Harrow - I haven’t clicked on every part number, however I think you’ve mostly got it covered, and more so. Mine hasn’t progressed as it’s not urgent enough to decommission our only car for the sake of a 100rpm or so. I’m also on 33s but my h151 sits behind an fte in what was an fzj105. So you’re planning on buy a brand new box from Toyota? I’m not 100% sure if you can swap out partial internals between h152/151/150. Either way much easier/safer to start with a whole 152 whether new or second hand. Then you need to ditch the bellhousing (you need one suited for any 1H* engine to H15* box). As you know you also need the bearing retainer, but as you’ll be using either a new or low km box you can reuse the main bearing, seal (well maybe not), circlip and needle bearings.
As you must have a gxl due to mentioning constant 4x4, you also need an H151 from an hdj100 or fzj105 (or maybe even a uzj100). This is because you need the shifter housing position - all other boxes put it in totally the wrong spot. Doesn’t matter if internals are tired as you only need the shift shafts although if the input shaft is good it’s another thing you don’t need to buy along with the bearinf (although maybe uzj shaft is different). You need to pull the entire gear assembly out of the casing to change the input shaft anyway so swapping cases is no more work.
don’t forgot to put the plug in the transfer input shaft when you swap the gears...
You don’t need to change any hydraulics - hzj slave is fine. The only people that say you need to swap are the ones that don’t bother adjusting the master cylinder rod clevis. You can use the hzj pressure plate but need to use a coaster or fzj friction plate. Unless you use an hzj80 input shaft then you can keep the hzj105 friction plate too
As you must have a gxl due to mentioning constant 4x4, you also need an H151 from an hdj100 or fzj105 (or maybe even a uzj100). This is because you need the shifter housing position - all other boxes put it in totally the wrong spot. Doesn’t matter if internals are tired as you only need the shift shafts although if the input shaft is good it’s another thing you don’t need to buy along with the bearinf (although maybe uzj shaft is different). You need to pull the entire gear assembly out of the casing to change the input shaft anyway so swapping cases is no more work.
don’t forgot to put the plug in the transfer input shaft when you swap the gears...
You don’t need to change any hydraulics - hzj slave is fine. The only people that say you need to swap are the ones that don’t bother adjusting the master cylinder rod clevis. You can use the hzj pressure plate but need to use a coaster or fzj friction plate. Unless you use an hzj80 input shaft then you can keep the hzj105 friction plate too
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