98 Lexus LX470 Transmission Symptoms
Intermittent Symptoms – Can’t always be repeated, but happens most of the
time under perfect conditions.
While driving up a steep hill in 2nd gear (shifter in D) and gradually decreasing
throttle input (like when there’s a stop sign at the top of the hill), it slows as
expected.
At the point where it has slowed enough that 2nd gear is too high, and you expect
it to shift down to first so you can keep going up the hill, instead it stays locked in
2nd and will shudder, clatter, and nearly stall as the RPMs drop off. (Same exact
symptoms as if it were a stick shift and you forgot to clutch when the RPM got too
low b/c your gear/load is too high.)
Generally if I come to a complete stop, it will shift down to first, then I can
proceed up the rest of the hill normally. Occasionally I have to stop, pull shifter
into L, and then it can be driven normally in first gear, and once up to a speed
appropriate for 2nd gear I shift back into D, and drive normally again.
This happens both when the transmission is warmed up after a 2 hour drive, and
when it is cold.
Second symptom: Just to the left of the gear shift is a PWR button and a 2nd gear
start button. This is highly inconsistent and difficult to repeat, but just as a test, I
have occasionally engaged that 2nd gear start button while in Park, then as soon as
I took the shifter to D (with my foot on the brake), it immediately stalls.
Any thoughts on what is wrong? 230K miles on it. It's been completely babied for almost all of those miles.
Changed all fluid (exchanged by disconnecting cooler line) about 3 weeks ago (after problem started), old fluid was a tiny shade darker red than the new fluid... nearly an indistinguishable difference. The old fluid didn't look bad at all.
I've been floating between needs a new torque converter vs needs a new shift solenoid.
The local transmission shop (who admits they don't like to do "partial" repairs, and prefer to rebuild the whole thing and give you a 3 year warranty on it all) says they pulled codes (but haven't specified which ones) and found some metal particles in the pan when they dropped it. $2900 for a full rebuild with unlimited mile 3 year warranty.
Intermittent Symptoms – Can’t always be repeated, but happens most of the
time under perfect conditions.
While driving up a steep hill in 2nd gear (shifter in D) and gradually decreasing
throttle input (like when there’s a stop sign at the top of the hill), it slows as
expected.
At the point where it has slowed enough that 2nd gear is too high, and you expect
it to shift down to first so you can keep going up the hill, instead it stays locked in
2nd and will shudder, clatter, and nearly stall as the RPMs drop off. (Same exact
symptoms as if it were a stick shift and you forgot to clutch when the RPM got too
low b/c your gear/load is too high.)
Generally if I come to a complete stop, it will shift down to first, then I can
proceed up the rest of the hill normally. Occasionally I have to stop, pull shifter
into L, and then it can be driven normally in first gear, and once up to a speed
appropriate for 2nd gear I shift back into D, and drive normally again.
This happens both when the transmission is warmed up after a 2 hour drive, and
when it is cold.
Second symptom: Just to the left of the gear shift is a PWR button and a 2nd gear
start button. This is highly inconsistent and difficult to repeat, but just as a test, I
have occasionally engaged that 2nd gear start button while in Park, then as soon as
I took the shifter to D (with my foot on the brake), it immediately stalls.
Any thoughts on what is wrong? 230K miles on it. It's been completely babied for almost all of those miles.
Changed all fluid (exchanged by disconnecting cooler line) about 3 weeks ago (after problem started), old fluid was a tiny shade darker red than the new fluid... nearly an indistinguishable difference. The old fluid didn't look bad at all.
I've been floating between needs a new torque converter vs needs a new shift solenoid.
The local transmission shop (who admits they don't like to do "partial" repairs, and prefer to rebuild the whole thing and give you a 3 year warranty on it all) says they pulled codes (but haven't specified which ones) and found some metal particles in the pan when they dropped it. $2900 for a full rebuild with unlimited mile 3 year warranty.