Wandering 40

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 8, 2005
Threads
151
Messages
789
Location
Blandon Pa
My 78 Fj40 wanders where ever she pleases when I'm cruising down the road. I have new tie rod ends I will put on but I'm not sure that will take care of it, I'm thinking the center arm might be worn out or in need of adjustment, can someone direct me or show me how to adjust it or rebuild it, and any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Steve
 
do a search on wonder or death wobble you should find alot of info. mine use to fallow ruts in the road after a front end rebuild so i took it into the local tire place (les schwab) were i got my tires and they adjusted the caster for free and it drives perfect now.
 
Last edited:
Thank's, I'll check it out.
 
Center arm, rag joint, leaf spring bushing and knuckle rebuild. There's also an adjustment on the first joint connected to the pitman arm off the steering box.

Use the search Luke (and the Technical Links link at the top).
 
do a search on wonder or death wobble you should find alot of info. mine use to fallow ruts in the road after a front end rebuild so i took it into the local tire place (les schwab) were i got my tires and they adjusted the caster for free and it drives perfect now.

Les Schwab adjusted the caster for free? Did they put in wedges?
 
Another thing to think about, as some have mentioned already, is castor plays a big factor in "wander". If you have longer than stock shackles up front, your castor may be off. The only way to fix that is with shims between your axle and leaf springs. Do a search and you will get a ton of info.

Good luck!
 
Les Schwab adjusted the caster for free? Did they put in wedges?

I'm thinking he meant toe. I barely (and rarely) trust Schwabbie's to tighten my lug nuts correctly. I certainly wouldn't let them anywhere near my u-bolts.
 
the procedure for tightening the center joint: first grease the poo out of it with the grease fitting, then loosen the small bolt in the middle, using the larger nut on the base tighten until it is seated. Once seated, back off 1/8 a turn. then tighten the small bolt in the center to LOCK it into place.

If you still have play in the center arm, replace it. I would not bother with the rebuild kits that are out there as most are junk. You can get a new fuji joint (Oem vendor) from maf for about 25 dollars more than a crappy rebuild kit.

Also check the play in the joint associated with the steering arm at the box, I can't remember the name of it, but this can get worn as well. Most people never grease this joint which would leave me to believe it wears out a bit.

Also mentioned above the castor (do a search on this!!) will effect your handling quite a bit, if you have no lift on the truck it shouldn't be an issue though. Good Luck
 
Thank you everybody for the good info. Alot of it makes sense because since I have put on 2 1/2 inch above stock Hell for stout shackles it seems a little worse.I'll look up (castor) like some of you guys said, I didn't realize you could adjust the castor on this front end I thought only the toe could be adjusted.First I'll try what F-junker said.
 
Alot of it makes sense because since I have put on 2 1/2 inch above stock Hell for stout shackles it seems a little worse.

That will do it. You need to correct your castor. To do this, get steel castor correction shims. You will probably need at least a 4* shim, but the best way to do it is to figure out what your castor angle is currently. Then shim it accordingly. Remember, the fat part of the shim goes forward (towards the shackle).

Good luck! :cheers:
 
hey brian in oregon, i dont remember if they used shims or what. it was a few years back but they did adjust toe in too . i replaced all tie rods and did a lift and power stering and set the toe in myself and it drove great but it liked to follow ruts in the road so i took it to them. i went to school with the manager and have known some of the guys for over 16 years and do a lot of business with them so they take good care of me.
 
Hey, Colorado Boy stopped by tonight. He just installed a new steering stabilizer on his FJ40, and said it greatly cured wandering (not to be confused with the "death wobble").

We went over to NAPA, and I ordered the same one he installed, a Monroe with NAPA P/N SC2916 ($40.79). It bolts directly in place of the OEM unit, but the kit lacks the bolt that goes to the frame mount. You'll need a suitable 1/2" bolt, nut and lockwasher. The other end is furnished with a carriage bolt.
 
