V8 2 Into 1 Exhaust Build

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Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Threads
38
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3,156
Location
KY
Well my project started back in January with building the 2 into 1 crossover for a pair of rams horn manifolds with 2.5" outlets.

Then it was time to figure out which muffler and how much exhaust pipe was needed to build the rest. After much research and soul searching I decided to go with Flowmaster's 50 Series HD #953559 which is Aluminzed steel with offset 3.5" inlet and outlet.

For exhaust pipe I opted for Vibrant Performance #12612 3.5" OD AS U-J mandral bent tube.

I built a cardboard template of the pipe shape to determine the cut locations.

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The green lines are reference only and used to plot the cut angles. They were where the straight pipe ended or began. While this doesn't look like enough pipe it actually was perfect and every inch was used without any additional pipe or modifications. To build the connector pipe between the Y-collector and the muffler I used the 13" section and the section between the 90 and 22.5 degree marks rotated 180 degrees. This came close to the up angle of the frame. The tail pipe was built with 21" section mated to the 7" section with the section between the 45 and 90 degree for the turn down on the end.

To join all the components I used 3.5" V-band sets from Pacific Performance Engineering. I also used two or their 3" T-bolt clamps to connect to my original dual exhaust hangers on the drivers side. This is what I ended up with.

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I'd never used V-band clamps before but liked the way they locked everything into place. It took a few minor adjustments with pipe line up starting from the front and working to the rear. Once everything was aligned and tightened it was all rock solid. I now know that it will go back together perfectly after disassembly, a little more weld clean up and then a complete high temp paint job. I actually lucked out with the hangers from my original exhaust lining up with the new system.

For those of you who may have contemplated build your own exhaust I say go for it. My system was built with all mandrel bent tubing which probably made things easier as the angles were good. I used a portable band saw from HF to make the straight cuts through the pipes. As they say measure twice and cut once. I probably measured three or more times. :)

Slip fits on the front crossover section was easier to align and weld than the rear butt welds. My MIG welding is not the best and I did actually burn a couple of small holes through the 14 gauge pipe but nothing a little more spot welding couldn't fix.
 
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How does it sound?

Don't know as I'm still working on things so it may be a month or so before it actually gets started.


I worked at a muffler shop in a past life. It's pretty hard to get mig welded joints to be leak free. Fire it up cold and run a bare hand around each joint and check for pinhole leaks.

Looks great.

I figured I'd try and pressurize the sections and test for leaks that way before doing the painting. Up to this point I've been simply looking for light peaking through any holes.
 
If is not too late, you might turn that tail pipe tip up a little. Just so it doesn't blast you and the guy behind you with dust on a dry trail. John

The pipe was a little shorter than I would have liked and I was trying to keep exhaust out from under the body and from just blowing back on the rear brake light. The 45 degree piece was the only thing I had left so I went for the turn down. As you can see in this picture it only sticks out about the middle of the tire.

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What I was trying to avoid was blowing exhaust on people or vehicles on the drivers side as well as vehicles or people that may be directly behind me. I split the difference and without spending any more money on it at the moment made this choice. If I run into any negatives later I spend some more money and make whatever change is necessary to correct the deficiency. Heck, I was even thinking of putting a stack cap on it to keep the critters out but figured the balance would be off and not keep it closed with the engine off. Depending on the volume I may end up putting one of these in it to quiet it down a touch and also serve as a critter barrier.

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Time will tell.
 
So it is finally done and installed. I installed Flowmaster 51017 heat shield on the muffler.

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It was a perfect fit with no excess band clamp length.

I bought a Heatshield Armor kit that came with 1' x 5' x 1/4" think ceramic insulation that is supposed to cut heat radiation by 70%. I came up about 10" or so short but was able to cover almost everything in front of the muffler.

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The insulation wrap behind the O2 sensor is also Heatshield Products 1" diameter 36" long Velcro closer shield. It's wrapped around the speedo cable and emergency brake cable.

I also changed oil filters to make future changes easier. I went with K&N HP-2003 because it has a 1" nut on the bottom to make removal easier. It is also shorter which means it only has slight contact with the top drivers side pipe shield instead of both like the Fram PH11 did.

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The only thing now is to finish the work and get it back on the road. Once I do I'll report back on the heat reduction and sound levels.
 
I'll take one... :D although I'd like it with a 70 series muffler, I'd be concerned 50 series would be too loud.

I've found my 110v stick welder with farmers rod works excellent for exhaust pipes. I'd love to replace my dual 'Turbo' muffler setup with a quieter single exhaust that'd breath well enough for a healty 350.
 
i never had a v8 with single exhaust back in the day it was dual to be cool .nice job though
 
Nice job, the heat wrap is important and came out well!
 
So, I've had it on the road since last week. I took it off road, rough dirt road, and bounced the drive shaft into the passenger side cross over pipe. Only a small dimple but it looks like for the long term I'd be better off removing the 90 degree pipe and replacing it with a 45 degree pipe and then under the pan.

The heat wrap is delivering as advertised as I have no heat issues on the floor boards. This is verified by the EFI ECU which is mounted under the seat and reports it's temperature through the tablet interface.

The original radiator sprung a leak so I'm side lined until I get it back from the shop with a new core.
 
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