water pump replacement: a rundown of all the pieces I need

[JrJoorgawt]

For my own sanity, and for you to mock me openly

I'm replacing the water pump in my '85 FJ60. Obviously now is a good time to get everything done

So
As far as I can tell, I need

• water pump
• water pump gasket
• thermostat
• thermostat gasket
• hosing of some size (I don't know the size)
• either replace the rad or send it to a radiator shop for a flush

am I missing anything?

 

[OSS]

The thermostat has two gaskets. One on the bottom and a rubber ring on the top.

Use this link below to identify parts.

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 60FJ60LG-KA - TOOL-ENGINE-FUEL - RADIATOR WATER OUTLET | Japan Parts EU

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 60FJ60LG-KA , RADIATOR WATER OUTLET

www.japan-parts.eu

Replace the four thermostat bolts with new ones. (PN:91611-60845). Don’t reuse your old ones. Over time, the plating on the bolts corrodes off and then the bare steel rusts into the thermostat housing. If the bolts are left undisturbed long enough they’ll seize inside the the aluminum housing due to corrosion- and when trying to unscrew them - they break.
So replace them.
Use anti-seize grease on them too.

If you want to replace some hoses - I highly recommend using the Toyota hoses. Part numbers are available at that link above.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

For my own sanity, and for you to mock me openly

I'm replacing the water pump in my '85 FJ60. Obviously now is a good time to get everything done

So
As far as I can tell, I need

• water pump
• water pump gasket
• thermostat
• thermostat gasket
• hosing of some size (I don't know the size)
• either replace the rad or send it to a radiator shop for a flush

am I missing anything?

here is your list :

BIG CAP OEM TOYOTA JAPAN GENUINE NipponDenso Radiator Caps with SOLID Nickle Retainer Chains Early - 4/86 FJ40 FJ60 & ANY LAND CRUISER - VintageTEqParts.com

) OEM TOYOTA JAPAN NipponDenso Radiator Caps with SOLID Nickle Reproduction Retainer Chains Early - 4/86 FJ40 FJ60 & ANY...

vintageteqparts.com

OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts Water Pump Kit w/ Gasket 2F Egine YES Oil Cooler & WITH Fan Clutch OPTIONS Application Fits 1/75 - 1988 FJ40 , FJ55, FJ60 - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts 2F Engine With Oil Cooler & WITH Fan Clutch Application FJ40 / FJ60 1/75-1987 Come with...

vintageteqparts.com

OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts Water Pump HARDWARE KIT ONLY , Hose & Clamps 1/75-1987 ALL 2F - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts Water Pump Hardware ONLY Install Kit ALL Factory Mounting Hardware Included By-Path Hose & 2 Stainless...

vintageteqparts.com

#7 mark head Yellow Zinc Gold Plated Thermostat Housing Hardware Mounting KIT System F1.5 2F 3FE 1972- 1990 FJ40 FJ60 FJ55 FJ43 FJ62 4 BOLT KITS - VintageTEqParts.com

MADE IN JAPAN 8mm x 1.25 x 46mm LONG SOLD in SETs of qty x 4 only .......... J.I.S. SEMS...

vintageteqparts.com

OEM TOYOTA Thermostat 90916-03052 Fits1/79-1990 FJ60, FJ62 , FJ40 F2F 3FE TEMP. 88"c Celsius - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Thermostat 90916-03052 Fits 1/79-1990 FJ40 , FJ55, FJ60, fj62 3FE ,2F TEMP. 88"c Celsius

vintageteqparts.com

CONFIRM and VERIFY the fan clutch on your truck is OK ? if not here u go :

OEM Fan Clutch Fits 1/75 - 12/1989 2F / 3FE comes with ALL New OEM TOYOTA Mounting Hardware 4 Fan Nuts 4 Water Pump Nuts , Yellow JDM Zinc OEM part# Interchange : 1621061110, 1621061120, 1621061121, 1621061140 - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM Fan Clutch Fit 1/75 - 12/1989 2F / 3FE comes with ALL New OEM TOYOTA Mounting Hardware !...

vintageteqparts.com

i do NOT offer the single t-stat gaskets and o ring only in the master housings kit

ill toss them in with above on the house :



thanks



matt

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Gretsch]

As far as I can tell, I need

• water pump
• water pump gasket
• thermostat
• thermostat gasket
• hosing of some size (I don't know the size)
• either replace the rad or send it to a radiator shop for a flush

am I missing anything?

If its not been done relatively recently, you might think about replacing the timing cover seal and crank seal. Its one of those "while you're in there" items that is much easier with all the radiator out. Its quite a bit of extra work and requires a few extra bits to complete in the way of tools and additional parts and is fairly fiddly with how things need to be completed. Requires removing the crank pulley so again adds to the overall job. Everything is ripe for replacing if its not been done before on these trucks. View this as an opportunity to improve your cruiser. Take a romp through the FSM to see what's involved here.

