What is this grease?

[2001LC]

I'm servicing wheel bearings, I could not find any records of these ever being done before. As I pull apart I'm looking for any clues that they have been service at some time in the pasted by PO.

Does anyone recognize this grease: type, brand, manufacture anything?

I don't think it's factory grease, but then I've never been the first to service any 100's bearings.

 

[Julian Stead]

Looks like multi purpose lithium grease which is used in wheel bearings.

 

[2001LC]

So could have come from anywhere Dealer or corner shop I suppose.

Did factory use same color?

 

[Julian Stead]

Yeah, you can buy this stuff anywhere. Not sure what toyota used in the factory, like yourself I wasn't the first person to grease the wheel bearings in mine, but mine also had multi purpose grease that came out, so thats what I put back in.

 

[2001LC]

I've been using M1 or Amsoil so long, I forgot what others looked like.

 

[Julian Stead]

I am changing the wheel bearings in the front on every regrease, with a few swings off a hammer you can change them after you get the hubs off to regrease. I can get the bearings cheaper than the seal so thought why not.

 

[bluecruiser]

The original grease looks like what is pictured. The stuff installed at the factory...kind of a unique color in comparison to other types that shops typically use.

 

[2001LC]

Interesting...^

 

[2001LC]

I am changing the wheel bearings in the front on every regrease, with a few swings off a hammer you can change them after you get the hubs off to regrease. I can get the bearings cheaper than the seal so thought why not.

OEM bearings?

 

[duggy]

I had the same color come out of my 80 axles when I was tearing into it.

 

[Julian Stead]

In the uk you can only buy OEM from the dealers, but there is a company that imports parts which advertised the bearing as OEM, they will either come with toyota on or the manufacterer who are the makers of the original parts(so they say). They came in a NTN box and look good quality, the seal I can only get from the dealers which is $70.

 

[Julian Stead]

Just checked my grease tin, it says multi purpose ep/lithium based. Mine is oem, but from a different manufacturer which obviously isn't made by them, it looks the same as your grease.

Toyota recommend ngli 2.

 

[2001LC]

That's a pricy seal. My cost from Dealer is ~$24 per side, Inner & outer wheel bearings with races ~$87.

 

[PADDO]

[QUOTE="Julian Stead, post: 10295750, member: 114530" the seal I can only get from the dealers which is $70.[/QUOTE]
You obviously know your way around vehicles, cross referencing parts etc but have you tried National (Federal Mogul) 710456 oil seals? They are an equivalent to OE and cost $15? each here.

 

[Julian Stead]

Yes it was very expensive. I live in rip off britain so I am used to it. I do try and source my parts from the cheapest place possible, from the USA at times, which is where I got my timing belt from, but not worth it on some items due to import charges. The only reason I went to the dealers is a good landcruiser specialist that has helped me out said to get OEM as he had a bad experience with a customers truck with a aftermarket as it marked the stub axle..

 

[Julian Stead]

[QUOTE="Julian Stead, post: 10295750, member: 114530" the seal I can only get from the dealers which is $70.

You obviously know your way around vehicles, cross referencing parts etc but have you tried National (Federal Mogul) 710456 oil seals? They are an equivalent to OE and cost $15? each here.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, I have found that there is a federal mogul head office in the uk, I will give them a ring to see if they sell these seals in the uk. If you have used them with no issues then I will give them a try next time.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Get the kit from @cruiseroutfit , everything you need in one box. Well, two boxes for both sides . . .

 

[abuck99]

I have a grease in my shop that looks similar. It's fancy Swiss stuff made by Motorex it's a calcium soap grease- long life waterproof ...

FETT 2000

 

[LonghornLX]

Ha just finished the same service replacing bearings burned out due to the last SOB tightening the spindle nuts to the point it rounded out my socket when trying to loosen them.

I had the same grease in the recesses of the hub. It was mixed with the grease that OVER Tightener used.

Replaced with Mobile 1 synthetic bearing grease so it's all red now.

 

[2001LC]

The original grease looks like what is pictured. The stuff installed at the factory...kind of a unique color in comparison to other types that shops typically use.

Possible. Interesting grease in cap looks older, and doesn't quite match what is in hub cavity.

Just checked my grease tin, it says multi purpose ep/lithium based. Mine is oem, but from a different manufacturer which obviously isn't made by them, it looks the same as your grease.

Toyota recommend ngli 2.

"EP" (EXTREME PRESSURE) EXTREME PRESSURE LITHIUM GREASE | Welcome to Lubricating Specialties Company is not a chassis grease, and not recommended for our bearings.
I use NLGI GC-LB #2 Request Rejected. Wheel bearing should always state "wheel bearing" and/or "chassis" grease.

I have a grease in my shop that looks similar. It's fancy Swiss stuff made by Motorex it's a calcium soap grease- long life waterproof ...

FETT 2000

View attachment 1236540

Your color looks a little more yellow then what's in my hub, but very close to this exposed grease in cap.

Ha just finished the same service replacing bearings burned out due to the last SOB tightening the spindle nuts to the point it rounded out my socket when trying to loosen them.

I had the same grease in the recesses of the hub. It was mixed with the grease that OVER Tightener used.

Replaced with Mobile 1 synthetic bearing grease so it's all red now.

If locking nut is turned flat side in, leaving round side out it makes torque on or off more difficult. With round side out, socket slips off. If lock ring is still bent or hung-up on lock nut it makes removal very tough.
How did claw washer look, any scoring? How about bearings and spindle?

I found more damage from loose than tight. This claw washer scoring/grooving is believed from chatter caused by loose or lite preload.
Over the years I've been experimenting with higher and higher pre-load on bearings. I'm finding Claw washer, bearing & spindle are looking better. I'm now up to FSM limit ~15lb on fish scale. Risky I suppose, as my scale is not the greatest (cheepo).