*** WARNING *** Man-A-Fre panhard drop bracket issue (1 Viewer)

[Dusty]

couple pics

lots of room before that crossmember

 

[landtank]

Dusty, I can't get a riser the correct length for a 4" lift in there that will clear the cross member on full compression. I actually cut the steel and placed it in the axle pocket and it's a no go. Now I could bump stop the axle so it would fit but that's counter productive to what I want.

I drew the axle and frame up in AutoCad and by raising the axle mount by 4" you raise the point of contact by the tire by 2". How are you determining it's worse?

 

[Dusty]

Dusty, I can't get a riser the correct length for a 4" lift in there that will clear the cross member on full compression. I actually cut the steel and placed it in the axle pocket and it's a no go. Now I could bump stop the axle so it would fit but that's counter productive to what I want.

I drew the axle and frame up in AutoCad and by raising the axle mount by 4" you raise the point of contact by the tire by 2". How are you determining it's worse?

you must be right. you have the oe axle and frame sitting at your house. but i can tell you that if you move the entire setup to the way i have it you will have no problem

I am figuring the "worse" case scenerio to be with the pass side rear at full droop with the driver side rear at full stuff. i immagine this to cause a greater problem if we move the axle side panhard mount up. I need to know this. perhaps you could post up your cad mock up?

 

[landtank]

I'm not about to FUBAR my rear axle just to get a panhard riser under there. The drawings are gone so you'll just have to trust me on this one. By raising the axle mount you are raising the axle's rolling center point by half of the amount you raise the mount. So a 4" riser increase the rolling center by 2".

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

you must be right. you have the oe axle and frame sitting at your house. but i can tell you that if you move the entire setup to the way i have it you will have no problem

I am figuring the "worse" case scenerio to be with the pass side rear at full droop with the driver side rear at full stuff. i immagine this to cause a greater problem if we move the axle side panhard mount up. I need to know this. perhaps you could post up your cad mock up?

Wouldnt you A frame the rear, with all that fab, to keep a better roll centre than keep the panhard ?

 

[Dusty]

I'm not about to FUBAR my rear axle just to get a panhard riser under there. The drawings are gone so you'll just have to trust me on this one. By raising the axle mount you are raising the axle's rolling center point by half of the amount you raise the mount. So a 4" riser increase the rolling center by 2".

yeah you would need to extend the bump stops to go higher on the panhard and extending the bumps is not ideal.

Wouldnt you A frame the rear, with all that fab, to keep a better roll centre than keep the panhard ?

I would (or 4 link) but the gas tank is in the way and i dont want to run tiny little upper links

 

[landtank]

is there a reason why we don't fab a bracket for the panhard in the center of the axle and use a bar that is half as long?

It would seem tha the center of the axle has less vertical travel through the range of flexing the axle either way so it would be more stable and not hit the cross member like out at the end.

Actually I think the bracket would actauly move away from th ecross member when the axle was flexed.

 

[Dusty]

never seen it done rick but there are lots of rigs out there running short front trackbars without too much of a problem so a short rear bar would certainly would work as long as it was flat and didn't droop too buch (so as to pull the axle to one side.) high speed bouncy stuff would be less than pleasant with a short bar but for rock crawlin it would be fine. so do it

 

[riberware]

I just bought a used panhard drop bracket from the ih8mud classifieds. This is what I understood:

I need to get the genuine Toyota bolt, washer and nut to make this bracket work properly and safely?

bolt = 90105-18006
nut = 90170-18007
washer = 90201-19011

 

[riberware]

Other question,


My EPC shows 90105-18007 for the panhard bolt, is this correct??? or do I need a different bolt: 90105-18006 ?


Ricky

 

[landtank]

I really don't know what your asking. If you are replacing the stock pan hard bolt then order that bolt, whatever the number is. This thread points out the need to order the hardware I listed to replace the bolt that came in the kit.

 

[riberware]

I want to replace the bolt that came with the kit...

but I noticed that the part number for the bolt that you posted is different from what I found on the Toyota EPC for the OEM bolt on my cruiser (last digit is different).

 

[landtank]

I want to replace the bolt that came with the kit...

the problem is, you don't know what you bought or how it installs. So you can either trust what I posted or wait for your bracket to understand what is going on.

This whole thread was about replacing the bolt that comes with the kit with a factory equivalent.

 

[FirstToy]

is there a reason why we don't fab a bracket for the panhard in the center of the axle and use a bar that is half as long?

I was driving behind a Dodge Durango and noticed an unusual rear link setup. It wasn't a panhard but a Watts link setup.
the disadvantages I see are added complexity and vulnerablility to rocks from to the lower center link.
advantages- it looks like more control/less sway and is more compact.

Maybe Darren's version in post #16 is more appropriate.

just some ref. pics below

 

[riberware]

True, actually I’ve only seen that bracket in pictures, I just want to prevent, that’s why I’ve spent like 100 hours reading these forums learning from other cruiser owners experiences.

 

[unwiredadventures]

So you can either trust what I posted or wait for your bracket to understand what is going on.

This whole thread was about replacing the bolt that comes with the kit with a factory equivalent.

I ordered from CDan the part numbers you mentioned in your post. I should have them tomorrow. If it all works out, I'll install this week.

 

[riberware]

Luckily I've been cleaning out my garage and stumbled on a box of bolts from about 6 years ago and they had a set for the rear mount for our front control arms. Right size, class and thread pitch for this repair.

Toyota part numbers are:

bolt = 90105-18006
nut = 90170-18007
washer = 90201-19011

I'm a dumbass I didn't read this part...

 

[coffeecup66]

if you look at the bolt the shaft has worn away and it was sloppy in the bushing's hole. The bolt also had loosened some. Right now I'm in the middle of making a raised bracket for the axle and eliminating the drop bracket completely.

Tank! Love the seat extension BTW. How did this bracket turn out. I can't find any front or rear panhard drop brackets for my '97 LX450. Planning on a 3' HD OME lift (J springs and sport nitro shocks) but realized at last minute that i should have all future added weight (front and rear bumpers and sliders) on truck prior to lift or i would have some unwelcome handling characteristics. Brackets seem like a better fix because they keep a closer to stock panhard angle. Also, since I on the subject did I see some state that a front panhard drop bracket would interfere with the pitman arm(?)(I'm a coffee roaster, not a mechanic). If this lift is seriously only 3", after a LSPV adjustment do i need to worry about other mods.

Please help, "worried and obsessed" in Sonora.

 

[GW Nugget]

@NXLANCY did landtank ever make this lower axle raised mount?

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

@NXLANCY did landtank ever make this lower axle raised mount?

And the riser is a dead project. To build it correctly with a 4" rise it will hit the cross member above it. So I buttoned up the panhard with the new hardware and am calling it done


As of post 7 in this thread It was a dead project. Good Luck..! But that was long ago..!