What battery is everyone running?

[tromz]

I’ve searched on here. Most info is 3-10 years out of date on batteries. Getting ready to replace my worn out one. I eventually am gonna set up dual system at some point. What’s everyone running these days? For crank battery and house battery?

 

[Dr Gil]

Northstar for both house and accessory

 

[JunkCrzr89]

ToYoTa TrUeStArT cUz OeM oR bUsT

 

[cartercd]

I favor batteries that:
- Have a good warranty, as batteries in Arizona rarely last their rated lifetime
- Are widely distributed so I can get a replacement just about anywhere

So I stick with an Interstate MTP Group 27. 710 CCA. Not fancy, but reliable and it works.

 

[93yotasr5]

Costco interstate batteries for my dual setup. Cost about $100 each and have a good warranty.

 

[tromz]

Ok so lead acid? Agm? lithium? What sizes n group? And what all are you powering? Simple set up or using dc dc charger?

 

[bhsdriller]

whatever costco has

 

[OffRoadScott]

I am going to be honest, Interstate Batteries are the best (my current employer). Currently running a Optima group 35 in my 80 and will probably run another one in the secondary location but a marine variant and in parallel.

AGM batteries do have a longer life expediencies then a normal battery only if the charging system can support it. Our 80 series LC do not have the abity to support the correct charging in STOCK configuration, if you are running a higher amperage alternator you will be okay.

 

[LandLocked93]

2 - Interstate wet 27DC group in the engine room.
2 - Interstate 4D group sealed AGM as 24V bank in rear cargo area.

edit:24v RedArc BCDC between the two

 

[tromz]

I am going to be honest, Interstate Batteries are the best (my current employer). Currently running a Optima group 35 in my 80 and will probably run another one in the secondary location but a marine variant and in parallel.

AGM batteries do have a longer life expediencies then a normal battery only if the charging system can support it. Our 80 series LC do not have the abity to support the correct charging in STOCK configuration, if you are running a higher amperage alternator you will be okay.

Isn’t that what the dc dc charger is for?

 

[OffRoadScott]

Isn’t that what the dc dc charger is for?

I should have stated the factory charging system, not aftermarket if that is what you are referring too.

 

[tromz]

2 - Interstate wet cell 27DC group in the engine room.
2 - Interstate 4D group sealed AGM as 24V bank in rear cargo area.

edit:24v RedArc BCDC between the two

so like a lead acid up front for start battery?

 

[LandLocked93]

so like a lead acid up front for start battery?

In my case, yes. Tho a deep cycle as crank battery isn't strictly recommended.
Mine isn't DD. It sits still far more than it runs.
But when I want/need it to run, for the infrequent 12+hrs at a time, a battery that can hold its charge the longest between charges is best, ime and imo.

 

[tromz]

apologies. I really did do my homework before posting. There’s just so much conflicting info. And so many price level options. I’m looking to replace start battery and associated bits. I have hardware for right side aux battery mounting. The interior is out. I was going to run the hot wires and grounds while in there for aux power. Going to stay single battery for a bit but adding a second once I get closer to the end of my refresh

 

[tromz]

In my case, yes. Tho a deep cycle as crank battery isn't strictly recommended.
Mine isn't DD. It sits still far more than it runs.
But when I want/need it to run, for the infrequent 12+hrs at a time, a battery that can hold its charge the longest between charges is best, ime and imo.

Ok. So lead acid is better if she’s gonna sit. I have been known to mash and bash some

 

[OffRoadScott]

apologies. I really did do my homework before posting. There’s just so much conflicting info. And so many price level options. I’m looking to replace start battery and associated bits. I have hardware for right side aux battery mounting. The interior is out. I was going to run the hot wires and grounds while in there for aux power. Going to stay single battery for a bit but adding a second once I get closer to the end of my refresh

IF there is a chance that you will run a 2nd battery do it now vice going back and having to re-wire after the fact.

Good MILSPEC terminals is all you really need at the battery. Wire gauge is dependant on the load, accessories.

 

[tromz]

I should have stated the factory charging system, not aftermarket if that is what you are referring too.

So how are guys running like just a blue sea isolator with stock stuff. And I meant dc dc to charge house battery

 

[OffRoadScott]

So how are guys running like just a blue sea isolator with stock stuff. And I meant dc dc to charge house battery

The BlueSea isolation is super easy to install. There are good instructions on their site and it is dependent on what isolation you install too.

 

[tromz]

Yea gonna drop wiring down while I’m doing my refresh. I have new cables and terminals ordered. Along with the elusive fusible link n a spare. I’m more wondering what specific batteries to use In the start and the house position. Probably gonna do a red arc dc dc With solar capabilities.

 

[aclos3]

I have a Northstar (X2Power from Batteries Plus) as my starting battery and partial house load. I plug into an AGM trickle charger whenever I'm parked in the garage, but really my alternator seems to charge it pretty well. AGMs like to charge at a slightly higher voltage (14.6 to 14.8).

For my second battery, I have an Ampere Time 50ah LiFePO4 battery for the main house load (ebike charging, fridge operation). I charge this battery with a Renogy 20amp DC to DC charger that is connected to the starting battery. I also can charge this battery via 100 watt solar panel and 20 amp MPPT controller.