Weber carb issues, climbing steep angles (1 Viewer)

[Boaf 32]

Keep the stock mechanical pump - add a good regulator if you can find one . Avoid that crappy chrome-dial Purlator/Holley/whatever brand , they are junk . Make sure you have a good heat insulator under that carb , later model Cruisers it's nice if you can get a carb cooler fan and make it work - it helps . Best insulators were the later model ones with the sheet metal heat deflector built into it .
Sarge

Sarge, Attached is a picture of the carb. I have the stock mechanical pump (I believe because it looks original to the LC). I do not know if I have a regulator, but can check and go on line to look if needed. I am not sure what insulators are, I do have "high-riser plates" under the carb for vacuum installed by the PO. Are those the Insulators?

The other thought, there is a lot of condensate coming from the Valve cover (where a PCV would go) You can see the tube going into the air filter base. I'm thinking that the "un spent fuel" puddled in the intake may be that condensation. Wondering if anyone else encountered that.

Before investing in Regulator:
I will disconnect the breather from the valve cover, remove the carb and clean the Condensation / fuel, re-install the carb and run it without the breather feeding into the air filter. Will see what happens, not sure that will resolve it but....

Thanks, Boaf

 

[Weber Sarge]

Those aluminum adapters are what came with the install kit - they are fine . A sheet metal insulator added to prevent manifold/header heat soaking into the carb helps as well . If this is the same issues discussed in the 38DGAS thread , check the float valve first and set the float height .
Watch out for the choke linkage c-clip - they usually hit you in the face first , then disappear forever - 1/8" replacements work fine .
Sarge

 

[Boaf 32]

Jesus clips... because when they pop you say Jeessssus

 

[unklwedy]

Most off road carbs have a wee little spring in the needle and seat assembly(attaches to float in carb). Spring prevents float bowl from
overfilling during bouncy ride. Whether weber offers such a thing is another question.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Yes , all modern Weber DGV carbs use a damper spring in the float valve - standard issue . This is why I push the drawing showing the orientation of the carb during measurement . If you don't hang that float vertically from it's pin , the measurement is dead wrong . This will make you appreciate the stock Toyota carb with it's sight glass , wish Weber had done that but Redline's involvement of the design negated such things due to "cost" and profit . I still say , beyond all my experience with Webers that you cannot beat a stock Toyota carb on a Land Cruiser inline six - it's just due to the design of the truck itself and the intake manifold . Other engines/vehicles I'd prefer the Weber , such as Sami's and Toyota 20/22 engines , Fiat , ect...

For my preference , the float bowl should be in the rear - vent modified above the bowl and you can climb angles until the truck tips over backwards . Proved it , many times and sold modded carbs/intakes for years here . My mods would make them run on their sides - literally .

Here is how to measure a Weber float properly -

This was a 38DGAS setup built/jetted for a modified 1.6L Tracker engine going into a Samurai -

I have a whole list of tech pages I wrote God only knows how many years ago on identifying every setup on a DGV and how to tune one to an engine . They are all older .doc files and I did get a reader installed on my laptop - just can't figure out how to load them up here .
If you guys want them , I can email the files to someone who knows how to post that stuff . There are pics and a guide to show exactly what everything does and it's location (such as high idle choke screw) .
I don't have the time/temperment to re-write all this stuff , done that so many times I don't build Webers anymore here ...

There was a huge thread done on the Toyota Tech section of the old Off Road .com forum - it had all this info and a lot more on differences in different Weber models , engine builds and so on - it was a real eye-bleeder to read . I had an archive someone from the forum had saved and had that bookmarked , trying to find it again since that info was so priceless to the offroad community and it was even linked to death even on foreign hot rod sites - just great info for anyone trying to tune/rebuild a Weber , mostly the DGV series . Anyone who had been on the ORC.com forum years ago probably already knows about it .

Holy crap - I found it . Huge thanks to Trollhole for hosting the archive and JohnnyC for getting it there after I sent it him -
http://www.trollholescruisers.com/tech/Weber%20Carb/weber
/ORC%20Weber%20Post%20-%20edited.pdf

There is also a whole list of other tech files in this thread , thanks to JohnnyC , again...

Post #18 -
Weber 38 DGAS : info + settings + tuning

Good luck reading ,
Sarge

 

[tls3601]

Get the Aisan..............got rid of the Weber on my brothers '76-runs great now.

 

[Boaf 32]

Yes , all modern Weber DGV carbs use a damper spring in the float valve - standard issue . This is why I push the drawing showing the orientation of the carb during measurement . If you don't hang that float vertically from it's pin , the measurement is dead wrong . This will make you appreciate the stock Toyota carb with it's sight glass , wish Weber had done that but Redline's involvement of the design negated such things due to "cost" and profit . I still say , beyond all my experience with Webers that you cannot beat a stock Toyota carb on a Land Cruiser inline six - it's just due to the design of the truck itself and the intake manifold . Other engines/vehicles I'd prefer the Weber , such as Sami's and Toyota 20/22 engines , Fiat , ect...

For my preference , the float bowl should be in the rear - vent modified above the bowl and you can climb angles until the truck tips over backwards . Proved it , many times and sold modded carbs/intakes for years here . My mods would make them run on their sides - literally .

Here is how to measure a Weber float properly -

View attachment 1241456

This was a 38DGAS setup built/jetted for a modified 1.6L Tracker engine going into a Samurai -

View attachment 1241457

I have a whole list of tech pages I wrote God only knows how many years ago on identifying every setup on a DGV and how to tune one to an engine . They are all older .doc files and I did get a reader installed on my laptop - just can't figure out how to load them up here .
If you guys want them , I can email the files to someone who knows how to post that stuff . There are pics and a guide to show exactly what everything does and it's location (such as high idle choke screw) .
I don't have the time/temperment to re-write all this stuff , done that so many times I don't build Webers anymore here ...

There was a huge thread done on the Toyota Tech section of the old Off Road .com forum - it had all this info and a lot more on differences in different Weber models , engine builds and so on - it was a real eye-bleeder to read . I had an archive someone from the forum had saved and had that bookmarked , trying to find it again since that info was so priceless to the offroad community and it was even linked to death even on foreign hot rod sites - just great info for anyone trying to tune/rebuild a Weber , mostly the DGV series . Anyone who had been on the ORC.com forum years ago probably already knows about it .

Holy crap - I found it . Huge thanks to Trollhole for hosting the archive and JohnnyC for getting it there after I sent it him -
http://www.trollholescruisers.com/tech/Weber%20Carb/weber
/ORC%20Weber%20Post%20-%20edited.pdf

There is also a whole list of other tech files in this thread , thanks to JohnnyC , again...

Post #18 -
Weber 38 DGAS : info + settings + tuning

Good luck reading ,
Sarge

Nice, I just got new reading glasses too...... Thanks for the photo.

Boaf