Weber 38 DGAS PROBLEMS!!

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Joined
May 14, 2008
Threads
17
Messages
62
Location
Austin, TX
So, my rig starts right up, vacuum looks good, but as it warms up and the choke butterfly starts to open the engine starts to run rough and soon thereafter dies...

Any words of wisdom?

1976 FJ40
2F Engine
Weber 38 DGAS
 
Fjforty: Yes if you pump the throttle it will rev up and run OK, but once you let the throttle go back to normal, it dies.

Pin_Head: When the engine first turns on and is running OK, the vacuum is rock solid at 19 inches, then once it starts to warm up and flaking out, the vacuum bounces all over the place, drops proportionally as the engine dies.

I used the vacuum line off the power booster.

I also installed a RemFlex, badass intake/exhaust manifold.

I can see how it looks like a vacuum leak, and hell it might be...

Oh, here is another little something the accelerator pump is leaking gas. Can this cause these issues?
 
A leaking accelerator pump will cause all sorts of funky problems. Pick up a rebuild kit and get intimate with it. Should only take a couple hours to thoroughly clean and rebuild. Once done, set the base line according to instructions.

Get the rebuild kit from Redline Weber. Repair kits gasket kits and Key repair parts

Then set the carb's base line settings. 38 DGAS Tunning
 
Fjforty: The truck was running perfect, but I don't get to drive it that often, so it sat for a while.

I noticed the leaking from the accelerator pump, and it still ran ok, but not as good as before.

One other thing that I noticed is that it would rev up then down, and continue up then down.

When it was running good, it was perfectly smooth.
 
Last edited:
About 1 - 2 turns out.View attachment 461728
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Couple more pictures.

Purchased the carb from Man a fre, not even 100 miles, and the accelerator pump is leaking....
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photo-5.webp
 
a few questions....that carb is way up there...why the black spacer at the bottom? did you check for leaks around those adapters? look for cracks on the intake maifold?

where is the line going off the top of the air cleaner adapter? thats not going to the manifold correct?

did you adjust out the idle screw?
 
All the spacers (which I don't like) are to provide the correct height when using the stock air cleaner.

Still need to spray some carb cleaner and check for leaks.

Is there a better method other than using carb cleaner?

The hose on the air cleaner assembly (on carb) goes back to the charcoal canister.

The idle screw is in about 1 turn in, if you adjust it all the way out the engine will not stay on and die.
 
i always just use the carb cleaner to test...some people use propane....but thats dangerous :)

you meen one turn out :)

yes it will not run right if you have it all the way out....turn them both in and then back out to 2.5 turns each.

I have seen the webers loosen up so much that you can take it and wiggle the carb back and forth.

you definitly will need to check for leaks before hand...then let us know what happened doing this.
 
Thanks guys, going vacuum leak hunting tomorrow, I'll let y'all know what I find.
 
I have a 38bgas and have a few questions. I want to change to a progressive because I always choke out when I hit the gas at low speeds. At high speed it really moves out. I also have a question about the tube going from my carb intake to the head toward the back. Segway....my fj60 has no cat will that run better than with it?

Please Advise
 
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