What causes the diff lock light and the 4LO light on the dash flashing? (1 Viewer)

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I think IMHO .. that this check system is faulty. I do miss levers and manual locking hubs that do not fail.
 
Yep. But after 5-10 minute warm up just turn the truck off and back on and the light will clear and cruise will work fine
Forgive me I am very anal about my Bruiser being in top notch shape with ZERO issues. This bug is bugging me. It will go away and come back to haunt me next winter. Most likely I am going to do nothing other than Im due for 250k mile service. But I love when people say how beautiful my Bruiser is and I tell them it has 250k miles and it blows everyone's mind (Bruiser looks like it has 30k miles on it based on exterior, I get a car wash daily with my monthly unlimited car washes for $22/mo and my KO2s are super black from daily armour all).
 
Agreed and I'm likewise anal about my Bruiser. Nothing kills the experience for me more than something not working on the car. It's why I own the car because of its supposed unflinching reliability, and I'll do just about any preventative maintenance and repair to keep it that way. Actually, there is one thing that kills the experience more which is being on an epic off-road trip, and not being able to access 4Hi/Lo and CDL when I want need them.

Encouraged to report I made it through winter without one issue after the R&R last summer. Same with the last weeklong trip out to Lake Powell, system worked on point. Refer to post #4.
 
My bet is you have a weak battery. You guys that start it up and let it run for a bit and then restart to get rid of the flashing light have just topped the battery off enough for it not to have the error the next startup.
 
Might be possible for me. I plan to check this week and will report my findings. I havent been trusting my battery for months. I have the cheap lead acid battery which dies 2 years to the date of install. I programmed a reminder to change battery 3 months ago as it usually catches me off guard. Voltage has been a hair below middle on the dash (14V) - Im guessing 13.8V based on needle location.
 
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My bet is you have a weak battery. You guys that start it up and let it run for a bit and then restart to get rid of the flashing light have just topped the battery off enough for it not to have the error the next startup.

Battery is in excellent condition. Definitely not a battery causing the issue in my situation.

I think it is some flaw in how it tests for if it's operational.

I use 4LO weekly and now I'm also turning on the diff lock, which I wasn't doing in the past, so I'll see if the problem happens again.
 
My bet is you have a weak battery. You guys that start it up and let it run for a bit and then restart to get rid of the flashing light have just topped the battery off enough for it not to have the error the next startup.
I was thinking about this too.. I replaced my group 24 with a 27 and since I got the larger battery I have not had the lights flash. Had it happen 1 time and that was because I left my bluetooth OBD reader plugged in overnight which was probably drawing from battery.
 
I was thinking about this too.. I replaced my group 24 with a 27 and since I got the larger battery I have not had the lights flash. Had it happen 1 time and that was because I left my bluetooth OBD reader plugged in overnight which was probably drawing from battery.
Same here. Weak battery was the issue for me. My battery did not test bad either but the issue resolved itself with a new battery.
 

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