- Thread starter
- #21
I thought 1975 and earlier was the cut off year for smog equipt. in Calif????
When did it change?
When did it change?
What do ya think Weber, Holley or stock Carb
- Thread starter hidesertfj40
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It didn't change....it is still 1975 and earlier for smog exempt. I just had my carb rebuilt by Mark A. at Mark's Offroad in Burbank. Quality, awesome carb rebuild....highly recommended. Call him at his shop in the afternoons (he doesn't do email).
Offenhauser and Edelbrock
I worked through the specs on the F engine. I found that the system will support up to about 700 cfm in carboration.
So, I got a four barrel Offenhauser manifold and then an Edelbrocck 650 CFM Carburetor. I tested this match up with several sets of jets and rods right off the shelf. My engine passed emissions when it was not required to do so, at a pace well past new vehicle standards. I have some conficence. I run "power" set ups for the off road work, and it is real simple to switch them over to more efficent "street" set up rods/jets after returning to travel mode.
I worked through the specs on the F engine. I found that the system will support up to about 700 cfm in carboration.
So, I got a four barrel Offenhauser manifold and then an Edelbrocck 650 CFM Carburetor. I tested this match up with several sets of jets and rods right off the shelf. My engine passed emissions when it was not required to do so, at a pace well past new vehicle standards. I have some conficence. I run "power" set ups for the off road work, and it is real simple to switch them over to more efficent "street" set up rods/jets after returning to travel mode.
Downey
SILVER Star
Yep, and the Ford 2 barrel is so identical to the Holley 350 that the sealed baffle kit and chimney both fit the Ford carb. And I bet a Reman Ford is a whole lot cheaper at the parts store than a new/used/rebuilt Holley.
- Thread starter
- #26
did it pass Calif. smog?
how much for that set-up?
how much for that set-up?
Downey
SILVER Star
Not sure if you're talking Offy/Edelbrock/Holley/Ford (everytjing above), but nuttin but a factory carb is Calif legal on a 1976-newer.
Go stock....go to Mark A. He'll rebuilt a carb to run "like butter" for about $250.
I am currently running a Weber 38/38. I also have the original Carb, complete with a fresh rebuild. The Weber works awesome. However, the automatic choke is a little slow so it takes about 5 seconds of turnover before she fires (when is been sitting in the garage for a couple weeks).
Josh
Josh
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
For a stock F/2F I would not run anythinbg other than a later model Aisan carb.... this is not based on one rig, but dozens of my own and customers. I will not install a holly 2 bbl or a rochester 2bbl on these engines. You can nit give me either of those carbs for that matter.
And I am not selling carbs or conversion kits either, my opinion is based on working on these rigs and using them. Not on making a buck buy selling one setup or another.
The later model Aisan will happily run at an angle you can get your rig to stay on its feet at... WITHOUT mods.
It will run at any tempurature you will ever encounter and need no "routine" tuning over it's life. and you do not have to monky rig linkages or get stuck with electric chokes.
It will flow all the air that a stock 2F can use, and then some.
Also.... be careful when someone tells you that "Part "X" will pas smog testing..." Smog testing is done to state regs, not federal... it is different everywhere... a mod may be fine one place and get laughed out of the testing station at another. A stock carb will pass everywhere. The others will not.
Said it before, and I'll stand by it... throw your Holly 2bbls in the weeds... and then throw rocks at it... or Rochester 2bbls.
Mark...
And I am not selling carbs or conversion kits either, my opinion is based on working on these rigs and using them. Not on making a buck buy selling one setup or another.
The later model Aisan will happily run at an angle you can get your rig to stay on its feet at... WITHOUT mods.
It will run at any tempurature you will ever encounter and need no "routine" tuning over it's life. and you do not have to monky rig linkages or get stuck with electric chokes.
It will flow all the air that a stock 2F can use, and then some.
Also.... be careful when someone tells you that "Part "X" will pas smog testing..." Smog testing is done to state regs, not federal... it is different everywhere... a mod may be fine one place and get laughed out of the testing station at another. A stock carb will pass everywhere. The others will not.
Said it before, and I'll stand by it... throw your Holly 2bbls in the weeds... and then throw rocks at it... or Rochester 2bbls.
Mark...
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So here is the Monkey wrench. What about a TBI fule injection conversion?
I had the 38/38 webber on my last rig. It worked great but boy did that sucker pour fuel into the motor. The asin was much less thirsty.
