V8 clutch problem never solved..

[Bennett]

I have a constant problem with my V8 Chev conversion clutch... just not enough throw... to summarize !

Can you make a suggestion of what I can do to get more throw. In order to keep my throw out bearing from spinning ,
as soon as I let up on the fully depressed pedal I the clutch engages. I am getting more than an inch of slave throw on a properly bled slave. I feel the Pressure plate ( diaphragm type ) could be part of the problem. Previous plate had a 3 finger designed but it also wore out the throw out bearing in 30K.
What would you do.... here is what I have

Clutch plate is in correctly
New diaphragm clutch
AA slave holder and new bled slave
new pilot bushing
short chev throw out bearing on curved cast iron fork...
throw out bearing slides clean and easy on retainer ( probably machined by PO)
1/16t of free play before Throw out bearing touches diaphragm fingers.
500 miles on this setup
Pedal goes from full up to fully pushed down and I get engagement as soon as I let up.. kid of a surprise clutch release/
Just gettin tire of it....

any suggestions.......other than USE A CENTERFORCE PP = which I will NOT!

 

[Rock_Hugger]

How much play do you have in the pedal before it starts to engage the clutch master.

 

[Bennett]

1/4" of free play and then all the way down... I am getting wel over an inch of throw on the slave rod but it engages just "to soon"

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Which bell housing and trans? Is it the AA clutch fork or Chevy? AA fork is straight...a curved Chevy folk might not work with the AA slave bracket or the throw might be more with the AA fork.

My conversion used the AA slave bracket, AA fork and stock Chevy throw-out bearing; all in a cast iron Chevy bell housing. This in front of a Ranger OD. The AA throw-out bearing didn't work for me. Stock 11" Chevy clutch from the parts store. Worked well...

HTH,
Nick Jennings

 

[Bennett]

bellhousing is a cast chevy and I am running a stock 4 speed on my fj40 via a plate adapter I believe from downey.
The curved fork puts me closer to the slave and lines up perfect for a straight throw.
I just don;t have enoough throw... i guess.

 

[65swb45]

Sounds to me like maybe you should cut a 1/4" or so off the backside of your slave cylinder pushrod and grind a new bevel on it to give yourself a little more 'elbow room"

 

[peesalot]

get a straight fork , if it has 2 possible positions for the push rod like the 2 I have seen , use the one closest to the bellhouse. if you haven't alreadt , shorten the push rod, or take the acorn style nut off , let the pushrod run through the fork , put a washer on first to run up against the jamb nut ( this washer will actually push on the fork now ) , and put the acorn nut on the backside to trap the pushrod. reinstall return spring. Lose the 1/16 of an inch clearance at release and set it just so the tension of the return spring pulls the throw out off fingers. You mention something that seems odd. The part about the alignment being good with the curved fork , with the A/A slave bracket and a chevy bellhouse it should be dead in line using a straight fork , I will measure from my slave body to the fork in morning and post up. you bracket may be tweaked as some of the pbb guys said

 

[Bennett]

Thanks for the info...

I cannot change forks without pulling the motor or trans....
I did thatt already after six states gave me them wrong clutch disc.

IIRC you cannot remove a cast clutch forw without seperating the bellhousing. I have a bottom open bellhousing.
I can get the fork off the pivot ball but I can't get it out of the bell housing off the throwout bearing.
I have some good pics of the fork I have but I figured I can't psot pics without a star.
I can e-mail them to somebody.
I'm thinking the fork is OK... it lines up excellent.... cast and has a hole where the acorn goes through and is right inline when the slave is pushed.

still dunno

berg

 

[woody]

uh...you CAN post pics without a star....just not many

honestly, I didn't know there was a curved cast fork, only a straight cast fork and a curved stamped one....I use the straight cast with no problems with a LUK clutch and stock Cruiser slave.

What bore slave to you have? Smaller bore slave (later) with large bore master (early) should offer more throw....IIRC, later slaves are 3/4" bore, earlier ones are 7/8" (and 3/4" bore will move more...)