Vibration and Tire Cupping(Looking for AHC/Tire Gurus)

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If shocks not leaking they're good.
All fount end parts good, wheel bearing tight and in good working order, I'd look to tires.

I had a set of new Michelin tires of recommended stock size. These just would not balance. I would get some change depending on which tire was in what corner, but not smooth as I'd like. I complained and complained for 50K miles I complain at each 3K miles rotation and balance.

Tire shop said it's my shocks, TRE, ball joint, wheel bearings, etc, etc.. They were wrong on ever count.

I finally took to a tire shop with a road force balance, 5/150 finger plate and Toyota cone hub. I asked the tech, please really take a good look at them as he balanced. This tech knew his stuff. He spotted side wall hop. Most tires do have some side wall deformation. These were bad enough to cause issue, that also lead to cupping. Michelin and the Tire shop bought me a new set.
 
I assume the front tires are cupping. When did you service the wheel bearings last? An alignment tech should have noticed worn out wheel bearings, but its worth a check.

Are your wheels seating flush to the hub? Are you running factory wheels?

What sort of rotation schedule are you on? How many miles on the tires? I do a 5 tire rotation every 5k miles. Currently have 20k on my set of ST Maxx. They are noisy at 30mph, but that is the only issue I have.
No, the cupping and vibration are in the rear.

I just serviced both front hubs. New bearings, washers, grease all that.
Factory rims.
I was unable to do a true five tire rotation because once on the front, the cupped and/or out of round tires caused steering wheel vibration.
 
If shocks not leaking they're good.
All fount end parts good, wheel bearing tight and in good working order, I'd look to tires.

I had a set of new Michelin tires of recommended stock size. These just would not balance. I would get some change depending on which tire was in what corner, but not smooth as I'd like. I complained and complained for 50K miles I complain at each 3K miles rotation and balance.

Tire shop said it's my shocks, TRE, ball joint, wheel bearings, etc, etc.. They were wrong on ever count.

I finally took to a tire shop with a road force balance, 5/150 finger plate and Toyota cone hub. I asked the tech, please really take a good look at them as he balanced. This tech knew his stuff. He spotted side wall hop. Most tires do have some side wall deformation. These were bad enough to cause issue, that also lead to cupping. Michelin and the Tire shop bought me a new set.
My problem there is that I bought the tires off of TireRack. I don't have the backing of a tire shop in the case of bad tires...

I do have some weeping from the front shocks.. but the vibration is in the rear. LOL I'm so lost.
 
If vibration doesn't move from rear with tires rotated. I'd look to rear alignment and components.

AHC Shock Weep is okay provided not dripping.
 
I honestly don't think any of my suspension components are bad. It's a 134k mile 06 LX470. I've taken care of it and flushed the AHC fluid recently.

Do you think an out of round tire, which causes vibration, could cause tire cupping on that tire AND the tire across from it?

If that's the case, which I find believable, then what has happened in my situation is this: The original new tire which is on the rear, is out of round. The vibration from that bad tire causes cupping on itself and the tire across from it. So, now the previously good tire across from the out of round tire is also cupped and causes it's own vibration. The bad tire is replaced with a new tire which will now in turn begin to cup itself because of vibration.

Does this sound feasible??

Weak shocks, which you cannot tell just by looking at them, will allow the the axle to move up and down while you drive over the slightest bump in the road.
The springs support the weight of the vehicle, the shocks press against the frame and the axle pressing the axle down doing their best to hold it to the ground, they do NOT help hold up the vehicle contrary to popular belief.
If you had no shocks every time you hit a bump the axle would compress the spring and the tire would come off the ground. The body would bounce up as the spring was compressed, the axle drops back to the ground, the body then comes back down, the spring does it’s spring action pushing the body back up, then the spring is attached to the axle and then pulls the axle up, tire comes off the ground and so on.
Every time a rotating tire comes off the ground and lands there is extra wear on that spot of the tire that hit the ground, once that spot becomes big enough the tire will naturally bounce on that spot, the spot becomes larger.
The same tires cupping on the same axle are because they are connected to the same axle, so whatever happens with one tire happens to the other just not as pronounced.
If you have a GoPro mount it under the truck recording the offending tire, drive around and watch what happens.
I cannot speak to the AHC and it’s effects, but I can speak to the effects of weak shocks, and your problem sounds EXACTLY like weak shocks.

