Does a 2005 need to have the wheel bearings repacked for a front break job? I've heard that they do but an SAE certified toyota tech (independent) says they don't. He says they are "slip-ons" and later models don't need repacking.
Wheel bearings and break job
- Thread starter WoodyCreature
- Start date
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Repacking of the bearings is an option on any brake job but normally done in most cases. Also do not over look the lubrication of the spindle bushing
How to lubricate the front axle shaft spindle bushings
Well if you/he mean, by "front break job", replacing the rotor...then you'd better find a different mechanic because the one you quoted doesn't have a clue about 100-Series. Otherwise if he's referring to just replacing the pads then yes they are basically "slip-ons"...
Rear rotors are "slips ons" (simply by taking off the caliper, it slides off). The fronts are more labor intensive (for me, at least). It does require taking apart the hubs, which if you've got it open, might as well lube/service it.
If you're having a shop do the brakes, make sure to give Toyota a call to get a quote. I found that they're about the same as an indy shop (I got the fronts quoted at ~$600 at Toyota and $550 at an indy shop). I also get 10-15% off "mature Toyota" coupons in the mail frequently, so that puts the pricing right about the same. Difference being, the Toyota mechanics are more likely to know what they're doing and they'll use OEM products.
If you're having a shop do the brakes, make sure to give Toyota a call to get a quote. I found that they're about the same as an indy shop (I got the fronts quoted at ~$600 at Toyota and $550 at an indy shop). I also get 10-15% off "mature Toyota" coupons in the mail frequently, so that puts the pricing right about the same. Difference being, the Toyota mechanics are more likely to know what they're doing and they'll use OEM products.
I generally find this to be not the case.
Guess it depends on your area.
I'm fortunate to have some good Toyota mechanics here. (and indy).
- Thread starter
- #7
Would that be the same for only turning the rotors? In other words need to be serviced.
Some types of rotor milling machines can surface the rotors on the rig; some of these along with the technicians that operate them are better/worse in terms of effective results (assuming post surfacing the thickness of the rotors is still in spec). I've personally never had my 100-Series rotors turned...
Just had mine done. To turn (resurface) the front rotors, you either have to take them off and repack the bearings, or if the bearings are ok, you can have the rotors turned while on the vehicle. It saves a couple hundred dollars doing it on the vehicle. HOWEVER...make sure they know what they are doing. An independent shop (who are friends of mine) turned my buddy's rotors on his LX while still on the vehicle and they tore a CV boot which led to more work and money. I decided to take mine to the dealership. No problems what so ever. The dealership garage was so pretty! Not one piece of dirt on the ground and it had AC!
- Thread starter
- #10
So sounds like you don't need to have them repacked unless they need it or you can't turn rotors without taking them off. Any case, upon further questioning of my local dealership it sounds like out of (their) convience they remove the rotors to turn them because they only have one machine that will turn them while on the vehicle and it's "a tight fit" in the bay where they do them. Sounds a little scammy to me.
Funny - I had a similar experience recently at the dealership. They said I needed new front pads and that automatically became a $750 job cause they would also have to turn the rotors and repack the bearing while they're in there. No option to turn it on the wheel, and no option to just replace the pads without turning the rotors. I laughed inside and just replaced the pads myself but I like the way you summed it up "Sounds a little scammy" to me too
I only paid $507 at a local Lexus dealership for front brakes. That included labor and factory parts (pads, shim kit, fitting kit, fluid, etc.) That also included turning rotors while on truck. The tech said my bearings were fine and didnt need to be repacked at this time. They charged me $363 to do the rears. YES, I know thats expensive! I did a full brake job on my FJ62 including repacking bearings, new rotors, calipers, stainless steel lines and new hub kit. I bought the FJ62 to work on. I bought the LX470 for someone else to work on! They did want $400 for oil change, lube drivetrain, rotate tires, and change cabin filters...thats a little ridiculous. I paid $50 for oil change and did the filters and lubed drivetrain my self. Some things I refuse to pay for! I personally can't stand any vibration in the brake pedal...which may or may not happen with new pads on an unturned rotor. good luck.
