Well that, and the fact wet cell batts are less expensive per wH and - in my case being engine room batts - adhere to ventilation requirements by the nature of their being outside the cabin.
What battery is everyone running? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tromz
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I don't believe the costco version of the interstate battery is of the same quality as the version you find at the interstate store, I did have an interstate battery in my old 82 4x4 22r that was still cranking after 11 years, the battery was abused and would sit for 2-4 month, the truck was carbureted with a broken choke, sold the truck with the battery. Wife's subaru killed a costco interstate battery in about 6 month of daily use, upgraded it to a Duracell from Batteries Plus, same place i bought my fzj80s northstar AMG battery. The 80 has the factory alternator I have everything for the Sequoia 160 amp alternator upgrade.... everything except time
You dont have a choice for batts in the cabin space other than the sealed type. AGM at min. LiPo at worst. lol
Yes. All day long.
FMC80
SILVER Star
I only use batteries that are made in the USA or not made in China and Mexico.
- Thread starter
- #25
So have you ever had the start battery go flat? And the lithium can you jump your start battery in the event of catastrophe on the trail or at camp? I like what I read n lithium and might be able to justify at time of install.
Yes.
Flipped a switch on a panel in the dash to bind the second batt into the path of the start batt and cranked up the truck. Which then charged the flat start batt back to health.
This has nothing to do with battery chemistry. Lead-acid, polymer (lipo), sealed, etc.
It's how you implement a dual battery system.
Lithium is a [edit:costly] weight-saving measure. Use at your discretion.
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Yes, and it was with a Costco Interstate 27. Fortunately, I have both a jumper battery and a 2nd accessory battery. No more Interstate for me. I'll choose reliability over cost savings any day if I'm going to be out in the wilderness far from an Interstate battery dealer.
Ive read Optima quality has gone down in the past few years, but I still have goodexperience with them.
I have Yellowtops for both my starter and my house battery using an Ironman dual battery system. Never had an issue.
My fridge holds up just fine for a couple of days, the car always starts right up and I frequently use my aux battery for my jon boat's trolling motor. The batteries have been going strong for a few years now.
I have Yellowtops for both my starter and my house battery using an Ironman dual battery system. Never had an issue.
My fridge holds up just fine for a couple of days, the car always starts right up and I frequently use my aux battery for my jon boat's trolling motor. The batteries have been going strong for a few years now.
Optima red top.
No issues.
No issues.
X2 from Batteries Plus, been going strong for 3 years
- Thread starter
- #31
So the optimas are readily available near me. Any differences using a red top vs a yellow top for cranking? Can you use both? Red start. Yellow house? Which sizes and groups?
- Thread starter
- #32
Oh I have a Napa in town The odesseys Are on back order. A lot of things have supply issues.
In my case with a small 50ah lithium battery, I can't jump the truck directly from it. However, I do carry a big jump starter battery pack as well as an inverter and jumper cables, so even if no one was around and my jump starter battery pack was dead, I could theoretically charge it up with the inverter from the lithium battery.
- Thread starter
- #34
Which one?
- Thread starter
- #35
Which ones?
BadReligion
SILVER Star
There is a pretty good battery thread going on in the 200 section regarding lithium ion batteries.
forum.ih8mud.com
Basically, stock charging systems on 80s, 100s, and 200s are not compatible with lithium ion, and not ideal with AGM. The most reliable, cost effective battery is going to be a flooded lead acid, and just plan on replacing it every 3-5 years. Only advantage of AGM is they deep cycle a bit better if you are running a fridge and accessories off of your main battery.
Li is very energy dense and can be repeatedly discharged to 10% without harming it. They make a great second battery if you can justify the cost. But there are some big temperature limitations (they do not like temps below 32* and most cannot be charged below certain temps, even with a BMS).
Lithium Battery?
I searched, but did not find much discussion around battery brands, types. I need to replace my OEM battery and would like to buy something a little more robust than OEM for my future build needs. It seems a Lithium is the way to go these days? Anyone recommend a good middle of the road one...
forum.ih8mud.com
Basically, stock charging systems on 80s, 100s, and 200s are not compatible with lithium ion, and not ideal with AGM. The most reliable, cost effective battery is going to be a flooded lead acid, and just plan on replacing it every 3-5 years. Only advantage of AGM is they deep cycle a bit better if you are running a fridge and accessories off of your main battery.
Li is very energy dense and can be repeatedly discharged to 10% without harming it. They make a great second battery if you can justify the cost. But there are some big temperature limitations (they do not like temps below 32* and most cannot be charged below certain temps, even with a BMS).
I believe they're Group 34? The model is D34 I think. Both of them.
AGM X2 group 31, been going strong for 3 yrs as well
FMC80
SILVER Star
For me, choosing a battery is akin to losing my virginity. Go to the auto parts store, stand in front of the battery rack, close your eyes and swing wildly until you hit something. Open your eyes and the one you touched is your new battery. Set it and forget it.
I really like Deka/East Penn Manufacturing. They're sold under other brand names. My primary is a Deka/East Penn sold under the Duracell brand by BatteriesPlus.
