What brake controller cables for '98 LX470, no tow package? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Threads
11
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Location
Portland, OR
Website
www.jonathancase.net
Hi guys- I have a 1998 Lexus LX470 (no tow package) and I'm trying to determine what parts I need to set up a brake controller. I gather from the forum that there might be a universal kit for this, but haven't found a part# or name.

Right now everything's stock aside from an aftermarket Curt hitch and 7 pin wiring connection plug (for connecting my R-Pod travel trailer). These parts are in place and working. A brake controller unit came with the trailer (loose wires that'll need to be spliced), but I'm not sure what cables I need to interface it with my 7-pin connection in the rear.

Any help's appreciated!
 
Who ho!!! Like minds. I too am looking to purchase an R-Pod RV - either R179 or R180.

Your 1998 and my 2002 LX470 did not come pre-wired for the 7-pin connector required to control
RV trailer brakes. I got mine wired and working - I use the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 and mounted it
in place of the Ash Tray.

These are the parts I ordered from www.eTrailer.com :


4-pin wiring:
Tekonsha Tow Harness #118245 $ 21.95

Trailer Hitch:
Draw-Tite Hitch: 75095 $172.95

Wiring:
Trailer Connector Mounting Box, #18157 $ 7.99
Universal Wiring Kit $ 65.84
Quickie Tester $ 23.95
Trailer Connector Mounting Box, # 18159 $ 9.99

Brake Controller:
Tekonsha Prodigy P3 #90195 $144.15
----------

TOTAL = $436.83

Course you already have the Trailer Hitch and 4-pin connector wiring harness.

You will need to use the Universal Wiring Kit to run some wire from the rear
to the front of the vehicle. I ran mine underneath and up into the Engine Compartment.
Then you will need to run wire from inside the Engine Compartment through the firewall and
to the Brake Controller.


Some heads up:
1- you can use a pick and punch a hole in the rubber Grommet on the driver side to get wire
from the engine compartment to the Brake Controller.
2- you need to tap a wire onto the lead from the brake pedal. Its not apparent. You
cannot use the wire directly off the brake pedal switch. Instead you need to remove
the side panel (easy) and tap a wire connector onto a wire behind that panel.

I can make some photos of key areas if you like.
 
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Who ho!!! Like minds. I too am looking to purchase an R-Pod RV - either R179 or R180.

Your 1998 and my 2002 LX470 did not come pre-wired for the 7-pin connector required to control
RV trailer brakes. I got mine wired and working - I use the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 and mounted it
in place of the Ash Tray.

These are the parts I ordered from www.eTrailer.com :


4-pin wiring:
Tekonsha Tow Harness #118245 $ 21.95

Trailer Hitch:
Draw-Tite Hitch: 75095 $172.95

Wiring:
Trailer Connector Mounting Box, #18157 $ 7.99
Universal Wiring Kit $ 65.84
Quickie Tester $ 23.95
Trailer Connector Mounting Box, # 18159 $ 9.99

Brake Controller:
Tekonsha Prodigy P3 #90195 $144.15
----------

TOTAL = $436.83

Course you already have the Trailer Hitch and 4-pin connector wiring harness.

You will need to use the Universal Wiring Kit to run some wire from the rear
to the front of the vehicle. I ran mine underneath and up into the Engine Compartment.
Then you will need to run wire from inside the Engine Compartment through the firewall and
to the Brake Controller.


Some heads up:
1- you can use a pick and punch a hole in the rubber Grommet on the driver side to get wire
from the engine compartment to the Brake Controller.
2- you need to tap a wire onto the lead from the brake pedal. Its not apparent. You
cannot use the wire directly off the brake pedal switch. Instead you need to remove
the side panel (easy) and tap a wire connector onto a wire behind that panel.

I can make some photos of key areas if you like.

SO very helpful! Thank you. I'll order those parts. Is this the universal kit you purchased, or something similar?

Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring RM-154

I'd read those other threads you included - seems very helpful for finding the brake wire on that left panel.

You're going to love the R-Pod! We got a 2013 182g from a guy who took amazing care of it. Hood River edition, too, which is sweet for off-road clearance (or getting up and over our humped driveway, as the case may be).
 
Preowned R-Pods are hard to find. Guess it shows how well they are liked.

My Universal Wiring Kit was different.
I used the Tekonsha Tow Harness #118245 $ 21.95 as plug-n-play giving me the 4-wire connector.
But I read that you already have this 4-wire connector - so you won't need this.
With this, the tail lights and brake lights are passed to the tailer when one end of the 4-wire connector
is plugged into the back of the 7-way connector. BUT, still the 7-way connector needs
+12V and the Brake Controller output wired to it. To do this, you need the Universal
Wiring kit which provides heavy gauge wire to run from the trailer hitch to the Engine Compartment.
This kit also provides wire connectors and circuit breakers.
 
The Universal wiring kit comes with heavy gauge wire pairs in a gray sheath.
I ran this wire pair from the 7-way connector to the Engine Compartment.
Then screwed down 2 circuit breakers to the fender panel in the Engine Compartment.
Then you need to run 3 wires from the Engine Compartment through the Firewall
and inside the cabin. The Brake Controller needs its own +12V, and Ground and the
+12V is protected by one of the Circuit Breakers. The other Circuit Breaker protects
the +12V to the 7-way connector. The third wire that is run inside the Cabin is the
Brake Controller output. This wire is the other wire pair that runs to the
7-way which controls the Trailer Brakes.

Sounds convoluted but the kit comes with a diagram that will make sense when you get
to installing it.
 
