What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (24 Viewers)

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Best low dollar mod I've done thus far.......... thanks for the heads up.
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60k oil and fluid change. Diffs, Trans, and Xfer case all went to Amsoil. Engine gets Quaker State 0w20 full synthetic now (I believe the last sample was probably Toyota motor oil as it was changed when I bought the vehicle from the dealer). I wasn't going to send another sample to Blackstone but since more than half my mileage was towing (3500/6200) and another 1/3 was heavy city I wanted to see how well it had held up. I can see why Toyota says it's OK to go 10k between oil changes for normal suburban/highway driving.

Now that I have a good baseline I probably won't test again unless I notice a change in oil consumption or another sign that concerns me. It's interesting but I can't continually justify $38 per test (including the TBN).

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bobistheoilguy.com has a VOA for supposedly the same oil as well.
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60k oil and fluid change. Diffs, Trans, and Xfer case all went to Amsoil. Engine gets Quaker State 0w20 full synthetic now (I believe the last sample was probably Toyota motor oil as it was changed when I bought the vehicle from the dealer). I wasn't going to send another sample to Blackstone but since more than half my mileage was towing (3500/6200) and another 1/3 was heavy city I wanted to see how well it had held up. I can see why Toyota says it's OK to go 10k between oil changes for normal suburban/highway driving.

Now that I have a good baseline I probably won't test again unless I notice a change in oil consumption or another sign that concerns me. It's interesting but I can't continually justify $38 per test (including the TBN).

View attachment 1360926

bobistheoilguy.com has a VOA for supposedly the same oil as well.
View attachment 1360929

Thanks for posting. Good info - I assume this 60k change service for the diffs, trans, and transfer cases were the first time the fluid were changed out, right?
How much did the dealer/shop charge for these changes?
 
I assume this was the first full fluid swap as well, based on the CarFax and Toyota Owners history. I purchased the vehicle @ 49k miles.

The fluid cost about $300, including a full 16 quarts of A/T fluid since I wanted to do a full fluid flush. IIRC all the crush washers cost a total of about $6 plus shipping. I do have some fluid left but I thought that would happen and I didn't want to run short.

My mechanic charged me $400 for the oil and filter change, tire rotation, transfer case flush, and differentials changes. He also dropped the truck off at the local Toyota dealer, who charged $125 for the full transmission flush since my mechanic didn't have the right equipment to do it.

As much as I like my mechanic, in hindsight I would probably just take it to the dealer to do the full fluid change in the future so it would be done in one trip. (He's 3 blocks away from me; the dealer is a 25-30 minute drive).
 
Crazy bright for little back up bulbs!
Nice fatty on the wall.
 
Picked up some Method NV's on Black Friday - 18x9 w/ 25mm offset.

Before, you can see how the OEM wheels line up about 1" or so inward. After, wheels are more flush.

There's a little rubbing on full lock, but only really noticeable in reverse - this will be resolved on the 16th when Slee mounts a new bumper.

Before:
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After:
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20161203_143200.jpg
 
Just changed out the Michelin P rated tires that came on our 2015, been running them for a year but really need something better for the snow. So went with the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 in a 285/65/18. Gotta say, thrilled with the look and improved handling. This is how the rig ought to be sold. So much more solid on the road, less lean, tracks better. Overall feels much more grounded... had some increased hum at 80 mph when testing things out today but unless I'm crossing the state 75mph is usually max. Running 42psi x 4 ( Thx Gaijin )
 
Sitting at 118k so I got the 120k service at ACC and decided to do some preventive fixes to avoid trips to the shop for the next 120k. Water pump was leaking a little so that was replaced. Knowing that the radiator leak and starter are potential weak points, I replaced both. And, while in there, I got the Eaton electric rear locker put in. Looking forward to putting that to use one day when I find the need.

Guys at ACC did fantastic work as usual.

Next up, tires. Most likely going with 34 - 10 1/2 17 KO2's with spacers after seeing Cody's setup in Ouray. Those will come in the next month or two. It's all coming together!
 
Picked up some Method NV's on Black Friday - 18x9 w/ 25mm offset.

Before, you can see how the OEM wheels line up about 1" or so inward. After, wheels are more flush.

There's a little rubbing on full lock, but only really noticeable in reverse - this will be resolved on the 16th when Slee mounts a new bumper.

Before:
View attachment 1361077

After:
View attachment 1361078

View attachment 1361079

Are you ordering the newest slightly redesigned ARB front bumper?
 
Are you ordering the newest slightly redesigned ARB front bumper?
Sticking with the tried and true deluxe bar. Not even sure if the Summit is backwards compatible?
 
Sticking with the tried and true deluxe bar. Not even sure if the Summit is backwards compatible?

I will call Christo to investigate because looking at the Summit, it actually looks to be a touch nicer bar and will allow recessing the winch control box. The angles seems slightly better as well and the bar appears to not stick out as much, obviously hard to tell from a photo. The front where the bumper gets cut is not that much different than a '14-15MY.
 
Wired up a National Luna LED light in the cargo space. Kudos to @ethernectar for the inspiration and installation tips.

The light is screwed into the tailgate panel and the wiring goes through a hole I drilled into the small access panel. I ran the wire around the passenger side of the tailgate inside the panel and then slipped it into the passenger-side wall near the top-right of the rear of the truck (from the view in the photo. From there, I fished the wire down through the side paneling to the spare jack area. Finally, there's another segment of wire from the spare jack cubby-hole to a fuse box I have mounted on the underside of a drawer side panel. It took about 1.5 hours and I had to get out the fishing tape.



Source: National Luna 27 LED Light Aluminum Chassis Hard Mount Clear Lens
 
Wired up a National Luna LED light in the cargo space. Kudos to @ethernectar for the inspiration and installation tips.

The light is screwed into the tailgate panel and the wiring goes through a hole I drilled into the small access panel. I ran the wire around the passenger side of the tailgate inside the panel and then slipped it into the passenger-side wall near the top-right of the rear of the truck (from the view in the photo. From there, I fished the wire down through the side paneling to the spare jack area. Finally, there's another segment of wire from the spare jack cubby-hole to a fuse box I have mounted on the underside of a drawer side panel. It took about 1.5 hours and I had to get out the fishing tape.



Source: National Luna 27 LED Light Aluminum Chassis Hard Mount Clear Lens

I'm curious where you found the velcro zip bags stuck to your drawers.
Great idea for small, quick-access doodads. Any clues on those?
 

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