Over $500 to resurface a rotor and change the pads? WTF?
hey guys, on this subject...
i need to tear apart my front end to quiet a god-awful squealing noise i've been getting with my front brakes that happens about 80% of the time in the last couple yards of coming to a stop. i know that i have at least 1/4" of brake material showing in the middle channel of the pads, so i've ruled out pads worn out and think it's something metal to metal that's vibrating or making contact, like the pads vibrating against the retainer plates. visual inspection showed all brake parts to be oxidized and "dry" looking. also, last time i was at the dealer for oil change they wanted several hundred bucks to repack (not replace) my front bearings, so i figure i'd give that a try on my own since i have the 54mm socket already and i did this once on my 93 Toyota pickup. dunno if i'm going to have the rotors turned as they look decently smooth (might just replace next brake job), but might try sanding them real good with garnet paper since rotors "never warp", it's pad material accumulated unevenly
i read the threads on repacking your bearings and brake jobs because i know only enough about fixing things to get myself into trouble and i don't have a FSM. what i did not find was a list of all the stuff needed to do brakes and bearings the proper way. so far, this is my list:
BRAKES
- new front pads, have them(OEM)
- front pads retainer plates
- anti squeal shim kit
- brake anti-squeal spray adhesive epoxy stuff, have
- brake moving parts lube, have
- garnet paper or have rotors turned ($15/ea)
- brake cleaner
- basic tools
BEARINGS
- 54mm socket
- buy replacement or reuse snap rings and dust caps
- hub gasket kit (is this really necessary?)
- bearing grease (the non-domestic red grease)
- some sort of pull scale
- anti-sieze lube
is there anything missing from my list? trying to get it together before i put it in with Beno.
oh yeah, forgive my non-mechanical knowledge, but can't i just slip off my front calipers and take things apart to lube them up and re-install before i get all my gaskets to take apart the hubs/bearings, and do I have to re-bleed the brakes if i do so? i don't see where i'd be opening a brake line doing this, just using a c-clamp to compress the caliper pistons. Thanks!
i need to tear apart my front end to quiet a god-awful squealing noise i've been getting with my front brakes that happens about 80% of the time in the last couple yards of coming to a stop. i know that i have at least 1/4" of brake material showing in the middle channel of the pads, so i've ruled out pads worn out and think it's something metal to metal that's vibrating or making contact, like the pads vibrating against the retainer plates. visual inspection showed all brake parts to be oxidized and "dry" looking. also, last time i was at the dealer for oil change they wanted several hundred bucks to repack (not replace) my front bearings, so i figure i'd give that a try on my own since i have the 54mm socket already and i did this once on my 93 Toyota pickup. dunno if i'm going to have the rotors turned as they look decently smooth (might just replace next brake job), but might try sanding them real good with garnet paper since rotors "never warp", it's pad material accumulated unevenly
i read the threads on repacking your bearings and brake jobs because i know only enough about fixing things to get myself into trouble and i don't have a FSM. what i did not find was a list of all the stuff needed to do brakes and bearings the proper way. so far, this is my list:
BRAKES
- new front pads, have them(OEM)
- front pads retainer plates
- anti squeal shim kit
- brake anti-squeal spray adhesive epoxy stuff, have
- brake moving parts lube, have
- garnet paper or have rotors turned ($15/ea)
- brake cleaner
- basic tools
BEARINGS
- 54mm socket
- buy replacement or reuse snap rings and dust caps
- hub gasket kit (is this really necessary?)
- bearing grease (the non-domestic red grease)
- some sort of pull scale
- anti-sieze lube
is there anything missing from my list? trying to get it together before i put it in with Beno.
oh yeah, forgive my non-mechanical knowledge, but can't i just slip off my front calipers and take things apart to lube them up and re-install before i get all my gaskets to take apart the hubs/bearings, and do I have to re-bleed the brakes if i do so? i don't see where i'd be opening a brake line doing this, just using a c-clamp to compress the caliper pistons. Thanks!
Check all the anti squeal parts, had one of the wire springs break and rub on rim.
When you use c-clamp, only have one side apart, if both sides apart, can pop piston out on other side. Then you would need to bleed.
When you use c-clamp, only have one side apart, if both sides apart, can pop piston out on other side. Then you would need to bleed.
