Valve Gasket and Crank Seal Questions (1 Viewer)

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I just got the new to me cruiser home (230K on the engine and most parts original) and I getting ready to start working on the car. I am new to working on vehicles but I am eager to learn. Two of my first projects that I am going to tackle are a valve cover gasket and a crank seal as both seem to be leaking.

A few questions before I dive in are:

1) How can I be sure it is a crank seal that is bad or could it be the oil pan gasket? Is there anything that gives an indication of one over the other? It leaks about a 6" puddle once fired up or driven around. Here's a picture of the area leak. I am planning on scrubbing down the entire area to get a better look in the next day or so.

View attachment 2409986

2) Supposing that it is a crank seal/front main seal are there other items that should be addressed during this process? The previous owner years ago did a nice job taking care of the basic maintenance but over the past 4 years ago kind of let the car go.

3) When shopping for the gaskets for both the crank seal and the valve cover gasket there looked to be multiple options. Are there preferences on these?

Thanks for any advice and I could totally be wrong on all of my diagnosis of the car so feel free let me know what you think.
I've never seen an oil leak that fast and that large on the ground my bed sets the rear main seal that's going out.
 
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Thanks for all of the advice and confidence. I finally got a the manuals and tools to tackle the jobs. I took apart the front end of the cruiser this morning. Everything, I think, went smoothly. I decided while I was in there to replace a few of the parts like the thermostat, fan clutch, water pump, and the associated hoses. I will be getting this list shortly.

IMG_0358.jpg


There is some serious oil caked on the front of the engine. Hopefully my suspicion of crank seal/crank cover gasket could be the culprits. Does this look like it could be something else? I did order a bunch of other gaskets (timing cover, valve cover, oil pan, exhaust manifold ) as I have not clue what I am doing but I figured once I got in there I would get some ideas on what is going on.

IMG_0362.jpg


Anyway at this point I have a bunch of cleaning I want to get done on the old Tootsie Roll which should keep me pretty busy for a bit. After that the next step will be removing the water pump and crank bolt and then getting to those gaskets. Feel free to offer any advice ....all of it has been spot on.

Bennett
 

DrRock

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Having just gone through this, my leak ended up being the oil pan gasket. That said, with that many miles, changing the crank cover gasket is a great start. Just go slow and clean everything, use factory parts and gasket seal. After following the great advice here, I had my oil pan gasket out and replaced in 3 hrs, no leaks!
 
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Great info. The left half of the power steering pump is definitely grease covered. Is it a seal that usually needs replacing on the pump or does the whole unit need replacing when these fail? I will check that out. Although when it does leak out the bottom it looks like clear motor oil. However, the front of the engine is quite grimmey and I would not be sure what color is all over it. Also it looks like the oil sprayed out causing a splatter area over time? In any case I will be replacing a buttload of seals hoping to find the culprits. It has been super fun so far and the information on willingness to help on this site has been great. Thanks again.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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As of yet there is no rebuild kit per say for the steering pump. They’re was a guy who’d made a bushing that fixed his but a few of us tried drawing him in to mass produce but he never responded. If you spend some time looking through threads you’d find it. Many will swap over to saganaw from Georg at Valley Hybrids (a few small fairly easy mods are required) or source a used in good condition one or you can pick up one, I believe, from City Racer for a few hundred (give or take) or brand new from the dealer in the $400 range... that’s what I recall from a few years ago. Power steering fluid is ATF, Dextron and is very oily tho it’s red. It just soaks up dust and such while driving and turns that dark black color on the metal.
 
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I saw that Saginaw thread. This looks like a pretty good solution If I end up going that rout. A this point it would be hard to say on what is actually leaking. I’ll keep digging but on this endeavor. I’ll do the water pump, clutch fan, crank seal, crank gasket, side cover, thermostat, radiator hoses.
For tonight I will be scrubbing away. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Well, I think I jacked up the harmonic balancer. When pulling on breaker bar the tool that I used to hold must have slipped to the side and bent the balancer. I still need to get it off which I will try tomorrow. I probably will use the starter method which I was trying to avoid as I did not want to break anything unnecessarily. Well hell I looked up the price on these and they pretty pricey. Let me know your thoughts.

IMG-0380.jpg
 

3_puppies

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Well, I think I jacked up the harmonic balancer. When pulling on breaker bar the tool that I used to hold must have slipped to the side and bent the balancer. I still need to get it off which I will try tomorrow. I probably will use the starter method which I was trying to avoid as I did not want to break anything unnecessarily. Well hell I looked up the price on these and they pretty pricey. Let me know your thoughts.

View attachment 2446466

once you get it off, I would try and massage it back straight.

what are all the metal shavings on the fan belt and inside the pulley?

usually 1/2" impact will get the nut loose
 
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Thanks I will definitely try that. The impact gun had little affect on bolt. I have the mid range Milwaukee and I was pretty sure it could handle it but it did not budge.

I don’t think those are metal shavings. The engine was super grimmy so it is probably scrapings from that or the petrified water pump gasket
 

3_puppies

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I did have 1 crank nut in the last few years I needed to use my 3/4" gun on to break it loose.
 

Gretsch

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A tip... small hand held poly resin ice scrapers are great for that area on the front of the block.
I wish I had used one of these when doing cooling system work. Thinking about it now it would have been the perfect tool for helping to get the front of the block clean.

