V8 conversion - specific application Q's (1 Viewer)

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It is a 90 tranny from a 2wd truck.....
 
I have the 700r in mine and love it, yes the rear driveshaft is short. I had Tom Woods make mine with a double CV joint. Add some good anti-wrap bars and yer set. Oh yeah, I did move my motor a little farther forward so the stock Chevy fan fits into a modified Cruiser shroud. No cooling problems at all.
 
I took a look here to see what every one has done with exaust systems....and after reading all the replys can see why you could be a little mind bogled, for some reason I find myself wanting to reply.

I agree...there's not just one right way to swap a v8, I have helped with three so far and done one on my own and have learned one thing...it doesn't really matter where you decided to find a new home for the new motor as long as it's about an inch or so away from most everything...excluding the raidator witch I like to leave a few inches at least "if keeping belt driven fan". It doesn't really matter if the motor is perfectly straight as long as the drive shaft towarrds the rear is some what straight...unless you plan to use the 4WD on the street...then having both shafts somewhat straight is better....however If I remember right the stock front shaft was slightly offset anyway.

The hard thing for me to over come was taking out all the origanl to put in some chevy, some toyota...anw who know what to come...once I overcame that I thought the rest would be easy...if I only knew I had only just started.

The first conversian won't be perfect...the second will be better...and by then you will have a pretty good idea of what you like and what doesn't work.....By then you will be transplanting a V8 in the new 4-Runner your wife drives.....Think she will notice?...I though it would be a great christmas pressent d=)
However...by now you probley are far along with the swap...I will go back to looking at what you guys have done for headers. Let us know how it turns out.
 
WEEEEELLLL....I don't know what I was thinking.....it was a late one last night...for me...I just don't know what to do with more than one day off. I noticed you placed your first message early November....and some people throw in v8's on "the weekend" ...why they dont' take their time is mind boggling to me...it's three years after I did mine and I'm still fine tunning her.
....wait now...it's actually been four and a half years now....man where does the time go...I just a few months ago finished my fan shroud.....
 
I'm running the 717011 inside the frame rail headers that Advanced Adaptors sells.

HI^C is correct about not attaching the motor mounts to the frame until you have the exhausts or headers mounted.

These headers may require slight offset towards the passenger side. I suspect the shop that did the conversion on my truck put the headers on AFTER they set the engine and mounts in place, and then had to put a slight dimple in one tube to clear the steering box. The fit is very, very tight.

As far as the AA mounts go, they are simple and straightforward. Why reinvent the wheel? Use them. However, you should purchase their conversion booklet for Land Cruisers, because they do note that there are some smallblock Chevys that use different motor mount patterns, and they spell these out. I think the engine you're using is OK, but I'm an old Ford and Dodge racer, not a GM fanatic.

I'm a little confused as to what tranny/transfer you've decided to go with at this point. Are you sticking with the 700R4 or going with something else?
 
If you go with the stock 4-speed tranny and transfer then get the Mark's of Australia kit. It's a second bellhousing that fits between the existing bellhousing and the smallblock. It spaces the engine forward and leaves the tranny/transfer in their stock positions. Uses an AA motor mount setup. If this is a first conversion it's pretty simple. I'd recommend a heavier clutch and I can get you the part numbers for that.

Having said that, you are not going to get super low crawl ratios out of this with the stock gearing, even with 4.10 gears. Yeah, you'll have power and torque, but that's only part of the equation. This is a good, all around setup for a rig for hunting, vacationing, exploring, etc. It is NOT a serious rockcrawling setup. It needs either a gear swap, which will affect highway use and mileage, or it needs a reduction box. I'm not knocking this conversion - it's good. But, like all conversions, they always involve a compromise.

That's why you see the recommendations for a 465. Much more low range. Even around town the stock 4-speed with 33" tires is a pain in heavy traffic. I'm tempted to cut the block preventing 2High engagment just to prevent constant in-out clutching at 2mph.
 
cksnay on the 700r4(AAY)

first option is going with the stock 4speed second option is to go with an sm 465 -woody adapter-3 spd t-case to have a 62/1 crawl ratio which would be nice
 
did you ever figure all this out? i'd like to hear how it turned out/which route you decided to go....

i'm picking up a cruiser with 350 (aa mount) with bellhousing adapter (unknown make, probably aa) to LC 4spd and case and want to make sure i got everything figured out here :confused:
 
Can anyone tell me what application that flywheel cover is for. I need one for my FJ40 with a 350 and I haven't had any luck yet. I have the same adapter plate as shown with the chevy bell housing.

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funny,you got me searching , i've been looking for info on the bellhousing adapter , i also have a old
4sp plate adapter lying around the shop , like the one in the pick , i have the bottom cover , didn't think it was anything special , and accidentally stepped on it last year , , i may have chucked it , OOPS ! , that one on ebay is not quite the same as the cover i had , but may work ??? years seem to match the years for the bellhousing should work ??
 
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Yep, it is a early chevy/gmc bellhousing similiar bells used both in trucks and cars of the same era.

the orange one is a harder bell to get ahold of, as it appears to have the threaded boss on the driverside for a clutch pivot.

I have to look but i tossed out at least 5 of these a few months back, i have more not sure on the cover condtions though.
 
Here are some pictures of the exhaust on the drivers side. I had to grind the manifold as well as the steering box slightly. I also have at least 2-3 inches from firewall to distributer. Also, I added a body lift, and bent the shifter in 2 places to allow it to come up in the normal place. You can kind of see the shifter in the second picture.
 
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Keeping the motor slightly to driver is to keep the tcase off the passenger side frame .
Do not use the rear dump , get ramhorns.
Go saginnaw.
Use the A/A wing mounts not the front cradle.
Use the A/A tcase propeller or see treeroots thread on mods to that.
 
i'm going 350 - sm465 - np205 - centered rear
- drivetrain length - just short of a football feild

but this thread is good for the s***e load of info its got for uder people
 
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