What oil do you use?

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Green Hell Mustang

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I'm coming up on oil change time for the truck and she's getting closer to 250,000 on the ODO. It got me thinking if I should change the oil that I've been using since the mileage is a getting up there. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned that's lasted this long or had this kind of mileage. Pretty awesome.

Up until now I've been using Valvoline 5W-30 conventional, nothing special. I was interested in what other people have been using on their trucks that have similar mileage.

So chime in and let me know your preference.
 
Al have you sent a sample to blackstone yet :D


I use the Rotel t-6 diesel stnthetic on both trucks and have been very pleased. Little to no loss b/w 7500 mi intervals on 80. 5000 on the sbc
 
For flat tappet cams / solid lifters you want to use something high with zinc (usually ZDDP). I am going to be running either Crane Cams "breakin oil" or similar (JGB, Redline) for life of my 2FE. The main thing is to buy non-detergent and a good zinc component. You'll probably get about as many opinions as you get different responses.

:beer: R
 
I always ran rotella in my 2f, but was also not planning on keeping it forever. I'd make sure to run a zinc rich oil, or the oil of your choice + a zinc additive.

EDIT: Ran the "cheap" rotella, not the T6 synthetic.
 
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Rotella T has some zinc but they have cut back quite a bit in the last few years.

I used rotella T synthetic when I daily drove the cruiser. But have since switched to cheveron delo. Also a pretty good oil with great reviews on bob is the oil guy. And damn cheap to boot.

Check out bob is the oil guy for more than you ever wanted to know about oil.
 
I like to buck the trend. Mobil 1 full synthetic, NO additives, thin (10W30), in a flat tappet engine. Now at 16,000 miles.
 
I find that the clapped-out 2F in my rig dirtys up the oil before it really ever has a chance to break down. As a result I change it more often than is probably necessary. Dino oil saves a few bucks there. My guess is that it is better to have cheaper cleaner oil than expensive dirty oil. I also like to use the monster filter when I have one available.
 
I'm in the Rotella club too. 15w40. Came at the recommendation of my father-in-law who has been running it for years in all his vehicles (personal and company.)
It's about $16/gal at Walmart and I want to say around $60 for a 5gal bucket at BJ's.
 
Over the years I've tested many different oils in various engines. Synthetic oils usually have a smaller molecular structure and I would recommend only using in newer engines. The viscosity and temp range is therefore more broad. And if you have any leak a synthetic is gonna find it. I plan on using synthetic in my newer 4Runner. As for older engines, use conventional oils as they offer the protection needed. In my F engine I use diesel engine oil while in my chevy 350 I use a high mileage blend. If I had a 1fz I'd probably be okay using the high mileage blend in it. The most important thing that can be done in an older engine is cleaning it out. I do it with all the trucks and equipment I maintain now and afterward my oil is always clean. I remove the oil pan and clean all the crud out then do one or two quick oil changes to remove as much crud throughout the engine as possible. I've heard of some folks using ATF or Marvel Mystery to do this but I've had fine results using cheap fresh oil. None of my engines have turned the oil black for 3000 miles.
 
BS, the 7.3 in black betty definitely turned the oil black :flipoff2:
 
Black betty didn't have a 7.3 nor did I take off the oil pan and clean that one. Wish I did. Remember when she choked a little over Loveland Pass and puffed out some nice black smoke? I do admit diesel engines are a different beast and darken the oil more than gasoline engines, but I still check the oil using clean white paper to check clarity. Now every vehicle I own and every machine I maintain at work is maintained on the highest level possible. I love my job. The owner is happy to pay for cleanliness and proper maintenance.
 
I love my job. The owner is happy to pay for cleanliness and proper maintenance.

You're lucky - I doubt all pot farmers are like that ;-)
 
Over the years I've tested many different oils in various engines. Synthetic oils usually have a smaller molecular structure and I would recommend only using in newer engines. The viscosity and temp range is therefore more broad. And if you have any leak a synthetic is gonna find it. I plan on using synthetic in my newer 4Runner. As for older engines, use conventional oils as they offer the protection needed. In my F engine I use diesel engine oil while in my chevy 350 I use a high mileage blend. If I had a 1fz I'd probably be okay using the high mileage blend in it. The most important thing that can be done in an older engine is cleaning it out. I do it with all the trucks and equipment I maintain now and afterward my oil is always clean. I remove the oil pan and clean all the crud out then do one or two quick oil changes to remove as much crud throughout the engine as possible. I've heard of some folks using ATF or Marvel Mystery to do this but I've had fine results using cheap fresh oil. None of my engines have turned the oil black for 3000 miles.

Sadly I hadn't even thought about taking the pan off the truck. That's a really good point. I'm sure it needs to be cleaned out. Actually the whole motor needs to be gone through; gaskets replaced and what not. I'm sure the tops of the pistons match the bottom of the pan right now.
 
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