This is a copy and paste

The first things I would look to in an FJ40 that likes to dart, wander and pull are as follows; If it has extended shackles, make sure it has caster shims installed. Lack of these will mean that the factory caster setting is not obtained, and this will usually make the rig dart like a teenager in a shopping mall. If there is any reason to suspect that the Ubolts have ever been replaced, or even loosened and retightened, make sure they are tight. The only way to properly tighten these is with the weight off the axle (ie: with a jack under the SPRING supporting the weight while the Ubolts are checked and tightened if need be). Check the spring bushings. These are usually pretty hammered by 60,000 miles or so. Worn bushings will allow the entire front suspension to shift from side to side. Don't forget the rear end as well. While you are looking at springs and attachment points, make sure the shackles are straight, and not bent. Hard wheeling can be tough on these parts, and "s" shaped factory shackles are not uncommon. Tighten up the center arm pivot. This is made to be adjusted on a regular basis, to account for wear. Often it is not. The center arm should rotate smoothly around the pivot, with no side to side,or fore and aft movement. If tighening the pivot doesn't remove all the slop, then the pivot need to be rebuilt or replaced. Check the steering box itself for slop. There is an adjustment screw on the engine side of the box to tighten this up as well. While you are at it, make sure it is properly lubed. Check all the tie rod ends for any play. They should spin in their sockets as needed, but there should be no discernable side to side motion in any of them. Check the factory steering stabilizer for any sign of leakage or damage. If you detect any, remove one end from the linkage, and make sure that it is still functioning correctly. it should slide in and out smoothly without binding, but it shouldn't do so easily. On the subject of steering stabilizers... I personally prefer the aftermarket type which attaches to the tie rod, rather than the replacment type which mounts in the factory location. Two reasons. First, you can run these type in addition to the factory unit, as opposed to instead of it. More importantly, by attaching to the tie rod, you further isolate the tie rod ends and the center pivot units from the road shock than you can with the factory location. An additional stabilizer to complement the factory unit can help with rut following and darting on ineven road surfaces too. Make sure that your wheel and knuckle bearings are in good shape. Any looseness at these points will translate in to improper alignment, and slop in the sterering too. Knuckle bearings in particular will contribute to erratic handling. Many FJ40s will have never had the adjustment of the draglink tightened (heck many have never seen any front end service). This adjustment at the rear of the draglink will compensate fot wear to the "ball joint" at the pittman arm, and can account for a lot of steering system slop. When you get all of these wear points and potential mechanical flaws inspected and serviced as required, then get the front end aligned. The only factor that is intended to be adjusted it the toe in, but this will also tell you if any other alignment consideration is out of parameters. Caster can be altered with shims (as it must be when longer shackles are fitted). Camber can also be altered with special lower knuckle bearing mounts, but I have never seen these available anywhere in the US. I am only aware of them on the Austrailian market, but they may very well be available here, and I am simply unaware of it. Regardless, if you caster is off for an reason other than extended shackles, or your camber is off at all, you have either missed some damaged suspension (not steering) components, or you have a bent axle (not common at all in Cruisers, but still possible if it has been wheeled REAL hard). The factory stock steering and suspension of a Cruiser is a bit higher maintenance than many rigs if you want to keep ing in top condition. It can be improved on in many cases, and it is not a Porsch by any stretch of the imagination. But once you get it to a correct state of maintenance it is fairly easy to keep it that way, and it will serve you well.
 
I'm thinking he meant toe. I barely (and rarely) trust Schwabbie's to tighten my lug nuts correctly. I certainly wouldn't let them anywhere near my u-bolts.




MY THOUGHTS EXACTLY SCHWABBIE SUCKS AND IT REALLY SUCKS WHEN THEY ARE ALL YOU HAVE
 
Here is a question I have been pondering. How much do the king pin bearings affect wander? During my rebuild I replaced mine, and had no idea how bad they were until I got them out, had grooves worn in by the rollers.
 
Thank you everybody for the good info. Alot of it makes sense because since I have put on 2 1/2 inch above stock Hell for stout shackles it seems a little worse.I'll look up (castor) like some of you guys said, I didn't realize you could adjust the castor on this front end I thought only the toe could be adjusted.First I'll try what F-junker said.

kid,

You can't "adjust" the caster, you have to add shims to change it as the other guys said. Go to sor.com and do a search in the on-line catalog for shackles and you'll find a table telling you what shims you need for the length shackles you're running.

Pete
 
I installed and road tested the Monroe steering stabilizer.

It was noticably stiffer than the worn out original. You can easily move the original, but the new unit takes auite a bit of effort.

The old unit was a bitch to get out. Had to use a big "pickle fork" and beat the crap outta it.

The Monroe is a different setup. Instead of using bronze bushings with tapered ball joints, it simply has rubber bushed ends. Large bolts with a proper shoulder are supplied, but, there were a couple minor glitches with them. First, the tapered holes were slightly too small at one end. A large drill bit took care of that. The other is the supplied washer is way too thick. I used thinner washers, and it assembled just fine.

One annoyance is that no boot is supplied. I supposed that's because they're available in a variety of colors. I ordered one in black.

BTW, you'll need a 2-1/8" wrench or a crescent that can open that big, and a 3/4" wrench to install the Monroe, along with a large pickle fork to get the old one out (assuming it's OEM or OEM style).

Road test - Haven't had it on a badly grooved road yet, but it does feel less susceptible to wander on less than perfect roads.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom