Weld on sliders vs bolt on (1 Viewer)

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Howdy!

I'm having some sliders made from a local shop and the topic of how to mount the sliders came up. This particular fabricator weld his sliders onto the frame of the car for most of his customers, I brought up the bolt on option to him as well. Here are a few concerns I have with both methods, if you can guys can help me clarify.

- Will the temperature from welding the tubes change the metallurgy of the frame compromising structural integrity?
- Will drilling through the frame to use bolts compromise structural integrity?
- Will drilling the frame deem your car as salvage title?
- which method is better and why do you prefer it?
This is a photo of a mud member whom had his sliders made from the same fabricator, it shows how and where it will be welded.

Thanks in advance for all your help and experience.

3M83J43N25Ef5Hd5J3d53c33aa79d6e611451_zps9ed33416.jpg
 
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1. No.
2. Maybe, but you don't have do drill the frame to bolt them on.
3. Don't know
 
Not an expert, but, here goes:

1: From mild to mild?
2: A little bit. Not a big deal
3: doubtful
 
No gussets. That would be unacceptable to me. Bolt on sliders use U bolts around the frame.
 
Not a fan of weld on. You cannot remove them if you need to access exhaust.

Mine are attached to the frame with a 1/4 inch steel bracket. The bracket forms a "C" that clamps the frame. Across the open side of the "C" which on the top side of the frame, a 7/16 grade 8 is bolt used to snug up and " closes" the 'C". The bolt rests on the top of the frame.

I have gussets running from the bracket to the leg of the slider.

If the guys not a pro welder...You will possibly warp the frame in the areas where it is welded. You introduce the potential for cracking at the weld points, and if not done correctly, it is possible to take the strength out of the steel (kinda reaching with this statement but it can happen)

Better to drill your frame if you don't want to use a clamp idea

That being said lots of guys have welded theirs on and it seems to work.
 
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I don't see any gussets in that picture, are you saying that you would weld it but you will not weld gussets?

gofast, thanks for your post, I was thinking of something along the method you used with the C clamp on the back side and bolts on top and bottom. It does make things a little more complicated but the upside is you can remove it as stated above, that's one of the reasons I want it removable. This guy can weld, I visited his shop and had a chance to check out his work. sd
 
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Dont weld them on like the ones in the picture. You need thicker scab plates to distribute the load and gussets. The frame is only 1/8, the way they are welded in the picture the frame is the weak link and will bend before the sliders.
 
The pic you added shows some nice sliders....although butt welding pipe to the frame is more than iffy. A hard hit could rip the frame. I am a fan a weld on sliders. They are stronger when done correctly. There needs to be flat stock welded to the frame first for each outrigger. Then weld the tube to that. Then need a gusset connecting tube to flat stock.

Check out my install of Marlin 68" slider kit for Tacomas. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...er-68-slider-install-cheaper-alternative.html

If something was to go wrong with sliders (mangled) then it does take some grinding work to get them off but it is not impossible.

Bolt on units are usually vehicle specific and weld on units are usually custom build units.
 
Here's how the IPOR built sliders are welded to the frame.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=5113137&postcount=3

On my new new 80 I have bolt on MT sliders and I wish I'd have gone with weld-on instead. On my old 80 with the IPOR's I could use my hi-lift to jack up the truck and they wouldn't move. On the bolt on MT sliders when I jack it up the slider will press up against the rocker. Granted that's a lot of constant upward pressure but still.
 
I have Marlin's also welded directly to frame. No gussets (yet), no scab plates (lack of research before install--would definitely use them next time), no problems yet. They've taken some good hits at the local ORV park, no bends, no damage.

I would definitely make them bolt on if the cost is not too much more.
 
No
No
No
Bolt on for me without question. I would guess weld on would be easier to fab.
 
I have to add that I made an exhaust over the frame for my 80 that is in bolted sections. So welding to the frame does not hinder taking off the exhaust . Another thing to consider when welding to frame.
 
I see you're from So. Cal...what shop is doing the work?
 
This guys doesn't exactly market himself with a name, I advised him to though.
He does have a large shop in Costa Mesa, only 10 minutes from my house. Are you interested in a pair?
 
Dont weld them on like the ones in the picture. You need thicker scab plates to distribute the load and gussets. The frame is only 1/8, the way they are welded in the picture the frame is the weak link and will bend before the sliders.

Thank You, I agree :)
 
He should start with 1/2 steel square 3"X3" plates and drill 4 holes in each. Then counter-sink 4 SS bolts through the back of the plates...then weld the plate/bolt assemblies to the frame...then attach the sliders over the bolts and tighten the nuts.
 
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I have 4xInnovations Sliders and they are bolt on and have put them to task several times in a year and am completely happy with them. I am glad they are removable since it has the cat protector and I'm sure it will be easier to remove the slider to work on any exhaust issues than struggle around a welded pair.
 
I would prefer bolt on so they can removed if needed. That said, my Marlin sliders are welded on.

Mine have 5 outriggers with scab plates and gussets on top of each one. A lot more stout that what you posted a pic of.
 

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