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ARCHIVE Victory4x4 prototyping part 2 (11 Viewers)

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I haven't noticed any potential abrasion of the winch rope at the bumper slot, but I should check it since you reminded me of that.
 
Are you sure you’ve heard this issue about the V4x4 bumper? I’ve definitely heard about winch alignment issues with the DV8.
 
Anyone else’s latch look like this after 4 months?
A4B35F23-A065-4E8A-8A80-DCFC8F7A6B25.jpeg
 
Anyone else’s latch look like this after 4 months?View attachment 3265880
Proper "De-Sta Co" clamps shouldn't do it. I have de sta co clamp on my rear swing and 4 years later, just fine. You may want to swap that out for one or just juice it up with a wire brush and some WD-40.
 
Proper "De-Sta Co" clamps shouldn't do it. I have de sta co clamp on my rear swing and 4 years later, just fine. You may want to swap that out for one or just juice it up with a wire brush and some WD-40.
A buddy of mine had his installed a month or so before mine and his is rusting too, but he said mine is worse. I’m gonna take it off and wire brush it when I put the passenger side carrier on.
 
Had anyone has issues with fitment/angle/clearance on the Strike front bumper on a 10-13?

Am I correct in assuming that there's really not much positional adjustment on these? The 14 attachment bolts lock the bumper I'm place in all three dimension, front to back (4 bolts per side), top to bottom, 2 bolts per side over the plates, and side to side by the 2 big bolts you drill holes for.

My bumper is slightly mis-aligned left to right, with a bit of a twist. Not sure if this is something I screwed up during install, or if it was just welded slightly off, or if my frame horns are all *$#!ed up...

The pass side wing slopes slightly down towards the back of the rig, and the driver's side slopes slight up towards the back of the rig. The pass side wing fits UNDER the black plastic grid piece that holds the corner of the remaining plastic bumper cover. The driver's side wing fit fits outside the black plastic grid piece, and because it tilts up, it covers the slot that the remaining bumper cover attaches into. It also rubs on the plastic grid piece, causing a very un-Lexus like squeak, which led me to discover all this.

I can't really see how if you loosen all the bolts, that this bumper wouldn't just snap back to where it was based on the geometry of the bolts and clearance holes. Just wanted to check with everyone before I embark on the arduous task of loosening everything up, just to have it snug back into it's original position again.

Thoughts?

Driver's side
20230317_210518.jpg



Passenger's side
20230317_210459.jpg



Still really love this bumper.
 
I had the same issue with my awesome bumper . I raced off road Buggys in a previous chapter of my life and got use to not much fitting the computer drawing in my mind. 😂
I took my multi tool and cut the black plastic to clear the bumper. The bumper cover snapped back in. 10 k miles later it has not popped out.
I now install residental home appliances. We have an oven that is north of 5k that has two screws that do not fit inside the stated specs the Manufacturer states it will. Multi tool to the rescue. They make carbide blades that are amazing for these tools. Yes they will cut right through even a dry wall screw.
Hope this helps.
 
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I had the same issue with my awesome bumper . I raced off road Buggys in a previous chapter of my life and got use to not much fitting the computer drawing in my mind. 😂
I took my multi tool and cut the black plastic to clear the bumper. The bumper cover snapped back in. 10 k miles later it has not popped out.
I now install residental home appliances. We have an oven that is north of 5k that has two screws that do not fit inside the stated specs the Manufacturer states it will. Multi tool to the rescue. They make carbide blades that are amazing for these tools. Yes they will cut right through even a dry wall screw.
Hope this helps.
The problem is on the driver's side, where the metal covers the plastic where the plastic fender clips in. I'd have to cut the inner part of the victory metal to access the retainer. o_O
 
I would not cut the metal bumper. I would just cut the plastic. I think I had to remove the bottom screw on mine and cut right across it.
 
I would not cut the metal bumper. I would just cut the plastic. I think I had to remove the bottom screw on mine and cut right across it.
That's where I ended up. Got out the cut off tool and started making plunge cuts into the plastic for clearance. These bumpers have so many angles, and the wings are at the end of the tolerance stack away from the datums (frame horns), it's a pretty tall ask to get them welded within exacting tolerances. Willing to modify...
 
You are exactly correct welding them perfectly to be installed on a set of frame rails that have at least some miles driven over odd angles and twist. More adjustment would work until that 5/8 hole was drilled on each side. Both of ours were off on the same side. It might be the could clearance that area of the bumper a little on both sides in that area to take that problem out of the equation. I have a new rear bumper on order. I can’t wait to get it put on. Post pictures when you get done please .
 
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I too was having a little problem with gap. This is what I did per my build thread starting on post # 114: Builds - R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r-m-2013-gx-460-overland-build.1104719/page-6.
If you want to leave a little clearance for bumper flex so it doesn't crunch into your fenders I used this to gap fill, works great:
Amazon product ASIN B07KY3WXTQ
I use that, but have the opposite problem. The gap isn't too big, is significantly too small. Got it sorted, all good for now.
 

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