Wheel spacer question (1 Viewer)

[kcjaz]

I’m considering trying relatively thin wheel spacers to help resolve a slight KDSS rub I have at full wheel lock. 1/4 or 1/2” will do it and I think I’ll still have clearance on the back by the rocker and body mount.

These thin spacers just slip over the lug studs and as such, I would assume you need to get longer studs.

The spaces I’ve found on line don’t come with new studs and don’t talk about needing longer studs.

Has anyone done this and used this kind of spacer on their 200? My wheels are 25mm offset so that is why I don’t need much thickness on the spacer.

 

[empty80]

I tried a 1/4” spacer on +25mm wheel to address a KDSS rub. No issues getting the appropriate level of thread engagement.

It did very little for the rub.

 

[gaijin]

I’m considering trying relatively thin wheel spacers to help resolve a slight KDSS rub I have at full wheel lock. 1/4 or 1/2” will do it and I think I’ll still have clearance on the back by the rocker and body mount.

These thin spacers just slip over the lug studs and as such, I would assume you need to get longer studs.

The spaces I’ve found on line don’t come with new studs and don’t talk about needing longer studs.

Has anyone done this and used this kind of spacer on their 200? My wheels are 25mm offset so that is why I don’t need much thickness on the spacer.

Are these the general type of spacer you are talking about?

If so, then IMHO they are a very bad idea.

Your wheels are hub-centric which means they primarily index on the 110mm diameter raised ring on the inside of the wheel. If you mount the spacers, your wheel will no longer contact the hub-centric ring and will become lug-centric - i.e. relying on the lug nuts only to keep your wheel centred on the hub. The technical term for this is, "BAD!"

HTH

 

[highfructose]

I’m considering trying relatively thin wheel spacers to help resolve a slight KDSS rub I have at full wheel lock. 1/4 or 1/2” will do it and I think I’ll still have clearance on the back by the rocker and body mount.

These thin spacers just slip over the lug studs and as such, I would assume you need to get longer studs.

The spaces I’ve found on line don’t come with new studs and don’t talk about needing longer studs.

Has anyone done this and used this kind of spacer on their 200? My wheels are 25mm offset so that is why I don’t need much thickness on the spacer.

What size tires are you running? What offset gets around the kdss issue? 0? 15?

Like the other poster said, going away from hub centric and making your vehicle effectively be lug centric is not ideal.

 

[kcjaz]

What size tires are you running? What offset gets around the kdss issue? 0? 15?

Like the other poster said, going away from hub centric and making your vehicle effectively be lug centric is not ideal.

Not sure what offset less than 0 would work. Pretty sure 1” spacers (zero offset) would do it but then I think I’m fighting the body mount or rocker.

I understand the points about keeping the wheels hub centric. Hub centric spacers are available.

Billet Hub Centric Wheel Spacers BMW 10mm

Hub centric billet spacers sold in pairs. 6061 T6 billet aluminum. CNC machined. Fit BMW 5 lug 120mm bolt pattern with certain conditions.

www.ezaccessory.com

I don’t know anything about this brand and need to do more research.

But from what @empty80 said, maybe it’s not enough.

I think I’ll make some plywood spacers to see what potential impact is. I could even make them hub centric!

 

[kcjaz]

Are these the general type of spacer you are talking about?

View attachment 3305481

If so, then IMHO they are a very bad idea.

Your wheels are hub-centric which means they primarily index on the 110mm diameter raised ring on the inside of the wheel. If you mount the spacers, your wheel will no longer contact the hub-centric ring and will become lug-centric - i.e. relying on the lug nuts only to keep your wheel centred on the hub. The technical term for this is, "BAD!"

HTH

Roger that. Hub centric versions are available.

 

[highfructose]

If you go 1” then you get to zero offset. Bora is an excellent brand. Spidertrax is a good brand (imo).

I’ve read of a guy running 35’s on zero offset w a 200 and avoiding kdss.

 

[04UZJ100]

If you go 1” then you get to zero offset. Bora is an excellent brand. Spidertrax is a good brand (imo).

I’ve read of a guy running 35’s on zero offset w a 200 and avoiding kdss.

What makes you say Bora over ST?

 

[highfructose]

What makes you say Bora over ST?

I’ve seen people complain of quality control issues with spidertrax. I’ve never seen a complaint with bora.

That said, spidertrax may put out 10 times the volume of bora and, thus, complaints may be more an indicator of prevalence rather than likelihood of an issue.

Your mileage may vary. I’ve had good experience w my bora spacers.

 

[kcjaz]

I test fitted some 1/2 spacers that a local club guy had and I think they will solve my KDSS issue. I need to get extended length wheel studs that are at least 1/2" longer than stock. The stock thread length is about 25mm. I want to get extended length with at least 40 mm thread but 50 mm would probably work. I found some 60 mm thread studs but that is too much. Can anyone point me at a source for 40-50 mm thread length studs?

 

[highfructose]

I test fitted some 1/2 spacers that a local club guy had and I think they will solve my KDSS issue. I need to get extended length wheel studs that are at least 1/2" longer than stock. The stock thread length is about 25mm. I want to get extended length with at least 40 mm thread but 50 mm would probably work. I found some 60 mm thread studs but that is too much. Can anyone point me at a source for 40-50 mm thread length studs?

So you’re looking for an effective offset of 10-15mm (25-12.5=12.5mm)?

What size tires are you currently running?

 

[kcjaz]

So you’re looking for an effective offset of 10-15mm (25-12.5=12.5mm)?

Yes

What size tires are you currently running?

285/75/R17 K02s. Icon 6 Speed wheels.

 

[1MAC]

Are you sure that’s a good idea? I wouldn’t run 50-60mm long studs. Either stick with what you have or use spacers with their own studs. Both proven to work.

 

[iwashmycar]

These sorts of spacers are very common, especially on German makes since they have lug bolts.....they almost always come with the longer bolts.

Most people probably arent too keen on swapping out lug studs, so probably easier to just sell the spacers only.

Worst case you could probably have the studs shortened somewhere. That was a common practice for guys who upgraded to ARP studs (on FJ Cruisers) for instance.

 

[kcjaz]

Are you sure that’s a good idea? I wouldn’t run 50-60mm long studs. Either stick with what you have or use spacers with their own studs. Both proven to work.

I don’t think you can get 1/2” spacers with studs built in. This style seems to only be on thicker spacers.

In my head (which may not be screwed on correctly) this style seems safer than thicker spacers with integral studs at the spacer can’t come loose because it is sandwiched between the hub and the wheel.

Regarding longer studs, the only issue I can think of is the longer stud causing bending moment arm that allows a lateral force to bend the stud and fail it that way. However I think way the studs are intended to prevent any relative motion between the wheel and the axle hub is by the tension in the torqued stud/nut pressing the wheel flaunt against the hub surface. It’s the friction between the wheel and the hub that doesn’t allow the wheel to slip against the hub, not the bending resistance of the stud.

All that said, there is definitely a 1/2” moment arm in there with the spacer that wasn’t there before. Worth some more research.