Welding Rod for sheet metal

[TheGr8Doughboy]

Anyone know what rod I can use to stitch up my rear quarters and fix some rusty areas? I know I could mig it back together but I'm starting to get comfortable with the stick (take my 1/4" 2G plate test next week sometime) and wanna see if I can't stick some sheet metal to the rust that is my cruiser

Thanks
Chris

 

[crustyBJ60]

6013

hth's
crusty

 

[TheGr8Doughboy]

Huh, ok...

6013: Fill-Freeze group
Medium deposition Medium Penetration
3/16" sizes great for sheet metal

Great, I was expecting to hear like 7024 or something and was gonna ask how I weld vertical or horizontal with that.

thanks
chris

 

[TheGr8Doughboy]

Oh and I really like welding with 7018 for some multipass stuff. Will I have much trouble with it as it's low hydrogen with keepin it for a bit as long as goes into the oven before use?

Ok, while I'm asking welding type questions. We need to close up the air rail holes on my buddy's CJ's exhaust manifold. I don't have as easy access to an acytline torch as I do a stick machine... any options aside from brazing? (too much mass to sliver solder with a propane torch)

Another question. Is there a book like the machinist handbook for welding with rod types and applications, preheat etc etc all in one place?

Awsome, thanks

 

[CruisinGA]

JB weld the air rail

 

[TheGr8Doughboy]

Will JB weld melt? What type?

 

[crustyBJ60]

look for "IPT" pipe trade books, something like that. i have a couple in the shop, but it's late, i'll post later if you're still looking.

keep your lo-hi sealed and dry, if it's been out. needs at least 6hrs in the oven at 250F. welding with cold xx18 is no fun. no more thatn 4hrs out if it's hot, then back into the oven.


x2 on the jb weld, you'll be suprised what it'll hold.

mig or tig is the only way to go for tin, 6013 works, but not such a good job for thin body tin. but what do i know?


crusty.

 

[TheGr8Doughboy]

look for "IPT" pipe trade books, something like that. i have a couple in the shop, but it's late, i'll post later if you're still looking.

keep your lo-hi sealed and dry, if it's been out. needs at least 6hrs in the oven at 250F. welding with cold xx18 is no fun. no more thatn 4hrs out if it's hot, then back into the oven.


x2 on the jb weld, you'll be suprised what it'll hold.

mig or tig is the only way to go for tin, 6013 works, but not such a good job for thin body tin. but what do i know?


crusty.

Right on. No need to post up the book. I have some misc literature from class I was just lookin for a book to put in my weldin bag as a resource.

6 hrs after it's been out. Will do.

So I prolly outta wait to cut my rear quarters out till I can get to a mig welder eh? Is it hard to do with a stick? Or just slow and tedious?

Chris

 

[crustyBJ60]

So I prolly outta wait to cut my rear quarters out till I can get to a mig welder eh? Is it hard to do with a stick? Or just slow and tedious?


yes

crusty

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Another question. Is there a book like the machinist handbook for welding with rod types and applications, preheat etc etc all in one place?

The reference I have is "The Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding" from The Lincoln Electric Co. (yeah, the welder manufacturer ). Mine is a 12th addition printed in 1973. I bet there is a more current version out by now. Still, this one covers most of the common rods, joints and positions in more detail than you'll ever need... I paid (stole it???) $7 at the local used book store for it.

Nick

 

[honk]

Outfitting.

Can't you plug the air rail holes with bolts, plugs, or something screwed in? Or it's not like a 2F manifold? If you're talking about cast iron and stick welding your talking about nickel rod.

Stick on sheet metal is frustrating and messy. Most wouldn't try it no matter the rod since theres not good enough arc insulation or control. You get burnthrough, spatter, and warped panels. I'd go so far as to say that it's stupid to try to stick weld sheet metal where it counts. If you just want to try your hand at it do it with scrap metal. Who knows? Maybe you're the one guy in a thousand who can control a stick arc like a tig welder controld his.

Lincoln is still good with info about stick rods. check their website, there's tons of info and some for sale to carry around with you.