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As a clear answer: the best overall carb would be a 75-77 US carb, desmogged & tuned. The 78 carb is a little smaller, so might be a limiting factor on top of an engine w/ headers.
If the vehicle must pass californika smog, then a stock appearing 1978 carb is the only choice. note that there are several different carbs used in 78 for FJ40, 55, 49-state, cali, hi-altitude...
- Thread starter
- #34
I think I'll got stock carb for now. Does anyone know of anyone that's got one for sale?
I have a 78 that could be used as a core for a rebuild. PM me if interested.
I've got a core in the garage too, but I don't know the year on it. PM me if you're interested and I'll dig it out and send some pics to you....
I think you'll be happy with stock. I personally ran a Weber 38/38 while Jim C. rebuilt my original Aisin. While the Weber gave me no probs, it sure is nice having a correctly built stock carb.
Point is, if you do go stock, invest in Jim C or any of these other knowledgeable dudes to get you going right.
Point is, if you do go stock, invest in Jim C or any of these other knowledgeable dudes to get you going right.
Downey
SILVER Star
Mark W., If you've had that much success with factory carbs, then by all means you should advocate sticking with what works. Here's my history with Landcruiser carburetion:
(a) During the 1960,70, and a good chunk of the 80's Toyota was not very good at building carburetors, and they pratically admittrd it. The Toyota Dealerships quit rebuilding them because they would not hold a rebuild. They would sell you a new carb, but not rebuild yours. If they rebuilt yours and it failed a few days or weeks later, you became a "come-back", they got to rebuild the carb again for free.
(b) During those early years, the originators of MAF were selling Rochester carbs for Landcruisers that were vented directly to the atmosphere---that DOES NOT work in off road terrain!!!
(c) During those early years we thought the better option might be a Holley carb since we were not impressed with the stock carb or Rochester choice. In the early days of Holley conversions all of the trick off road stuff had not been invented yet for the Holleys, consequently Holley users were somewhat disappointed in off road terrain. As the trick off road upgrades became available for Holleys, too many people didn't know about the upgrades, so were still disappointed with their Holley, and bad mouthing Holleys up and down the block. That condition still exist today.
(d) Today what I read on MUD is (1) pratically all of you need your factory carb rebuilt (what's new),(2) JimC and MarkA have become carburetor rebuild Gods,(3) and some of you actually have some success with your rebuilt factory carbs.
The moral of this story actually is; don't bad mouth a Holley if you haven't driven a fully tricked-out Holley. If you have, and still wish to bad mouth them, be my guest!!!
(a) During the 1960,70, and a good chunk of the 80's Toyota was not very good at building carburetors, and they pratically admittrd it. The Toyota Dealerships quit rebuilding them because they would not hold a rebuild. They would sell you a new carb, but not rebuild yours. If they rebuilt yours and it failed a few days or weeks later, you became a "come-back", they got to rebuild the carb again for free.
(b) During those early years, the originators of MAF were selling Rochester carbs for Landcruisers that were vented directly to the atmosphere---that DOES NOT work in off road terrain!!!
(c) During those early years we thought the better option might be a Holley carb since we were not impressed with the stock carb or Rochester choice. In the early days of Holley conversions all of the trick off road stuff had not been invented yet for the Holleys, consequently Holley users were somewhat disappointed in off road terrain. As the trick off road upgrades became available for Holleys, too many people didn't know about the upgrades, so were still disappointed with their Holley, and bad mouthing Holleys up and down the block. That condition still exist today.
(d) Today what I read on MUD is (1) pratically all of you need your factory carb rebuilt (what's new),(2) JimC and MarkA have become carburetor rebuild Gods,(3) and some of you actually have some success with your rebuilt factory carbs.
The moral of this story actually is; don't bad mouth a Holley if you haven't driven a fully tricked-out Holley. If you have, and still wish to bad mouth them, be my guest!!!
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I have been running a Weber on my 73 FJ-40 for over 20 years and its works Great, I have also Rebuilt the stock carbs on my 45 and my sons 40 and a couple of buddies without any problems. In fact I have been giving My kid a hard time about getting out in the shop and rebuilding a spare card we have just for the learning experance. Why dont you just rebuild the one you have yourself ???? Its not that hard and anyone owning a Cruiser is going to have to deal with it someday.
So the "original?" single barrel Rochester that I just found for my F powered rig is a poor choice if I want to do any hills or off camber stuff?
I though it was the opposite, that's why I tried to find one.
