Wheel lug nuts: OK to use the flats for conical ? (1 Viewer)

[cruiserdan]

In this particular case it was lower knuckle studs. wheel stud failure would result in similar damages.


As far as temporary use goes, many Toyyota vehicles have alloy wheels on the ground and a steel spare. They do not come with two kinds of lug nuts. That DOES NOT condone full-time usage of alloy lugs on steel wheels however.

 

[landandsea]

Eric,

There's right; there's wrong; and there's proper.

Using the lug nuts from the alloys could be right or wrong...discuss it all day long.

But using them is not proper. Those washers hanging there in the air is a sure sign of "not proper". I don't like "not proper".

I bought the proper lugnuts (from Dan, of course) and haven't given it a second thought.

Ed

 

[e9999]

Eric,

There's right; there's wrong; and there's proper.

Using the lug nuts from the alloys could be right or wrong...discuss it all day long.

But using them is not proper. Those washers hanging there in the air is a sure sign of "not proper". I don't like "not proper".

I bought the proper lugnuts (from Dan, of course) and haven't given it a second thought.

Ed

I'm no proper old lady... and I like to understand what I'm doing and why. And I don't like urban myths...
E

 

[e9999]

was at MAF, they carry taper nuts (in bulk, not in packages), was told they are "Gorrillas" but no markings to that effect (they say "12mm1.50 on them. Had 2 kinds: regular ($0.35) and heavy duty heat treated ($0.75).
These heat treated nuts a good thing? Gorrillas OK quality -if that's what these are?
Seems like a decent price (less than Kragen et al.)
E

 

[robbie]

OK eric I see what you see now. I have a 4/runner in the shop. It's wheel lug holes are as you describe (spare any way). The metal on the rim Is thinner (4.6mm(4/run) vs 8.5mm(cruiser)) Almost 1/2 the thickness of the center section of the wheel. The lug nuts with the washer fits perfectly into the angle of the wheel So all is good in this respect. I would think the rim are not designed for the weight of the cruiser if the metal is 1/2 as thick, or maybe the cruiser wheel is overbuilt. alter robbie

 

[e9999]

OK eric I see what you see now. I have a 4/runner in the shop. It's wheel lug holes are as you describe (spare any way). The metal on the rim Is thinner (4.6mm(4/run) vs 8.5mm(cruiser)) Almost 1/2 the thickness of the center section of the wheel. The lug nuts with the washer fits perfectly into the angle of the wheel So all is good in this respect. I would think the rim are not designed for the weight of the cruiser if the metal is 1/2 as thick, or maybe the cruiser wheel is overbuilt. alter robbie

Hi Robbie:
good point on the strength issue, so I checked. The current Tundra is rated for 6,300 lbs GVWR, against 6,470 lbs for the 97 LC. So it would seem that the OEM Tundra steel wheel should be strong enough for the LC as well.
E
and the Sequoia is 6700 lbs (same wheel)

 

[e9999]

well, I bought some conical nuts from M a F while I was there. Best they had, heat treated, right size for Toyotas.
Tried a couple on with Dykem. Sadly, the nut/wheel contact area is about half that of the "flat washer" used as conical nut. Angle was right, though, so it must be the diameter.

Sooo, the -arguably- "best" aftermarket nut seems to be a much worse fit than the flat OEM one. Now, admittedly, the material -esp. heat treated- may be better, I don't know.
But that does not look good contact wise at all. Maybe others would be better.

So much for the notion that aftermarket nut is automatically better than the flat OEM, I think.

Leaves only the OEM conical ones I think at this point to try. Will do that.

Lesson: don't assume that because it's conical it's good. Dykem them to see!

E

 

[xingji]

Rich,

One thing I would do Eric, would be to carefully clean the tapered sections on the wheel and the nut as would be common practice for maximum reliability. Brake cleaner, etc. A lot of people here use antisieze on their lugs as I do, and it's extremely important that this be ONLY on the threads and NEVER on the tapered mating surfaces. Never on the tapers. The friction of the tapered surface is what prevents these nuts from loosening and any lube will degrade this "bond" significantly.

DougM

quick question about the antisieze on the lug nuts. Could the antisieze act as a lubricant and alter the torquing characteristic of the lug nuts? ie it makes you torque more than actual 76ft/lb and lead to warping of discs?

 

[Grench]

To clear up confusion or allow you guys to point out mine...

As far as I know...
There are at least four kinds of OEM wheels used on 80s in the US. Probably a few more than I know about.
1. 15" steel seated alloy used on '91 and '92
2. 16" steel seated alloy used on '93 to '94 (Edited per Dan's note. I wasn't sure if it was '94 or '95 when it switched.)
3. 16" with no steel seats used on '95, '96 and '97 that require washer lugs. (Edited per Dan's note.)
4. 16" steel rims in black or gray/aluminum paint.

As far as I know there are two kinds of lug nuts.
1. conical for use on steel rims and alloy rims with steel seats.
2. washer for use on alloy rims without steel seats.

I'm 110% certain that if you use a conical nut on a rim designed for a washer lug you're signing up for certain doom, death, repairs, etc...

Using a washer nut on a steel seated or steel rim? Not on my truck. I can see the argument, but I can't see taking the risk.

 

[cruiserdan]

Wheel #2 is 93-94.

 

[Grench]

Wheel #2 is 93-94.

Thank you Sir! I corrected it in my above post now just in case someone pulls it up in a search without the rest of the info.