i am buying a 2000 cruiser 100 series with 211k miles and live in NC so i cannot see it and it is at a dealer. exterior and interior look very good, but i asked the guy to send me a few photos of underneath. does this rear axle look like it will be a problem to change fluids and service? it has factory rear locker. thanks for your help. i don't want to find out i break a bolt and have to get a new rear axle or spend a ton on a differential. it looks like it hasnt been serviced in forever.
wanting to buy a 2000 cruiser from illinois-rust issue question.
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the problem is he bought it at auction and doesn't have the service records. he is asking 6999.00 but i think i'll offer him 6k, JIC i need to replace belt or other small issues.
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- #4
carfax shows clean title, no accidents and only 3-owners.
I'd want more pictures showing every inch. Don't buy rust, that said the rust I see here is no big deal. Price sound good, just plan on base-lining all fluid, oils, greases (wheel bearings, u-joint & slip-joints), belts, idler & tensioner pulls, water pump, filters & plugs ~$1K if DIY.
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its a 99 i just found out. underbelly doesn't look that bad as you state. would it really be 1k to do all this? are you meaning replace water pump and just replace ujoints, plus grease and change brake pads/drums, change belts? that seems steep as i have done this on many jeeps and never come close to that? as this would be my first cruiser, are parts just expensive for them or with this mileage, does it need a major tuneup?
Run away,fast.
I spent many, many years in the midwest. I'd rather deal with just about anything other than rust.
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That rust is nothing compared to what I had on my 98. I never had any issues servicing the vehicle. I would by rust free if possible but that rust is not concerning.
It will be $1000 in parts, easy. Each part is not that much, but buying a 14 year old vehicle with 211,000 miles with no service history and without a test drive, be assured you'll have a lot of parts to buy. At this age and mileage, service history is important because you have no idea what's been cared for and what's been neglected. I'm with Christo on this one (unless you specifically want a "project truck"). The key line in your post: "It looks like it hasn't been serviced in forever."
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i really appreciate all the feedback. i've bought 4 jeeps used over the years, but all local and am wanting a cruiser, but they are hard to find locally. i have looking on craiglist and ebay for the last several months within the central/eastern regions, plus this site of course. just last week i paid for two 100's to be inspected by independent toyota dealerships in texas and florida. both cars were rust free but obtained from other parties c/o a detailed service record. both sellers swore they were in great shape. both came back from dealership (knowing that i was not buying from them many miles away so one would suspect they had nothing to gain and were honest as i spoke with them myself and they seemed genuine) needing 1500-2500 worth of work. so i called sellers to tweek the prices, they said the guys at toyota dealerships must be crazy. WTF???? i may just pay the extra cash and get one with low miles. thx again to all who answered me and i'll stay away from this one christo. scott
Wheel bearings can be repacked (although FSM states replace); grease & new seals ~$50. Timing belt, idler pulleys and water pump replace $350. Serpentine belt, idler & tensioner pulleys replace ~$200. Transmission flush with M1 SYN multi 14qt (12qt cap) ~$140. PS flush ~$10. Coolant replace w/Toyota red $40. Heater hose tee ~$10. Radiator cap $10. Gas cap $10. Gear lubes M1 syn $40. Spark plugs ~$70. Air filter $20. PCV value, grommet & hose $40. Fuel filter $35. Propeller shafts and u-joints (spider joints) grease ~$10. Brake pads and turn rotors ~$120. Shocks ~$200. Alignment ~$60. Balance and rotation ~$35 (free for life). (All lubes synthetic)
Just estimates on prices of materials and some parts may not need replacing. You can just drive, its a tank and timing belt failure will just strand you (no reports of damage to engine in MUD). I spend ~$4,000 on parts & lubes over 100,000 miles in 10 years, plus $1,200 shop time & tires and $1,000 in self cleaning car wash.
Most people spend much more than they think on maintenance and fuel. I keep logs (habit form military & aircraft) which show Fuel ($.197) & Maintenance ($.064) at $.261 a mile. I do most all labor myself and have recorded only 95% of expenses but get near wholesale on most parts.
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