 

[Cube Dweller]

2nd on the Lincoln website. They have some great info, though it is specifically around their proprietary electrodes. never knew there were so many flavors of 7018.

 

[brian]

take your stick machine and turn it into a scratch start tig.
a flow meter, bottle of gas and the tig lead with a torch that has a gas control valve is all you need.
reverse the polarity and your good to go.
no foot pedal to mess with, you'll just control your heat with the control as you would with stick.
of course this only works if you have a DC machine.
with no hi freq, you just scratch start as with stick, and you can't do alum.
a scratch start is better than no tig.
all of our field tigs are this way, works great.


welding with "cold" 7018's is no big deal.
the shop has an oven, but none of the trucks do. the 18's in my truck never even seen an oven.
i can't tell the difference between the heated or cold rods.

 

[72FJ40LandCruiser]

take your stick machine and turn it into a scratch start tig.
a flow meter, bottle of gas and the tig lead with a torch that has a gas control valve is all you need.
reverse the polarity and your good to go.
no foot pedal to mess with, you'll just control your heat with the control as you would with stick.
of course this only works if you have a DC machine.
with no hi freq, you just scratch start as with stick, and you can't do alum.
a scratch start is better than no tig.
all of our field tigs are this way, works great.


welding with "cold" 7018's is no big deal.
the shop has an oven, but none of the trucks do. the 18's in my truck never even seen an oven.
i can't tell the difference between the heated or cold rods.

I agree with Brian. Gather up the stuff to do scratch start if that's the only machine you have and you don't plan on getting a mig. You can even add a pedal to it for more control. You're nuts to try to stick weld sheet metal and think you won't end up with a big warped mess.

The difference I always found with the 7018's was them absorbing moisture in the air, for me anyways. In SE Kansas it was always very humid and they would seem like they wouldn't weld quit as 'smooth' as if I had just pulled them out of the oven. Maybe it was my imagination, but they seemed to spatter more. I would imagine that if they were kept in those air tight tubes that that would solve the problem, though.

 

[MrMoMo]

If you were to go stick (why is all I would ask) go with skinny 7018 or 6013 and do it downhand.

 

[TheGr8Doughboy]

Have a stick welder? I wish... I'm borrowing one from now till the end of the summer. I can't use a scratch tig for class.... so untill I finish my certification I'll be burning rods

I picked up 2#s of 1/8" 6010 1/8" 7018 and 3/32 6013.... we'll see where that takes me.

Chris

 

[White Shark]

I have to agree with keeping the rods dry. Standard humidity will ruin rods. Keep them contained or they will deteriorate fast. The same goes for Mig wire. Try to keep the spools in plastic until used as they will rust up fast, ruining the wire. If you don't weld much, stick to the 2 pound spools as it's cheaper to toss a 2 pound spool than a 10 pound spool.

Low hydrogen is the way to go as far as stick on mild steel is concerned. Don't waste time on sheet metal though as burn through is almost guaranteed. Mig it or Tig it.

 

[72FJ40LandCruiser]

Have a stick welder? I wish... I'm borrowing one from now till the end of the summer. I can't use a scratch tig for class.... so untill I finish my certification I'll be burning rods

I picked up 2#s of 1/8" 6010 1/8" 7018 and 3/32 6013.... we'll see where that takes me.

Chris

Please don't even try 1/8". 3/32" is too much for sheet metal. Try to find some 1/16" if you absolutely want to try to stick weld sheet metal, but *please* don't do it on your cruiser! Find some scrap and try to butt weld a couple flat pieces and then look at how bad you warped it. I bet you'll wait until you can use the right process to weld your panels.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

If you need a mig i just might know where you can find one....

 

[TheGr8Doughboy]

Please don't even try 1/8". 3/32" is too much for sheet metal. Try to find some 1/16" if you absolutely want to try to stick weld sheet metal, but *please* don't do it on your cruiser! Find some scrap and try to butt weld a couple flat pieces and then look at how bad you warped it. I bet you'll wait until you can use the right process to weld your panels.

Ok ok! I'll keep the stick away from the sheet metal!