When pulling on breaker bar the tool that I used to hold must have slipped to the side and bent the balancer.
Curious what tool was used to hold the HB?
 
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The tool was this one.
IMG-0387.jpg

It really did not fit quite right and due entirely to operator error I dinged up the balancer. I am not sure I will be able to get it back to working order. I did reach out to Dales harmonic balancer repair to see if this was in their wheelhouse. Expensive lesson but there was some definitely learning involved.

I did get the balancer finally off after using both the starter bump with the impact driver. The starter bump somehow loosened to nut up enough to let my impact driver do its job. The nut would not come off from the starter bump on its own. That nut was on there!

The timing cover was also a battle. That gasket had become part of the engine! I filed down a putty knife and taped it around the edges for quite some time. I was pumped when when it all came off. Then another hour or two of scraping off the cover and the engine block.

IMG-0389.jpg


As layers come off the car it exposes more and more grease. Getting everything cleaned up it pretty satisfying even if I have a loooong way to go. Tomorrow on to the oil pan gasket. Hopefully a reassemble is in the near future. Thanks for all of the help.
 
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Oil Pan off. That was a bugger. Used the bottle jack from the cruiser. That little jack is pretty sweet. It fit pretty well for pressing from the passenger side. It was too large on the drivers side which remained super stuck. I did some more scraping with my sharpened putty knife and then used the scissor jack from my Subaru. Not quite as easy but got the job accomplished.

An hour or so of scrubbing and the oil pan is looking good. The previous owner must not have followed Posers thread as there was sealant all over the oil pan and not just the corners and the arches. I still have to go at the glue/cork that is on the bottom of the car.

Emailed Dales Manufacturing where they rebuild balancers. Good news! They said that with a torch I could get that balancer back to working condition. Totally pumped.

Questions at this point:
As I was cleaning I noticed that this purple connector had broken away from my Thermostat housing. It looks like this is one of the temperature sensors. Is this dash temperature sensor?
IMG_0399.jpg


Additionally, In Posers thread he mentioned to use "cement" to adhere the side cover gasket to the side cover. Is there are recommended cement for this application? This is my next gasket to get to before I can start putting things back together.

The last question is on the distributor. I will be pulling the distributor to access my side cover gasket. I have been doing as much reading as possible on this but until I get into it everything seems a bit fuzzy. What I have gathered so far is that the fly wheel needs to be a top dead center which is the "BB". Then from there I could use some help.... in laymans/newbee terms :)

Thanks for everything and all the assistance!
 

Gretsch

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It looks like this is one of the temperature sensors. Is this dash temperature sensor?
Thats your BVSV (Bi-metal Vacuum Switching Valve). Part of the Emissions\spark control system and used in the engine warm-up cycle. Vacuum switch which opens when the coolant temp goes above a certain temp. Its senses the temp of the coolant (thus the reason for it being in the thermostat housing) and opens when above 111F. Not for the temp sensor indicator in dash:

1601264538096.png


Toyota Part No.:90925-05035 and still available through your Toyota Dealer or you can get them through City Racer here. The temp sensor for the dash is in the head on the driver side of the engine sort of behind the carb roughly:

1601265463003.png


Additionally, In Posers thread he mentioned to use "cement" to adhere the side cover gasket to the side cover. Is there are recommended cement for this application? This is my next gasket to get to before I can start putting things back together.

Toyota FIPG. P/N: 00295-00103 I believe. You can get this from your Toyota Dealer as well.

HTH.
 
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Thanks for reply. I will get that ordered tonight. Living in the mountains is a double edged sword. Great to be away from everything however it does make heading to the local dealership and special parts kind of a pain. Nearest Toyota dealership is about 3hrs away. I need to get on the page of some of the guys here that can source parts. Although the online ordering has been working out well and it seems when I can any of the Cruiser particular shops they are awesome to speak with and very helpful. Thanks again.
 
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Alright I have another newbee question. This one is in regards to the distributor. I have read as a bunch of threads and gone over the engine manual many times. I want to make sure that I am going about this properly. I am getting ready to pull off the distributor and want to make sure it is in the correct position to do this.


I do not have the valves exposed at the current time. Right now I have a bunch of pieces off and was hoping to not to have to dismantle too much else before piecing the car back together.

Here is where I am at.

1) I set the TDC line in the window with the pointer marking it
2) Pulled the distributor cap off
3) Rotor was pointing to spark plug 6
4) Crawled back under the cruiser and moved the flywheel one full turn
5) Looked at rotor and it was pointing towards plug 1

IMG-0417.jpg

Distributor Cap with plug one highlighted


IMG-0409.jpg

Once pulled it looks like rotor is 180 degrees off

IMG-0416.jpg

Rotor Position looking correct


Now my questions:
Should the crank gear and timing gear have the two marks line up? As I have been reading in all sorts of other literature/online posts (not necessarily land cruiser specific) there should be marks that line up. This is what I see with the two marks (bb hole) and imprint on crank gear are on opposite ends. Does this mean anything? Once I mark up position on distributor, reference points, am I good to pull distributor and remove side cover gasket? Thanks a bunch

IMG-0414.jpg


IMG-0414.jpg
 

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