I was about to throw them on but noticed a lot of weights on two of the five wheels.
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What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend? (13 Viewers)
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Unless you all think this is acceptable. Two out of the 5 have 8+ oz of weight.
The other 3 look like this.
The other 3 look like this.
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Well took the weights off and threw them in the truck to get rotated 180* and rebalanced. Also my daughter approves the new 37s 
8 ounces on a 37 isn't bad IMO. I had some Toyo AT2s that were over 16 ounces out in a 285/75/17 (34") tire. Those were the best numbers we could get on brand new tires using a roadforce machine and rotating as the machine recommended. At 16 ounces there's basically no chance of ever getting a smooth highway ride even if they balance out to zero. Discount tire worked with me to ultimately send them back to Toyo and swap out for some Cooper tires after we tried 7 or so tires and couldn't get a set that balanced. However, those were much smaller tires. I think 8 ounces out of balance on a 37 would be more like 4 ounces on a 34" tire. I would be pretty happy with that outcome assuming they run down the road smoothly.
As a reference - I can't recall exactly as it's been about 15 years, but my 39" bias ply TSLs on my FJ40 called for 50 ounces or something like that. I ended up putting about 40 golf balls in each tire and it made it at least sort of drivable on the highway. Makes funny sounds especially at the right speed where the balls will rotate up and then fall onto the wheels. I'd expect a lot better from modern radial tires. But those TSLs aren't that far off in weight at 99lbs vs about 85lbs for an E rated 37.
As a reference - I can't recall exactly as it's been about 15 years, but my 39" bias ply TSLs on my FJ40 called for 50 ounces or something like that. I ended up putting about 40 golf balls in each tire and it made it at least sort of drivable on the highway. Makes funny sounds especially at the right speed where the balls will rotate up and then fall onto the wheels. I'd expect a lot better from modern radial tires. But those TSLs aren't that far off in weight at 99lbs vs about 85lbs for an E rated 37.
Dude no effing way!!! 50 oz is insane.
Well, I dropped them off and they said they got them better. But the manager gave me an attitude when I dropped them off. I have never had a bad experience with management from Discount Tire before. He even told me I wasn't in the system. May need to find a new tire shop in this area.
Those older bias ply mud tires are pretty terrible. They're one step away from a AG tire. I don't think they were ever really intended to be driven on the road. I wouldn't do it on purpose unless it's a pretty short distance. I'm not sure the balance really matters that much anyway because they're so egg shaped and they flat spot if they're parked for any length of time so they don't really ever run very smoothly. The saving grace for them is that they can take a ton of abuse and the bias ply sidewalls held up to everything I could throw at em. I was losing 1-2 tires a year with sidewall cuts with radial tires back then. I wouldn't buy that kind of tire again for what I do now though. 20 years ago before the Irok radials came out there basically wasn't anything else on the market in that size range. Now there's a dozen or more big radials that would perform better on everything except maybe pure deep mud. Still a bit shocking just how out of balance they were though. I remember there being a service that someone would take them and put on a balancer type machine that would shave the tread off to make them round and they'd cut some tread out in places to balance them.
Discount tire has always treated me well too. Bummer they're giving you a hard time on it. My biggest issue with discount tire is that the closest one is 2,000 miles away. And I'm told that they don't want to mount or balance tires that aren't OEM size. Costco is a strict OEM size rule too. I think might lie and drop my 5x150 pattern "Ford Raptor" wheels off to get some 35's mounted.
I put about a pound and a half of airsoft BBs in each tire and have zero balance issues. I think golf balls are just a little too big to finely balance a tire for highway use. I’ll never go back to conventional weights, but I do warn the tire guys about it because it makes a damn mess if they dismount without knowing.
Well, I'm pissed. The manager who was giving me attitude did the work and managed to lower the weights but scratched the hell out of both wheels. I was very vocal about the situation. Well, they're buying me two new wheels. I should have never taken them back. I hate me right now.
Well the gouges weren’t as deep as I thought. They ended up refunding me for the two wheels.
And on a positive note, my RCI transfer case/transmission skid plate came in.
And on a positive note, my RCI transfer case/transmission skid plate came in.
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
Mount them biznatches up already!
A friend of mine picked up an '07 SR5 a few weeks ago and broke his off road cherry today. Grey is the most common color for these things around here, so being trail tree twinsies wasn't on purpose.
Changed the cabin air filter.
Wow I didn't realize they still sold them with those hideous wheels all the way up until 2007
I didn't want to say anything to him, but I thought the same thing. His plan is to mod it as the conditions he uses it in dictates, but I have a feeling some 255/85-16s and a 2" lift may end up on there before too long.Wow I didn't realize they still sold them with those hideous wheels all the way up until 2007
Removed sway bar and installed RCI skid plates. The end links were shot anyways. If I decide I need it back I’ll replace the end links and add new bushings before reinstalling it.
So how is it without a front swaybar? Do you have a rear?
I took off my rear swaybar but left the front on after installing suspension and it handles fine.
Drives just fine. I got the OME HD coils and air bags in the rear.
It's kinda remarkable that we still don't see great aftermarket front sway disconnects. By that I mean ideally an in-line hydraulic or electric clutch based disconnect that you cut your OEM bar and install or a full replacement. It's not a super challenging engineering problem and I think there's a real market for them. They're $800ish for a complete aftermarket sway bar with electric disconnect and all the hardware for side by sides.
Agreed. The ride is amazing without it. The Tundra drives like a dream, but thinking about towing my travel trailer I might just throw it back on for safety.
I took my FSB off about a year and a half ago and haven’t missed it for a second.
