According to the Japanese rep of 555 at the SEMA show, 555 was one of the most knocked off brands coming out of China . Look for this....
@cruiseroutfit ( you should keep this pic on hand Kurt )
Last edited:
Use tie rod ends on the relay rod?
- Thread starter elripster
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
According to the Japanese rep of 555 at the SEMA show, 555 was one of the most knocked off brands coming out of China . Look for this....
@cruiseroutfit ( you should keep this pic on hand Kurt )
If you want to save some bucks at the cost of reliability you can get your 555's at a deal here...
555 Tie Rod End, 555 Tie Rod End Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com
555 Tie Rod End, 555 Tie Rod End Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com
When you see how cheap the Chinese 555's are you can almost see why some unscrupulous vendors will be temped to bring them in and package them with the omission or their origin.
- Thread starter
- #44
LC you might be onto something there. I don't have an extremely lifted truck but it does have more droop than it did when I bought the kit due to longer shocks and shackles I added later. I do seem to have issues with both barrel joints but this could at least explain the pitman side.
Most places want a drawing to quote a part and I just haven't had time or a part that isn't in my truck to make one.
My goal is a drop in replacement but I might not get there. I am not quite out of arrows to shoot at this one yet but am getting there.
Frank
Most places want a drawing to quote a part and I just haven't had time or a part that isn't in my truck to make one.
My goal is a drop in replacement but I might not get there. I am not quite out of arrows to shoot at this one yet but am getting there.
Frank
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So looking through some threads, is there any documented write-up for the TRE/DL replacement? I have a set of 555s sitting that I have had for quite a while. I am finally going to go after the front suspension tomorrow and replace my springs with newer ones. Question is, I really need this back up and running by end of tomorrow, is it a long and arduous job or should be fairly easy? I have been spraying with PB for some months now on and off.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 583
- Messages
- 16,396
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
You need a pickle fork. It shouldn't take too long assuming everything isn't too rusted together.
I would however go straight to an alignment shop after if you don't trust doing it yourself.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Well that is the thing... my steering wheel is a bit off when going down the road so I know that I need to get the alignment taken care of. Guess I will have to see about renting a puller on my way home tonight, no pickle fork as the puller should do the job completely.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
To me it is a no rush repair, but if you want to try here is what I did and to much to copy/paste:
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Power steering fluid + steering linkage tie rod
I dont like the fork besides for eating because of the slammin (force is not only going to the guy slammed at) and the press out tools I had to set so much force I thought it would just explode and leave a hole in my skull, one big kinetic energy storage.
My steering was off but that was because the tierod was bend
cheers: PO) and I put it back exactly the same way and took photos 
of the thread position, seems oke (no hands steering and breaking possible), but still wondering if I should let a shop do it, all grease is fresh and ready.
good luck anyway, time schedule I would not do it.
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Power steering fluid + steering linkage tie rod
I dont like the fork besides for eating because of the slammin (force is not only going to the guy slammed at) and the press out tools I had to set so much force I thought it would just explode and leave a hole in my skull, one big kinetic energy storage.
My steering was off but that was because the tierod was bend
cheers: PO) and I put it back exactly the same way and took photos of the thread position, seems oke (no hands steering and breaking possible), but still wondering if I should let a shop do it, all grease is fresh and ready.good luck anyway, time schedule I would not do it.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
@gregnash
Your steering wheel position really has nothing to do with alignment. You can have the truck perfectly aligned and adjust the relay rod so your wheel is upside down and as long as you don't mess with the tie rod your wheel alignment doesn't change. changing the steering wheel position just involves lengthening or shortening the relay rod . Set your wheels straight ahead and turn the relay rod in or out and watch where the steering wheel goes
Your steering wheel position really has nothing to do with alignment. You can have the truck perfectly aligned and adjust the relay rod so your wheel is upside down and as long as you don't mess with the tie rod your wheel alignment doesn't change. changing the steering wheel position just involves lengthening or shortening the relay rod . Set your wheels straight ahead and turn the relay rod in or out and watch where the steering wheel goes
- Thread starter
- #51
I have hit mostly dead ends but do have one Chinese lead that will do one time forging to recreate what appears to be the discontinued Monroe L13229 and 13225 parts. If I wanted get the price down by selling these the recurring prices are still rather high as are their minimum quantities. Delivered the two drag link ends will be around $170. Triscan (UK) does currently make them but they have no dealers in the USA. I would have to become a dealer to get some. That said Triscan's price is quite competitive. I might just look into this.
Decisions, decisions.
Frank
Decisions, decisions.
Frank
Im with you i don't like those drag links,the early 70's(leaf sprung)have them down here also.
There was a couple of mobs in the usa making arms that could take 80 series or your 1 ton chev joints im sure,couple of years ago i was nearly gonna order a set to suit 80 joints.Wouldnt this be a whole lot easier route?
Im about a month away from taking mine of the road and 80 diff and coils etc going under it,looking forward to see how it steers with this setup,no fxxxen draglinks yee haaa!!!!!
There was a couple of mobs in the usa making arms that could take 80 series or your 1 ton chev joints im sure,couple of years ago i was nearly gonna order a set to suit 80 joints.Wouldnt this be a whole lot easier route?
Im about a month away from taking mine of the road and 80 diff and coils etc going under it,looking forward to see how it steers with this setup,no fxxxen draglinks yee haaa!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #53
The easiest route would be bolt in replacements for what is there.
80 ends require a new relay rod and reaming of the pitman and tie rod attachment points.
As with any problem there are many possible solutions.
Frank
80 ends require a new relay rod and reaming of the pitman and tie rod attachment points.
As with any problem there are many possible solutions.
Frank
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Ok so if I am interpretting all this correctly to adjust the steering wheel when the wheels are aligned I do the following...
- loosen bolt at relay rod to link connection
- loosen bolt at other end for TRE to link connection
- turn link in/out?
Link being the rod/tube that runs between the relay rod to the opposite side of the vehicle and connects to the TRE.
Or do I just
- Loosen bolt for link to relay rod connection
- disconnect steering stabilizer
- turn relay rod in/out?
- loosen bolt at relay rod to link connection
- loosen bolt at other end for TRE to link connection
- turn link in/out?
Link being the rod/tube that runs between the relay rod to the opposite side of the vehicle and connects to the TRE.
Or do I just
- Loosen bolt for link to relay rod connection
- disconnect steering stabilizer
- turn relay rod in/out?
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Keep the steering damper attached.
Just release the two clamps left and right of the damper, dont force to much stress to the tierods, if you turn the tierod tube the tierods will start to turn and that is a thng you would like to avoid.
If you turn anything else on the lower side the wheels toe-in is off.
if you turn them in equally like manual states, now when you turn there is plenty of room to make some adjustment
(impossible that you turn them out and they fall out)
Just release the two clamps left and right of the damper, dont force to much stress to the tierods, if you turn the tierod tube the tierods will start to turn and that is a thng you would like to avoid.
If you turn anything else on the lower side the wheels toe-in is off.
if you turn them in equally like manual states, now when you turn there is plenty of room to make some adjustment
(impossible that you turn them out and they fall out)
