Water Pump gasket surface pitted

[Ayune]

Fully involved in a water pump/timing belt job. The last person installed a Gates pump and some sort of flat fiber gasket that just started leaking after 73k miles.

The gasket was basically fused to the block, but after hours of razor blading and Dremel’ing with an abrasive pad I managed to get the gasket material off. However, the sealing face of the block is pitted in a pattern that matches the OEM gasket’s rubber seal. The pitting follows the gasket about one-third of the way around. I’m wondering if the last installer opted to use a non-OEM flat gasket to seal up the pitted grooves...

Has anyone seen this before? Am I good to use the OEM gasket? Should I use another flat gasket? The sealing surface is otherwise flat and smooth besides the pitting. Thank you!

 

[flintknapper]

Looks to be fairly minor in depth, but to be safe a 'flat gasket' will fill any voids the best.

Better than what I found on my mine (not pitted) but siliconed in place. Like to never got it off.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

You’ll prob get varying opinions on this, but personally I would use the FIPG for coolant (08826-00100, I think?) to fill in the pitting, use a plastic putty knife to flatten it out so that it’s level with the surrounding surface, and then let the FIPG cure completely before putting the WP gasket and WP on. I’ve used this approach in the past to fill in pitting on the t-stat housing, etc.

 

[LXKevin]

 

[AlpineAccess]

You’ll prob get varying opinions on this, but personally I would use the FIPG for coolant (08826-00100, I think?) to fill in the pitting, use a plastic putty knife to flatten it out so that it’s level with the surrounding surface, and then let the FIPG cure completely before putting the WP gasket and WP on. I’ve used this approach in the past to fill in pitting on the t-stat housing, etc.

This was my leaning as well. Light skim of FIPG, let cure, flat razor any excess so only the pitting has FIPG in it, then go with your kits gasket.

 

[Ayune]

Thank you gentlemen! I’ll be skim-coating the sealing surface then kicking back for 12-24 hours.

 

[AlpineAccess]

For posterity, if someone finds this thread in the future, a brass wire wheel on a drill will make quick work of gasket remnants without marring the mating surface, so long as you don't hang in one spot for too long or use excessive pressure.

 

[flintknapper]

Thank you gentlemen! I’ll be skim-coating the sealing surface then kicking back for 12-24 hours.

I'm going to be 'odd man out' on this. IF a person needs to address any significant pitting then the pitting should be filled (and brought to surface level) with something more substantial than FIPG.

A thin (at best a couple of mils) of FIPG is not a very strong material. I would wager most flat gaskets are stronger (per the same thickness) than FIPG is for the purpose of flowing into a shallow void.

The OEM metal gasket is designed to be used against two flat, HARD surfaces since it relies upon the raised portion being a 'crush' fit.

IF coolant got under/around the OEM gasket and perfectly flat surfaces to start with (causing the corrosion) how well is it going to seal against soft FIPG? (I know we are talking relatively low pressures).

Sure, it won't leak at first (maybe never)....but it seems an iffy repair to me. Just my .0002 on it. I'd go flat gasket.


Note: The pitting we see is the result of galvanic corrosion. Two dissimilar metals in contact with another. For this to happen they would need to be subjected to an electrolyte (in this case the coolant). Using metal gaskets (as Toyota often does) provides a STRONG gasket but not necessarily the wisest choice as evidenced by corrosion we often find.

 

[Skidoo]

I have had great success with Permatex High Tack link. It keep fluids from creeping between edges of gaskets. Also use it on hose to metal hose fittings to protect the metal. And its non-hardening, so easier to remove..

 

[flintknapper]

I have had great success with Permatex High Tack link. It keep fluids from creeping between edges of gaskets. Also use it on hose to metal hose fittings to protect the metal. And its non-hardening, so easier to remove..

^^^^

Good stuff on cork and paper gaskets for sure. I don't have any experience with it outside of that....but I DO know a can of it will store forever. It never seems to go bad. If the Egyptians would have had it....we'd have perfectly preserved mummies today.

 

[Ayune]

So I applied some 1282B FIPG to the pitted surfaces and squeegeed them flat. The next morning I carefully razor-bladed off the excess and the surface turned out glassy smooth. We’ll see if it holds up with the OEM rubber gasket.

You can clearly see the pattern of the pitting. Thank you @2001LC for the timely video!

 

[Njck22]

So I applied some 1282B FIPG to the pitted surfaces and squeegeed them flat. The next morning I carefully razor-bladed off the excess and the surface turned out glassy smooth. We’ll see if it holds up with the OEM rubber gasket.

You can clearly see the pattern of the pitting. Thank you @2001LC for the timely video!

View attachment 2559063

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How’d this hold up? Currently doing a timing belt on a 5VZ-FE and have the same corrosion ring pattern.
Thanks!

 

[Ayune]

How’d this hold up? Currently doing a timing belt on a 5VZ-FE and have the same corrosion ring pattern.
Thanks!

So far so good after 11k miles.

 

[04UZJ100]

I would suggest using something like this…..

Materials to repair and protect from erosion and corrosion

Belzona product lines are manufactured to resolve many problems and to eliminate the need for disassembly, welding, and post weld heat treatment.

www.belzona.com

 

[JunkCrzr89]

How’d this hold up? Currently doing a timing belt on a 5VZ-FE and have the same corrosion ring pattern.
Thanks!

So far so good after 11k miles.

Mine is also good after 30k miles.

 

[98100Crusher]

Should the water pump mounting surface be completely flat? I'm assuming yes based on other photos and discussion but I figured it wouldn't hurt to triple check before removing material on the mating surface. Photo attached of the surface of mine. It has a hardened raised lip that I'm thinking was gasket material from either the factory or the timing belt job that was done by prior owner at 130k (truck has 175k now). I'm doing it at 175 because I had no documentation on the job so I didn't know what components had been replaced at 130k and there was a slow oil leak (probably TM belt tensioner threads were not sealed).

 

[JunkCrzr89]

That’s just old gasket material. Scrape it off with a razor blade. You have a lot still on there in addition to that spot that needs scraped off.

 

[Thesierrasurfer]

How is this holdling up now? having similar issues ! Already had failed water pump seal . Cannot afford to do it again. Has anyone filled the holes and then slapped a bead on the metal gasket for extra insurance ? Stuff is expensive but who knows if I’ll ever use it again

 

[Ayune]

How is this holdling up now? having similar issues ! Already had failed water pump seal . Cannot afford to do it again. Has anyone filled the holes and then slapped a bead on the metal gasket for extra insurance ? Stuff is expensive but who knows if I’ll ever use it again

Been almost 3yrs and 23k miles and haven’t lost a drop of coolant.

 

[Malleus]

I surprised no one mentioned this