What did you work on tonight? (2 Viewers)

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Before and after
Measures out as 3/4” lower.
Drives WAY better, so much less body roll.
Sure would like to know what these coils are
 
Thanks @5speed addict fir the nudge to swap these springs. Left is the Fj80 that was on it, right are what we put in. @lurch these were in an OME box labeled OME860 X, they look like a factory Toyota coil but no markings as the plasticoat covering is flaking off.
The stock springs probably got recycled many years ago, the OME box would have been for the springs that replaced Sl33p3's fj80 stock springs. So I'd bet those are OME891 springs for the 3rd gen 4R that I got once I upgraded the rear bumper to the home-brew bumper I ran for 6+ years. Also those are progressive which makes sense with them being OME.
I swap to the 80n springs once I got the 4x4labs bumper. It gave me a better ride stance once loaded for overlanding...shrug I don't think you carry that much junk with you most of the time.

Body sway you say....if there was something you could put back on that was bar shaped and would help with sway.....you know like a new to you "bar" sway thingy you got at u-Pull that tied the axel to the frame....just spit balling here.....glad the spring worked out;);):rofl:
 
Body sway you say....if there was something you could put back on that was bar shaped and would help with sway.....you know like a new to you "bar" sway thingy you got at u-Pull that tied the axel to the frame....just spit balling here.....glad the spring worked out;);):rofl:
Thank you Steve this clears things up! I estimate I have about 250lbs of gear and crap, so ya not loaded out for two weeks on the trail. Yep I did put a u-pull no-sway thingy on! Much improvement
 
Thank you Steve this clears things up! I estimate I have about 250lbs of gear and crap, so ya not loaded out for two weeks on the trail. Yep I did put a u-pull no-sway thingy on! Much improvement
ahh good, did you mess with changing out the links on the sway? It seems like longer links would help the angles during articulation.
 
Radiator day. It's not always easy when working on old junk. Pics of my old thermostat. I don't think they are supposed to look like this. It's an OEM t-stat. Second, one of the holes was stripped on the thermostat housing/intake manifold. At least it was an easy recoil fix.

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Radiator day. It's not always easy when working on old junk. Pics of my old thermostat. I don't think they are supposed to look like this. It's an OEM t-stat. Second, one of the holes was stripped on the thermostat housing/intake manifold. At least it was an easy recoil fix.

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That looks nasty!
 
Radiator day. It's not always easy when working on old junk. Pics of my old thermostat. I don't think they are supposed to look like this. It's an OEM t-stat. Second, one of the holes was stripped on the thermostat housing/intake manifold. At least it was an easy recoil fix.

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Where did that chunk of rubber come from, that’s stuck in the thermostat?
 
I think it's the wax from the capsule that makes it work. It feels like silicon.
 
Put some lighting up in the garage (after 20 years) and started tearing the 4Runner down to do bushings, only to find out I probably need a press. Darn!

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Not sure if the holes are supposed to be there, but it was cracked all the way around, and moved 15-25 degrees under pressure from a screwdriver.
 
Put some lighting up in the garage (after 20 years) and started tearing the 4Runner down to do bushings, only to find out I probably need a press. Darn!

wKS1QJB.jpg

HGZhb98.jpg


Not sure if the holes are supposed to be there, but it was cracked all the way around, and moved 15-25 degrees under pressure from a screwdriver.
You can probably do these with the c clamp style bushing/ball joint press and the sleeve kit from autozone if you cant get access to a press.
 
Put some lighting up in the garage (after 20 years) and started tearing the 4Runner down to do bushings, only to find out I probably need a press. Darn!

wKS1QJB.jpg

HGZhb98.jpg


Not sure if the holes are supposed to be there, but it was cracked all the way around, and moved 15-25 degrees under pressure from a screwdriver.

Those holes are suppose to be there and their orientation is important. Here's the TSB for 80 series rear lower arms:

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New brake master cylinder. I h8 bleeding brakes.

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And who the hell is hoarding brake boosters? I went to the boneyard last week and every truck was missing the boosters. First it's diffs. Now boosters. WTF?
 
And who the hell is hoarding brake boosters? I went to the boneyard last week and every truck was missing the boosters. First it's diffs. Now boosters. WTF?
When I was considering getting a new booster, a new one was at least 600 buckaroos.
It'd make a lot a sense for people to be grabbing them up.
 
And who the hell is hoarding brake boosters? I went to the boneyard last week and every truck was missing the boosters. First it's diffs. Now boosters. WTF?
Good to know. I need a booster for a low budget project I am working. I guess I won’t look there.
 
Swapped squeaky UCA’s for stock UCA’s
and the dang ball joint bushings are smoked.
Grr
now 285/75’s vs 255/85s to gain some UCA clearance, they’re almost exactly the same🤔
Next step LCA bushings (like everyone else) in the pursuit of solving the squirrelly wander

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