As for tire pressure, there is no “proper” tire pressure, manufactures put the tire pressure on the door for the tire that came on the car and to give the best compromise in ride, handling and fuel economy for a single person and no extra weight in the car using the OE tire.

I run my tires at 50psi in the summer, 40psi in the winter because a “softer” (less air) tire runs warmer than a “harder” (more air) tire, this aid’s in snow and ice traction by melting the snow and ice and making it sticky, but I do not sacrifice to much in mpg because I do not lower the pressure to low, if I ran a even lower tire pressure I’d have even better winter traction.
Snow tires are made of a softer rubber that runs hotter so it grips better, that’s why you can’t run snow tires in the summer, they get to hot and wear really quickly.
A tire with more air in it runs cooler, increases mpg but gives a harsher ride.

Remember the whole Ford/Firestone tires exploding deal? Ford recommended to low of a tire pressure to increase ride comfort but the tires were overheating, so they failed, people lost control and died.

And I’m just throwing this in here for s***s and giggles, I never rotate my tires, ever, and they weather check and leak before the tread wears out.
Tire rotation was a thing that needed to be done with bias ply tires because they did not wear evenly and the tire manufacture process was not as good as it is now.

You need new shocks.
 
If vibration doesn't move from rear with tires rotated. I'd look to rear alignment and components.

AHC Shock Weep is okay provided not dripping.
I had an alignment done, they said all the components were good. But, these guys are just tire shop technician, they didn't know much about the AHC system.
 
You said" All AHC components feel great and the pressures are good" What are pressures? What are the heights?
Unless your ride is really bouncy or heights way out of wack. I doubt your AHC is causing tire issue, but must be eliminated.

Swapping tires front to rear and vibration staying in rear. Something other than deffective tires are going on. Unless all tires now damaged!

I've found great deals in CL for Tundra wheels and tires. Sellers are ask $600. But generally will let go for 1/2 that. They just want out of thier garage. The Tundra wheels seem easier to balance. May be worth some coin and time to pick up a set, for testing on your 06. I keep a set around, just this propose. You can easily resale.

You need to also consider this may not be tires your feeling.
 
You said" All AHC components feel great and the pressures are good" What are pressures? What are the heights?
Unless your ride is really bouncy or heights way out of wack. I doubt your AHC is causing tire issue, but must be eliminated.

Swapping tires front to rear and vibration staying in rear. Something other than deffective tires are going on. Unless all tires now damaged!

I've found great deals in CL for Tundra wheels and tires. Sellers are ask $600. But generally will let go for 1/2 that. They just want out of thier garage. The Tundra wheels seem easier to balance. May be worth some coin and time to pick up a set, for testing on your 06. I keep a set around, just this propose. You can easily resale.

You need to also consider this may not be tires your feeling.


So I was just now able to get some updated data from techstream:
Also, I'm only getting nine graduations from low to high, but I have noticed it seems a little too bouncy whilst in comfort mode... could just be paranoia though.

IMG_1659.JPG
IMG_1660.JPG
 
I don't see anything in tech stream that would account for any tire damage.

You could improve ride with new rear coils or 30mm spacer, or better yet both. This will drop rear pressure and give longer lift to your weakened globes. Then 2 or 3 CW crank on T-bar keeping 1/2 to 3/4" rake (front end height lower than rear). will bring down front pressure. Or swap to no AHC if you of a mind to at end of globe life.

But really you look do not bad, except 9 graduation is near end of life. But I have seen where height sensor were so off. Full travel from low to high was not possible. This give false read of graduation. That one I saw had been in accident, and someone really jacked up the setting adjustments, so not the norm!

Swapping tire is your best test. Find a CL deal for Tundras wheels with tires. Make offer that will give you room to resale when done with test.
 
I don't see anything in tech stream that would account for any tire damage.

You could improve ride with new rear coils or 30mm spacer, or better yet both. This will drop rear pressure and give longer lift to your weakened globes. Then 2 or 3 CW crank on T-bar keeping 1/2 to 3/4" rake (front end height lower than rear). will bring down front pressure. Or swap to no AHC if you of a mind to at end of globe life.

But really you look do not bad, except 9 graduation is near end of life. But I have seen where height sensor were so off. Full travel from low to high was not possible. This give false read of graduation. That one I saw had been in accident, and someone really jacked up the setting adjustments, so not the norm!

Swapping tire is your best test. Find a CL deal for Tundras wheels with tires. Make offer that will give you room to resale when done with test.
Thanks for your time and info, man. I really appreciate it.
 

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