What is this grease?

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In the uk you can only buy OEM from the dealers, but there is a company that imports parts which advertised the bearing as OEM, they will either come with toyota on or the manufacterer who are the makers of the original parts(so they say). They came in a NTN box and look good quality, the seal I can only get from the dealers which is $70.
Is NTN the maker for 100's factory wheel bearings?

I found this ***** *** **6849A USA H* partial markings on the large wheel bearing I just pulled. I believe it's a TIMKEM JLM 506849A USA H*. Which is offered by NSK Website home-HONGKONG Bond NSKFAG Bearing Co.,Limited
01 LX470 PS wheel bearings 4-4-16 JLM 506849A  (111).webp
 
Yes, Timkem was used OEM. We (Cruiser Outfitters) offer a wheel bearing overhaul kit for the 100 Series. Includes inner/outer Timken wheel bearings, NOK Japanee (OEM) seal, thrust washer, star washer, gaskets, etc.
 
Yes, Timkem was used OEM. We (Cruiser Outfitters) offer a wheel bearing overhaul kit for the 100 Series. Includes inner/outer Timken wheel bearings, NOK Japanee (OEM) seal, thrust washer, star washer, gaskets, etc.
I recall, some time ago seeing you putting together a kit. My LX bearings look reusable at this time. But I do plan on replacing my LC wheel bearings on next service. For future reference, how much with shipping to zip 80121 for the complete kit?
 
I recall, some time ago seeing you putting together a kit. My LX bearings look reusable at this time. But I do plan on replacing my LC wheel bearings on next service. For future reference, how much with shipping to zip 80121 for the complete kit?

Part# FAWB9807T - $80
Timken Bearings (OEM Toyota Supplier)
(Fits 98'-07' UZJ100 & LX470, also includes thrust washer)
Cruiser Outfitters


I'm away from the shop with no real way to estimate shipping but if guess $15 for a single or pair of kits.
 
After 10k miles, I have to replace front rotors and pads and afraid to tackle it because so many parts to take off.
Take pictures, have the FSM for your year and use multiple small containers to hold nuts, bolts and parts. Grouped separately & in order they come off. Service wheel bearings at same time.
 
My main concern is Specific Torque on the "Adjusting Nut". FSM doesn't say the torque (Lock Nut 47 ft.lbf). Few Youtube videos say hand tight all it needs. Since my wife is the one driving, it would be very bad if wheel get loose.
 
My main concern is Specific Torque on the "Adjusting Nut". FSM doesn't say the torque (Lock Nut 47 ft.lbf). Few Youtube videos say hand tight all it needs. Since my wife is the one driving, it would be very bad if wheel get loose.
FSM does state.

It gives a starting torque on adjusting nut. Then it goes on to say: set pre-load 9.5 to 15lb. This is very important, as most set the adjusting nut to loose. Loose will cause chatter and scoring of claw washer.

I've been experiment with each wheel bearing service I've done. Increasing pre load each time. I'm now up to ~15lb, using a fish scale. Import to follow FSM to the letter, read very carefully. Pull fish scale at exact 90 deg angle just as it is shown, take at least three readings. Recheck once you torque lock nut down. I put adjusting nuts flat side in, most put locking nut flat side out, as it makes bite from socket better. The final thing is to check snap ring gap, very very important. If to wide, get thicker snap ring. I take reading of snap ring to hub flange gap while tearing down. Then I ask parts guy to get some in stock, in the range I may need. I think @cruiseroutfit will send you a mix of snap rings. Snap ring is not reusable according to FSM. I reuse them, but bent tight and inspect, if not tight and square I don't reuse.

I reuse flange nuts, by putting a dab of locktight on threads. I also put marine grease on bottom of the five studs where they penetrate hub where flange attaches (stop water/rust) & on cone washers, make next service easier
 
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To be honest I wouldn't know who toyota use as the OEM supplier, I bought these bearings as a kit, it was advertised as a genuine bearing set with a aftermarket seal. I was told the bearings are good but avoid using the seal due to issues with the stub axle. The company that recommended them build cruisers for overlanding so was happy to use these bearings just from there say so.
If Timken are the OEM then that would be good news as I can get them cheaper than the NTN I bought. Timken do there own bearing grease so I might buy a tin of this with the bearings next time..
 
Here's IMO old & high millage factory lithium soap base synthetic #1. It looks as if axle bushing & bearing had never been regressed.

Bearing looking in surprisingly good condition. Bushing has some scoring from contaminates IMHO, but is serviceable. I draw from this that the factory grease will hold up long-term. Seal(s) breaking down is from excessive vibration and movement, allowing in contaminates. This IMHO is from three factors (In order of affecting importance); Improper preload (loose wheel bearings), Wide snap ring gap coupled with Improper wheel/tire balance.

Axle Bearing & Bushing and seal in kunckle 3.webp
 
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