Wheel Bearing LOOSE.... Again

[landtoy80]

Some time ago I replace the front axle wheel bearings. After a while, the pass. side was loose, I could move the wheel when jacked up.
I set the bearing, checked them and it was tight.

Now after a couple years the pass. side is loose again
The driver side is still tight.

Now could it be that I don't know how to tighten the pass. side or could there be a problem I don't see? Spindle, bad bearings??? I think they are Timken bearings.

 

[landtank]

use my 10lb method

 

[GXO]

Knowing how it was tightened would help. Used new nuts and lock washer? FSM instructions or landtanks 10 lb?

I had one old nut that liked to back off for some reason...new nut from CDan fixed it. I used loc-tite on the retaining nuts until I had the replacement.

 

[landtoy80]

I don't remember what method I used and don't remember if I replace the nuts either.
Heck, that was over 2 yrs ago, I don't remember what I had for diner last Thursday
Maybe -B- will remember for me, he remembers everything "OLF"

But I do recall worn nuts when I repacked a wheel bearing at some point in time, I may of just turned them over but I do remember at some point in time getting new nuts.
Guess I shouldn't of had that double frontal lobotomy

 

[Spydaz]

Well i just checked my front a pass wheel movement (the shake) while on pavement and yep, my pass side wheel moves a little, i just had my front rotors replaced and now this!!! The wheel bearings were regreased and i had the gaskets replaced (per manual) becuase you have to break them off to get the disc out.

Is this normal?? Should there be some play in the pass side wheel bearings? i watched the mech do the job and i do remeber seeing the axle freely move in and out a little, is that normal as well?? I feel that i need the mech that did the job to check everything again, what kind of damage can happen driving the truck like this for a few thousand miles?

 

[landtoy80]

I ,must of used a new washer as I found an open pack if washers and one is missing.
Looing back, I replaced both NewFields with newnewerNewfields and the pass. side was loose when I replaced them.
It got loose again and tightned it and added the washer.
Now its loose again and the driver side is good and tight.
The driver side is tight after maybe 3yrs as the pass. side keeps backing off.

If I didn't do the Landtank method last time (I may or may not have) I will try it (again???).

 

[landtoy80]

There is a grove in the washer. I guess it could be enough to make the wheel loose???
The bearings look good so I just added grease and am putting it back together.
I will do a full repace soon when I do the birfs.
This is prob not a good idea to just regrease but I will give it a try.
I hope the Valvoline grease is compatable with StayLube grease.

I don't k now if this is related to the loose bearing but I am getting a groaning sound when stoping, its just before the wheel stops turning.
It is the same wheel that is loose. Thought it was the new tires as the sound started when I installed the tires.
There is a poping noise to fron the same area, front pass side.
I guess again the wheel could bind and pop as I turn.

I will do Landtanks method if I can find.

 

[landtoy80]

I couldn't find Landtanks method but found Robbies:

"This was how we did big trucks in the 80's. We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point that the nut was loose. Hand tighten, then check to see how much the washer would move back and forth with a screw driver. IF no movement then loosen, if real easy movement not tight enough. this was a trail and error until you got good at it. when it was just right you put the lock washer on then the lock nut and tighten to what ever the man spec's were. then check to see if you could move the washer with some force, not two handed force but some more force then it took with just the jam nut. Sound hazzy but works real well. I have been using this method for over 20 years (yea I am old, but big enough to wipp most) and it is what I use in the shop today. It takes a feel and it may take a couple of times doing it but will serve well. As for what is happening I believe it is the grease at 30 F that is your problem and if you go the spring to around 25 lbs I would bet that you would be close to the specs at room temp. The way you would tell if it is too loose(before driving the truck) is with the tire and wheel on, with every thing on the ground and you shake the tire(from the top) back and forth and you have looseness, the bearing preload is not enough, do it over or you will have problems.
Junk you may want to put this in the FAQ section. later robbie


I didn't see it in the FAQ section but it should be there!

I didn't see Junks name under 80 moderator, where did he go???

 

[landtank]

my method is pretty involved but I'll post it here anyway.

torque inner nut to 10 ft lbs

spin hub back and forth

check and torque inner nut to 10 ft lbs

repeat until torquing isn't needed.

 

[Gumby]

Your toothed washer was grooved?

That's not good. That indicates that the inner part of the bearing was spinning. Either over torqued or under lubed.

does the spindle have any indication that the bearing was spinning? Heat spots or grooves?

If your lock washer was locked in to the outer and inner nuts, there is no way it should loosen up. Was the tab on the lock washer still in place or did it rotate?

I wonder if your inner bearing seal was all the way seated. If not, it could seat over time and provide the space needed without the nuts loosening .

 

[landtank]

That's not good. That indicates that the inner part of the bearing was spinning. Either over torqued or under lubed.

I've always associated this with a loose setup that allows the race to spin, unless of course you removed a seized bearing.

 

[landtoy80]

The bearings were fine. No grove or hot spot on the spindle.
The lock washer was still tabbed on the nuts.

When I had the loose bearing before I checked it several times after I redid it and all was well.

I tried Robbie's method and it works.
I preloaded the bearings, backed off, checked to see if I could move the washer.
I installed the lock washer and nut, torqued the nut but had to back off the inner nut as the washer was tight. I had to do this several times as the washer was tight.
Once I could move the washer (but still tight) I locked the tabs.
It was very easy.
I will see how it works.