FSM - 2F Engine Repair FSM 1991 printing

De-bound and good scan of manual. -Argyfoe

forum.ih8mud.com

Don't forget the little short hose for the oil cooler to water pump setup. I would use all Toyota for the hoses and clamps if you can swing it. Don't skimp on the hoses and clamps for this. Use the specific Toyota clamps and hoses. Nothing worse than getting all this put back only to discover you gotta do it again because the hoses you used suck. Whoever you sell this truck to will thank you. When I did this I went ahead and replaced all the hard lines for the lower radiator hose and the oil cooler hard lines as well. I had my radiator cleaned and serviced while I had it out. It lasted me about a year before I had to replace the whole thing with a new CSF due to a leak. Lots of repeated work for that so if I had to do it again I would have just replaced it then when doing the initial cooling system work. Get the WP and thermo housing gaskets gaskets from Toyota. The ASIN pump sold on Rock Auto should be the same pump Toyota sells you just without the Toyota badge on it. There is a gasket in the box but I would go with the Toyota gaskets. Much better quality.

More Information for AISIN WPT028

Can save you a little money there. As @OSS says, replace the thermo housing bolts with new and anti-seize grease on them when putting them back. Be mindful of the torque spec changes when using Anti-seize on bolts. I used all new mounting bolts when doing this on mine for everything. GL and HTH.

 

[Chris Cahill]

I would add that you will probably want to run a tap through the water pump mounting bolt holes and thermostat housing bolt holes for ease of re-installation and getting to the correct torque spec. If you re-use the water pump bolts you may want to run a die over them to clean them up.

 

[Chris Cahill]

Also if you order all new Toyota hoses (recommended) I think you will find there is one Toyota no longer makes. I ran into this 2 different times and took the old hoses to O'Reilly's. They let me go back to the hose rack and search for one that would work, and was able to find a Gates hose that was just fine. I should have written down the hose number but did not.

 

[Godwin]

Depending on what is replaced this could be a $600-$800 job in parts alone. Radiator at $400, water pump ca. $100, miscellaneous hoses and clamps add up, plus coolant. Fan clutch may need replacing. The fan is often overlooked and at 30 plus years old it may need replacing. Something to consider because brittle fan blades breaking can destroy a radiator.

Recently I did 3FE water pump job using an Aisin pump from Rock Auto and it had a leak between the backing plate and pump body. I had to pull the water pump and add sealant between the backing plate and pump body. A few weeks ago I did a water pump job on my 2F, again using Aisin pump from Rock Auto, only this time I preemptively sealed between the backing plate and pump body.

 

[Gretsch]

Fan clutch may need replacing. The fan is often overlooked and at 30 plus years old it may need replacing

Great point here. I did this when swapping pumps and my truck has never run cooler. Amazing the difference a working fan clutch and fan can make.

Recently I did 3FE water pump job using an Aisin pump from Rock Auto and it had a leak between the backing plate and pump body.

I used the rock auto pump and didn't have any issues with leaks on mine using the installed gasket that comes with it. I have heard of multiple folks having the same issue @Godwin mentions with the gasket between backing plate and pump body on the Aisin pumps however so it does not seem like his experience is an isolated one. Prolly good to proactively seal it up. I think there is a Toyota version which may work better than the one that comes with it. I admittedly do not recall if thats true however but would be worth checking it out. Maybe P/N 1612461013? Double check that though. Likely would work better. I used a small smear of WP sealant on the Toyota gasket between the block and pump. Worked well for me. HTH.

 

[rfj62]

Depending on what is replaced this could be a $600-$800 job in parts alone. Radiator at $400, water pump ca. $100, miscellaneous hoses and clamps add up, plus coolant. Fan clutch may need replacing. The fan is often overlooked and at 30 plus years old it may need replacing. Something to consider because brittle fan blades breaking can destroy a radiator.

Recently I did 3FE water pump job using an Aisin pump from Rock Auto and it had a leak between the backing plate and pump body. I had to pull the water pump and add sealant between the backing plate and pump body. A few weeks ago I did a water pump job on my 2F, again using Aisin pump from Rock Auto, only this time I preemptively sealed between the backing plate and pump body.

I just did the water pump on mine. I got the aisin pump and bought a Toyota gasket. There is definitely a difference. There is a bead around the opening on the Toyota, where there was not on the one with the Aisin one.

 

[Gretsch]

Interesting. I do not recall that bead on the gasket I got through my supplier at the time. It was a Toyota gasket, but no bead on it if memory serves. I just smeared it with some coolant safe glue and stuck it on. Wonder if that's even needed with the gasket shown. I don't think the FSM calls for anything other than the gasket but I opted to use some sealer to preemptively avoid having to re-do that work if a leak developed.

