uniform and exact as disconnecting the return line and doing it right. I don't trust myself to not make a gigantic mess in that little area under the hood.

I am assuming I'm an outlier in not using the transmission fluid option listed in the manual.
1.2 liter as I understand. Was not able to exactly measure when I flushed. Used 2 quarts or almost 2 liter of new redline D4 in the process.
 
Thanks. Good to know. My emptying and refilling of the reservoir isn't going to do as much as I thought that it would. Even at 7-10k mile intervals of aspirating old reservoir fluid (looks brown) and refilling with new (clear), I don't know that the 12 oz bottle of the Idemitsu psf is going to do as much to help prolong fluid life as I thought.

Might be worth getting a few bottles and turning steering wheel lock to lock with emptying/refilling the reservoir after each lock cycle.

Assuming 1.2L, you'd need 3.4 bottles of the 12oz idemitsu stuff for something close to "complete" fluid exchange. You're right, this isn't as uniform and exact as disconnecting the return line and doing it right. I don't trust myself to not make a gigantic mess in that little area under the hood.

I am assuming I'm an outlier in not using the transmission fluid option listed in the manual.
I actually bought a hose and fitting and clamped it to the return line and had it hanging into empty gallon motor oil can secured, then with a funnel and ready with two 1 quart bottles of redline D4 had my wife start, turn full each side once and shut down again all in about 15 sec while pouring in the redline D4. It worked but it was arguable pumping to fast, may even have pumped a few seconds with low oil at the suction side.

Then I pulled out the oil out of the reservoir and reconnected the return line. Filled it up using the remaining of the 2nd quart bottle and started the engine to let any air out.

Worked but I would recommend jacking up on each side (I actually have good capacity jack stands) then have a helper move the steering wheel side by side (accessory mode, do not start…).

I just do not like dropping the cruiser onto jack stands more than I need to, but this case I should have.

All in all now with redline D4 full synthetic in place I am going to just replace the reservoir and change by dilution every 10k miles (easy to remember at for me 40k, 50k etc).
 
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Ok. I replaced all the fluid with Red Line D4 ATF. It doesn't seem to have fixed anything. Maybe it is a little improved, but it's not fixed. Next step is to install a second oil to air cooler.
 
Ok. I replaced all the fluid with Red Line D4 ATF. It doesn't seem to have fixed anything. Maybe it is a little improved, but it's not fixed. Next step is to install a second oil to air cooler.
You have factory front bumper or aftermarket? Could you add any holes?
 
You have factory front bumper or aftermarket? Could you add any holes?
Definitely aftermarket that is definitely blocking airflow. Consensus seems to be that adding holes is a bad idea given the real wheeling we do. I think adding another oil to air cooler to the circuit is the next step.
 
Definitely aftermarket that is definitely blocking airflow. Consensus seems to be that adding holes is a bad idea given the real wheeling we do. I think adding another oil to air cooler to the circuit is the next step.
How do the fins on the factory cooler look?
Any chance any of your aftermarket add ons messed with it, maybe during install?

To help others try to help you, I found your mods.
Let me know if you want me to remove this.
Screenshot_20240825_225356_Chrome.jpg
 

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