With some trepidation, I installed a Walker muffler on my '99 LX. $118 from Rock Auto, but I got an un-used one from a fellow MUDder. My OEM muffler was leaking water through rust holes at 300K+ miles.
The good news: that the muffler basically fits and can work, and is quiet - maybe not 100% as quiet as the factory trash-can sized muffler, but I can't find it noticeably louder at any RPM. Critically, the inlet pipes are in the right place and mate easily to the factory pipes from the cats. It is much smaller and lighter and offers more clearance, if that matters. It's stainless steel, which is a huge win for rust-belt folks.
The bad news: hangers (3) on my muffler were grossly in the wrong place, and I heated them with a cutting torch (oxy-acet) and bent them extensively to approximate the factory muffler location. Fortunately, the hangers are long enough to still be usable after bending. The outlet of the muffler is just a stub with no way to connect it to the factory tailpipe. I emailed Walker and they told me that (while this is 'ahem' - a 'bolt on solution') they let you figure out the tailpipe end because that's how Toyotas are. Thanks! But, with a single 2 1/4 internal-to-2 1/4-external adapter you modify, and 2 muffler clamps, you're in business.
Enough blather - onto the pix. The first photo shows the hangers I had to bend - they are fairly stout, so heating them made it less likely they'd snap off the muffler. Murphy's Law and all....
Second photo - see the red circle - there's a embossed pip inside the tailpipe that prevents an adapter from sliding in (the factory muffler locks into this pip).
Third photo - the adapter you need is 2 1/4 external to 2 1/4 internal. Advance Auto was the only chain store I found that still sells exhaust adapters.
Fourth photo - I slotted the adapter (small side) to clear the pip. At this point the entire affair slides together under the truck. You have to juggle getting the 3 'rubber bands' onto the exhaust hangers as you engage the tailpipe. Use WD40 as lube for this. The last step is attaching the inlet pipes with new gaskets from Toyota or Walker. I used all new bolts/nuts with anti-seize on them.
Fifth photo - shows slotted adapter slid into tailpipe.
When doing any exhaust work, before you tighten any clamps, check clearances between the tailpipe/muffler and any suspension components and wiring. Push the muffler as far away as possible, then tighten the clamps. You want 1/2" or more of clearance around the pipes, or you may get a clunking sound down the road when your exhaust system shifts a bit.
So, with minor fabrication, this exhaust job isn't too terrible. But, like all 'bolt on' solutions, some fabbing and creativity is required.
The good news: that the muffler basically fits and can work, and is quiet - maybe not 100% as quiet as the factory trash-can sized muffler, but I can't find it noticeably louder at any RPM. Critically, the inlet pipes are in the right place and mate easily to the factory pipes from the cats. It is much smaller and lighter and offers more clearance, if that matters. It's stainless steel, which is a huge win for rust-belt folks.
The bad news: hangers (3) on my muffler were grossly in the wrong place, and I heated them with a cutting torch (oxy-acet) and bent them extensively to approximate the factory muffler location. Fortunately, the hangers are long enough to still be usable after bending. The outlet of the muffler is just a stub with no way to connect it to the factory tailpipe. I emailed Walker and they told me that (while this is 'ahem' - a 'bolt on solution') they let you figure out the tailpipe end because that's how Toyotas are. Thanks! But, with a single 2 1/4 internal-to-2 1/4-external adapter you modify, and 2 muffler clamps, you're in business.
Enough blather - onto the pix. The first photo shows the hangers I had to bend - they are fairly stout, so heating them made it less likely they'd snap off the muffler. Murphy's Law and all....
Second photo - see the red circle - there's a embossed pip inside the tailpipe that prevents an adapter from sliding in (the factory muffler locks into this pip).
Third photo - the adapter you need is 2 1/4 external to 2 1/4 internal. Advance Auto was the only chain store I found that still sells exhaust adapters.
Fourth photo - I slotted the adapter (small side) to clear the pip. At this point the entire affair slides together under the truck. You have to juggle getting the 3 'rubber bands' onto the exhaust hangers as you engage the tailpipe. Use WD40 as lube for this. The last step is attaching the inlet pipes with new gaskets from Toyota or Walker. I used all new bolts/nuts with anti-seize on them.
Fifth photo - shows slotted adapter slid into tailpipe.
When doing any exhaust work, before you tighten any clamps, check clearances between the tailpipe/muffler and any suspension components and wiring. Push the muffler as far away as possible, then tighten the clamps. You want 1/2" or more of clearance around the pipes, or you may get a clunking sound down the road when your exhaust system shifts a bit.
So, with minor fabrication, this exhaust job isn't too terrible. But, like all 'bolt on' solutions, some fabbing and creativity is required.
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