What did I get myself into…

[AZBoatHauler]

New guy who just traded in his wife’s Yukon XL Denali for a 2017 LC. I’ve been modding my Tundra for the past 5 years so I’m a little familiar with some of the components but it looks like there are a lot of differences as well.

Here she is - first mods are the bronze heritage wheels - they should be here at the end of the week! Any recommendations on tire size? Debating between staying stock and going up one size. Considering BFG ATs of Toyo AT III.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

Supposed to say “modding” not “kidding” but I can’t find an edit button. Off to a good start.

 

[TLC2013]

Congrats! Easy size to upsize to would be Lt285/65r18 or 275/70r18 with your 18” wheels. A lot of good stuff here to search and read through. I find using google to search for key words like specific tire sizes works a little better then the forum search engine. Just include “ih8mud 200” to your search. It filters results really well.

 

[doru]

Almost weekly someone posts a tire question here, so you have plenty to read

Here is the mega thread 200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-tire-and-wheel-size-database.818686/
and here is the post with the link: 200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-tire-and-wheel-size-database.818686/page-49#post-13570154

Going up one size is not big deal. So why are you debating it?

 

[AZBoatHauler]

Almost weekly someone posts a tire question here, so you have plenty to read

Here is the mega thread 200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-tire-and-wheel-size-database.818686/
and here is the post with the link: 200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-tire-and-wheel-size-database.818686/page-49#post-13570154

Going up one size is not big deal. So why are you debating it?

Thanks for the links. I couldn’t access the 200 series database when I found that thread - only the 100 series link in the second post but I’ll take another look.

Regarding why debate going up in size - cost, availability, weight / mpg are the factors being most considered. I also don’t want to be cutting and melting plastic due to rubbing on the wife’s new ride.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

Got to the google doc with your second link - thank you.

Shocked to see people report rubbing moving just one size up…

 

[TORCHO]

Got to the google doc with your second link - thank you.

Shocked to see people report rubbing moving just one size up…

Yeah. I just stuck to 285 60 because of all the reports I've read. I figured both my 100 and 80 are lifted and modded that I'll keep the 200 stock.

 

[doru]

Going up one size benefits: a small increase in ground clearance under the rear diff and more tire sidewall for off road but not a lot - still good if you deflate your tires off road. And yes there is that look but not everyone considers that a "real" benefit.

If the above is not something that you care then stock will do. By the next tire change you'll figure out if you need something else or if then wife's no longer new ride can be modified

For plus one size MPG will not change much and it is not great anyway. For cost/availability you'll have to do your own research as things are still crazy with supply chain.

I don't know what your Denali was running on but you mentioned this is wife's truck. Is she going to be Ok with noisier and less comfortable tires? Your picks are both worse than the Michelin you have now.

If I would be you I would focus on the fit on the truck (no rubbing) and the fit for your/wife intended use.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

Going up one size benefits: a small increase in ground clearance under the rear diff and more tire sidewall for off road but not a lot - still good if you deflate your tires off road. And yes there is that look but not everyone considers that a "real" benefit.

If the above is not something that you care then stock will do. By the next tire change you'll figure out if you need something else or if then wife's no longer new ride can be modified

For plus one size MPG will not change much and it is not great anyway. For cost/availability you'll have to do your own research as things are still crazy with supply chain.

I don't know what your Denali was running on but you mentioned this is wife's truck. Is she going to be Ok with noisier and less comfortable tires? Your picks are both worse than the Michelin you have now.

If I would be you I would focus on the fit on the truck (no rubbing) and the fit for your/wife intended use.

Great input - much appreciated! Part of the reason we use body on frame full size SUVs is we do tow occasionally, a wake boat that is a little over 6,000 lbs on the trailer and a Honda Pioneer side by side. The LC will definitely see some towing and dirt - but will primarily be a kid hauler and the Tundra will go anywhere there is a decent chance of pinstripes or body damage.

Re noise - I don’t think she will care one bit. She rides in and drives my truck often that has 34” Nitto Ridge Grapplers and never complains.

I’m thinking I may just move the Michelins to the new wheels for the time being and see how it goes for a year or so.

 

[bloc]

How much horsepower does that boat have?

I had zero rubbing with 285/65r18 KO2s, but they run a little small, and even they were very close to rubbing. Over all I like the AT3s more but they may introduce a really tiny bit of rub, though I don’t think you’d need to adjust anything.
On top of tires I’d consider the OE front spacer to remove a bit of the rake. Some dealers claim it can’t be added due to the pre collision system but others will do it. You will need an alignment, but otherwise it is designed to work with our trucks and it does so very well.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

How much horsepower does that boat have?

I had zero rubbing with 285/65r18 KO2s, but they run a little small, and even they were very close to rubbing. Over all I like the AT3s more but they may introduce a really tiny bit of rub, though I don’t think you’d need to adjust anything.
On top of tires I’d consider the OE front spacer to remove a bit of the rake. Some dealers claim it can’t be added due to the pre collision system but others will do it. You will need an alignment, but otherwise it is designed to work with our trucks and it does so very well.

I love your priorities. That motor puts out somewhere between 1,000 and 1,200 as tuned -enough to make you feel it. That’s running about 25 psi boost on 116 race gas. We are in the process of building an aluminum deal for the fall that will up the numbers a bit.

I’d love to level this thing out - I will definitely look into that.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

How much horsepower does that boat have?

I had zero rubbing with 285/65r18 KO2s, but they run a little small, and even they were very close to rubbing. Over all I like the AT3s more but they may introduce a really tiny bit of rub, though I don’t think you’d need to adjust anything.
On top of tires I’d consider the OE front spacer to remove a bit of the rake. Some dealers claim it can’t be added due to the pre collision system but others will do it. You will need an alignment, but otherwise it is designed to work with our trucks and it does so very well.

 

[bloc]

View attachment 3034488View attachment 3034489

I like that a lot.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

I like that a lot.

 

[bloc]

What kind of transmission? And is this using a prop or some kind of jet drive? (I’m very ignorant to racing boats if it isn’t obvious)
How do you avoid moving forward at the start line?

 

[AZBoatHauler]

What kind of transmission? And is this using a prop or some kind of jet drive? (I’m very ignorant to racing boats if it isn’t obvious)
How do you avoid moving forward at the start line?

This is a prop boat. It has a Casale v-drive controlled with a pneumatic solenoid. Switch on the steering wheel drops it in gear. No shifting or reverse. We are running 1.29 gears ATM. Top is output shaft from motor. Bottom is prop shaft going through the boat.

Here is a link to a thread I started on the Tundras forum about the race team.

Drag Boat Racing - InCOLEherent 140 - Moody Blues 265

Figured it was time to create a thread to dump all the updates and photos of our drag boat racing escapades. The boat is a 1981 Cole TR2 featherweight...

www.tundras.com

 

[Adrenaline6]

That is awesome!

I don't know about racing boats either but the hard coded "is there a way to make things better/faster" inside me is wondering if you boat guys use variable pitch props at all or if they are even worth the trouble? Maybe there not allowed?

Not sure if that drawing above is of a variable pitch prop setup to begin with.

 

[AZBoatHauler]

That is awesome!

I don't know about racing boats either but the hard coded "is there a way to make things better/faster" inside me is wondering if you boat guys use variable pitch props at all or if they are even worth the trouble? Maybe there not allowed?

Not sure if that drawing above is of a variable pitch prop setup to begin with.

If you are used to seeing big ass 4 or 5 blade props you’ll laugh -

these tiny 12” 2 blade props get enough bite to do this -

Pitch is usually 15-16.

 

[Adrenaline6]

That is cool!. I guess a variable pitch setup isn't needed/warranted.

 

[bloc]

This is a prop boat. It has a Casale v-drive controlled with a pneumatic solenoid. Switch on the steering wheel drops it in gear. No shifting or reverse. We are running 1.29 gears ATM. Top is output shaft from motor. Bottom is prop shaft going through the boat.

Here is a link to a thread I started on the Tundras forum about the race team.

Drag Boat Racing - InCOLEherent 140 - Moody Blues 265

Figured it was time to create a thread to dump all the updates and photos of our drag boat racing escapades. The boat is a 1981 Cole TR2 featherweight...

www.tundras.com

View attachment 3035120

So no clutch or anything, just a shift fork slamming it into gear when you tell it to? I assume that is done just before the WOT part..