The Universal wiring kit comes with heavy gauge wire pairs in a gray sheath.
I ran this wire pair from the 7-way connector to the Engine Compartment.
Then screwed down 2 circuit breakers to the fender panel in the Engine Compartment.
Then you need to run 3 wires from the Engine Compartment through the Firewall
and inside the cabin. The Brake Controller needs its own +12V, and Ground and the
+12V is protected by one of the Circuit Breakers. The other Circuit Breaker protects
the +12V to the 7-way connector. The third wire that is run inside the Cabin is the
Brake Controller output. This wire is the other wire pair that runs to the
7-way which controls the Trailer Brakes.

Sounds convoluted but the kit comes with a diagram that will make sense when you get
to installing it.

That's really helpful! I know what to order now, and given your thorough instructions, I'll be off to a great start on getting it installed. Thank you very much!

You're right, we got completely lucky on our R-Pod. My LX470 buying experience through a used car dealer was rough, though, so we needed a win! :)
 
I see that the 2017 R-Pods are changing colors - from green to blue.
And they now offer an Awning rather than the R-Dome tent.
I think I would kinda prefer the R-Dome. Wifey wants the
Bathroom to be dry ... but I think the wet bath saves space
and should be just as convenient.
 
I'll let you know on those things - we are also looking at getting an R-Dome. Haven't tried the shower/bathroom setup yet either (need to do the maiden voyage soon).

I'd personally love it if they'd just paint these things a solid color rather than beige with a bunch of random swoops. :) Maybe one day I'll repaint ours.
 
The Universal wiring kit comes with heavy gauge wire pairs in a gray sheath.
I ran this wire pair from the 7-way connector to the Engine Compartment.
Then screwed down 2 circuit breakers to the fender panel in the Engine Compartment.
Then you need to run 3 wires from the Engine Compartment through the Firewall
and inside the cabin. The Brake Controller needs its own +12V, and Ground and the
+12V is protected by one of the Circuit Breakers. The other Circuit Breaker protects
the +12V to the 7-way connector. The third wire that is run inside the Cabin is the
Brake Controller output. This wire is the other wire pair that runs to the
7-way which controls the Trailer Brakes.

Sounds convoluted but the kit comes with a diagram that will make sense when you get
to installing it.
Just wanted to say thanks again for helping me get this sorted! I did the job a couple days ago and while it took me a half day, everything went well and seems to be working correctly.

You get any leads on an R-Pod yet? :)
 
Glad to hear you got the Brake Controller all hooked up.
BTW, how does the LX do pulling the R-Pod?

Lowest price I seen on a new R-Pod 180 is $14,680. But I'm sure there are additional costs.
Really like to find a used one but folks seem to like keeping their R-Pods.
 
I'm doing my trial run this weekend, so I'll let you know. I've only towed it to DMV pre-brake controller, so I didn't get up to speed. I think it'll do very well on the flat, but am still curious about going up hills. We'll see!
 
Back from the maiden voyage towing our 182g R-pod! I was very pleased with the towing experience and the brake controller's functionality. We had two adults, a 4 year old, and some gear in the car (maybe 150 lbs?). The R-pod's dry weight is 3,100 lbs, and we were probably over that by another 100 lbs between dishes, setup gear, etc. I don't know my exact hitch weight yet, but expect it's at least 400 lbs.

Here are my thoughts:

Pros:
  • Never got blown around the road by cars/semis/etc. overtaking us. The ride felt very solid and stable.
  • I have the Equal-i-zer WDH/sway bar setup, and never felt any sway from the trailer.
  • With the truck's overdrive off (necessary when towing according to the manual and others on the forum) the engine, even running at 3k RPM, stayed quiet going down the highway and up slight grades at 55-60mph. I got up to 65 a couple times when I wasn't paying attention, and it did that easily on the flat, also hovering around 3k RPM.
  • Visibility is good around the trailer, especially with one of these. I found this mirror attachment to be very solid (no wobbles or vibrations for me, as some reviewers posted on Amazon. I think they're either not tightening correctly or their mirrors must be a very strange shape).
Cons:
  • No REAL cons given my driving preferences (under 60mph and careful), but if I wanted to go up a hill at 50-55 mph, I needed to really put on the gas. The engine revved to just over 4k RPM. I chose not to keep it there, settling for 45-50 mph at 3k RPM.
  • Just the added engine strain/lower mpgs, but that's life when towing.
  • The AHC system stayed in 'LO' for me for quite a while - at least til we'd been on the highway a few minutes, and maybe gone over a few hills, when it settled back to 'N'. According to the manual, even if it stays in LO the entire time, it's still safe to drive per normal. Just not sure why it took a bit to adjust. Probably 10-15 minutes of driving to the campsite it adjusted, and the same after hitching back up and heading home.
Overall, I had a great experience with towing the r-Pod, and think you'll be pleased as well! The LX is no speed demon with the load, but it's very sure-footed and confidence-inspiring, at least with my WDH setup.
 
Thanks for the input. This is giving more confidence to go out and purchase an R-Pod.
Went to an RV show this weekend but they only had one R-Pod -- a 183G. It got a
lot of folks looking at it. Those RV dealers should have brought out more of their
smaller trailers rather than mostly $100K to $400K coaches.
 
What are your impressions of your R-Pod and also how your LX470 tows?????
Still looking and pondering on a travel trailer.
 
We love it! It's a good size for us, with plenty of features (more than we use). As far as how the LX tows it, I have no reservations recommending the truck. It has plenty of brakes to handle the sloping curves of California's HWY 1 (I have trailer brakes, of course, but they seem underpowered). Up steep freeway grades, we sometimes slow down to 40, 45, only getting back up to 55 if I push the engine higher than I'd want to sustain for lengthy periods. I've never seen it redline, but I don't push it.
 

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