 

[rfj62]

Yeah, the Toyota definitely has a bead while the Aisin one is more felt like. Definitely made out of different material. The lower one is the actual one that came in the Aisin water pump.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

that bead is a NEW update design feature in last say 90 days or less approix....

 

[rfj62]

Can save you a little money there. As @OSS says, replace the thermo housing bolts with new and anti-seize grease on them when putting them back. Be mindful of the torque spec changes when using Anti-seize on bolts. I used all new mounting bolts when doing this on mine for everything. GL and HTH.

What’s the rule of thumb for figuring out the new torque values with Anti-seize. +/- a certain % of the torque figure?

Are people putting anti-sieze on the water pump studs / bolts?

 

[Gretsch]

What’s the rule of thumb for figuring out the new torque values with Anti-seize. +/- a certain % of the torque figure?

Generally the torque value to achieve the same clamp load with anti-seize compound will be lower than the stated torque value. I think a general rule of thumb lots of folks use is to reduce your torque spec by 25% from the stated torque. Responses to that question are varied so the answer is it can depend on a variety of factors (thread condition, bolt length, material, thread pitch, compound used, etc.) so YMMV there. I think the 25% is a good general rule for most applications. But like everything else you can get into the weeds with it.

I used Anti-seize on the bolts holding down the thremo housing cap and just backed off the stated value some without using an actual percentage. Nothing too scientific. Maybe torque -5 or something. Those bolts are fairly thin so maybe a little more easily broken if torqued too much. I got new bolts for this as my old ones were pretty beat. I also didn't slather up the entire bolt end to end. Just a little nip on the bolt end opposite of the bolt head about as wide as the brush width for the compound. I cannot remember now but I do not recall putting Anti-seize anywhere else with this repair. That's how I did it with no issues in several years now.

Have a romp through this thread maybe:

Anti-seize and over torquing bolts

Interesting article on Rock Auto's "My Garage" section of their newsletter concerning the use of anti-seize and torque settings. It never occurred to me that you should adjust the torque you apply if you use anti-seize on bolts. Here's a link to the page - RockAuto July Newsletter :: Early...

forum.ih8mud.com

Some info around this question there.

Additional info:

https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

HTH.

 

[rfj62]

I think a general rule of thumb lots of folks use is to reduce your torque spec by 25% from the stated torque. Responses to that question are varied so the answer is it can depend on a variety of factors (thread condition, bolt length, material, thread pitch, compound used, etc.) so YMMV there. I think the 25% is a good general rule for most applications

Thanks for the info! Will definitely go with the 25% reduced torque from now on.

that bead is a NEW update design feature in last say 90 days or less approix....

Interesting that they would redesign something after 30 years. Must have been getting complaints of a lot of failures?..?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

that bead is a NEW update design feature in last say 90 days or less approix....

It’s much older than that, this photo is 5-6 years old. I don’t recall seeing them without the sealant bead in the last decade or more. Perhaps y’all are looking at a different design difference?

PS, I owe you a call! Crazy busy with a bunch of projects and prepping for Cruise Moab.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

It’s much older than that, this photo is 5-6 years old. I don’t recall seeing them without the sealant bead in the last decade or more. Perhaps y’all are looking at a different design difference?

View attachment 2988776

PS, I owe you a call! Crazy busy with a bunch of projects and prepping for Cruise Moab.

call now , im wrapping up packing boxes for the day perfect timing


i have NEVER seen the bead before ?

i order part # 16271-60012



that gasket above looks very NON-2F ?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

It’s much older than that, this photo is 5-6 years old. I don’t recall seeing them without the sealant bead in the last decade or more. Perhaps y’all are looking at a different design difference?

View attachment 2988776

PS, I owe you a call! Crazy busy with a bunch of projects and prepping for Cruise Moab.

Thanks for the info! Will definitely go with the 25% reduced torque from now on.



Interesting that they would redesign something after 30 years. Must have been getting complaints of a lot of failures?..?

16271-61020 is for a 3FE ........​

N. America	01/1990-12/1997	TOYOTA LAND CRUISER	FJ80,FZJ80	16-01: WATER PUMP
	Model Dates:	Matching Models:	Model Options:	Links to diagrams:
	01/1990-07/1992	FJ80L-GNPNEA	3FE, ATM	16-01

 

[cruiseroutfit]

call now , im wrapping up packing boxes for the day perfect timing


i have NEVER seen the bead before ?

i order part # 16271-60012



that gasket above looks very NON-2F ?

60012 is the 75-87 2F, no bead OE or aftermarket
61020 is the 3F w/bead on OE only

I have a suspicion @rfj62 has a 3F

2F

3F