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Get some good sawzall blades on hand for the lca bushings, me and @Quantumkiwi both had a seized cam on the passenger front. The 255s on the stock wheels should be pretty darn close to the same spacing from the uca as 285s on the 80 wheelsSwapped squeaky UCA’s for stock UCA’s
and the dang ball joint bushings are smoked.
Grr
now 285/75’s vs 255/85s to gain some UCA clearance, they’re almost exactly the same
Next step LCA bushings (like everyone else) in the pursuit of solving the squirrelly wander
View attachment 2870779View attachment 2870778
Seems early for LCA bushings...well at lest in miles. It's been 8-9 years so maybe but less than 50k miles I betSwapped squeaky UCA’s for stock UCA’s
and the dang ball joint bushings are smoked.
Grr
now 285/75’s vs 255/85s to gain some UCA clearance, they’re almost exactly the same
Next step LCA bushings (like everyone else) in the pursuit of solving the squirrelly wander
Just to add on, the panhard bar mounts probably should be raised on axle side and lowered on the frame side. The stock panhard mounts won’t let you get the proper angle even with an adjustable panhardGrant,
You might want to do the rear LCA, UCA and the Panhard rod bushings all at once in order to totally eliminate the rear end squirlyness. I know the cost of OEM bushings are no joke. I don't pay a whole bunch of attention to the UCAs due them not influencing the rear axle as much as worn LCA bushings do. The rear axle will experience torque steer when they're really worn and of course, they'll try to grab the ruts on asphalt.
But, one thing to keep in mind and that is the total cost of OEM bushings + effort to swap them out = often comes close to new beefy units loaded with OEM or similar bushings. That's where I was with the LCA bushings swap on the 80; the #s favored getting replacement LCAs from OZ vs swapping them out. Bonus of going this way is the LCAs are now MUCHO BEEF compared to my fortified but slightly bent original LCAs.
Just a random thought!
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Just to add on, the panhard bar mounts probably should be raised on axle side and lowered on the frame side. The stock panhard mounts won’t let you get the proper angle even with an adjustable panhardView attachment 2872583
I did this for the rear of mine and it made such a huge difference in ride quality.
Previously felt like the rear was moving several inches to the side each time I went over a small bump (like a bridge.)
No longer.
Also recommend the Eimkeith stuff.
4x4?It’s not a Toyota but this was rescued today. View attachment 2873516View attachment 2873517from the guys yard to running and driving in two hours. 1984 k30 350/4 speed
View attachment 2873518
It’s not mine (yet)
Yep! seems like everything works, blower motor probably full of rodent debris and ac probably needs a charge but the cruise control and all the other things work4x4?
Nice findYep! seems like everything works, blower motor probably full of rodent debris and ac probably needs a charge but the cruise control and all the other things work View attachment 2873593View attachment 2873594
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WOOOOOWW!!!It’s not a Toyota but this was rescued today. View attachment 2873516View attachment 2873517from the guys yard to running and driving in two hours. 1984 k30 350/4 speed
View attachment 2873518
It’s not mine (yet)
Thanks, Steve! Yep I figured the lowers were done when I found the 2nd set in with the extra rear coils when I swapped them out. I'll look at the uppersGrant,
If I remember correctly the rear lowers were upgraded (one of the last part to be) and the pan hard is the adjustable unit from Sonoran. I would suspect the upper driver side as I only replaced one upper, I believe the passenger side.
I'm kind of curious what is up with your location: Patagonia, AZ. I thought you and the wife were retiring to northern NM. And what is the story with you and OLC4X4?Ali doing some work…
Happy NY HDC!!