Urgent help: starter not cranking out, my alternator is Wonky but the battery's are at 13.8v (1 Viewer)

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Patineto

"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
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Actually 14.2 I think in the Optima blue top..
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Actually the whole problem start a week ago when we got stranded do to a alternator issue, since then no back light or niddles moving on the dash, only turn signals, high beam and the warning for the seat belts show up...


When you try to start it, you only hear a ''click'' like from a big relay, like when the batery is death, but absolutlly no starter action, makes me think Is electrical (fuse/switch) and not mechanical, but after all I may know how to build level 6 bullet proof suburban and cruisers, but no clue about the inner workings (I can take any of my bmw GS's apart blindfolded, but aparently the skill those not translate..

I also check the big fuses and they are fine and now clean or new..
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The 150 sequoia alternator is arriving later today (I'm hundred porcent sure I can install it right) but I still don't have the apropiate plastic connector..

Thanks for the help in advance, please v let me b know v what else b to check is whatever simple thing I'm missing..
 
did you check/clean the main battery cables going to the alternator & chassis ground?
 
did you check/clean the main battery cables going to the alternator & chassis ground?

^THIS.

also, will the truck start on with jumper cables?
 
^THIS.

also, will the truck start on with jumper cables?
I have not tried this time around

My wife will not let me touch her slick electric car so I may try my big bmw GS it had a 80a alternator

The wierd thing is that the truck was starting no problem for a whole week just on charge batteries
Bruichladdich
 
its possible the alternator rectfying diodes are damaged & its not delivering adequate/stable 13.x VDC. you might check voltage between the alternator +DC out & GND
 
I'm not sure how you are reading your battery voltage. Did you get that multi-meter yet? A fully charged AGM battery should read 12.7v (or maybe just a little more). To measure correctly, you have to remove that "surface charge" on the battery by draining it a bit.... like running your headlights for 3-5 minutes or just letting the battery sit for a few hours.

Perhaps you can swap batteries with a known good battery or try your optima in another vehicle... or take the battery to AutoZone and they can test it for you. If the battery checks out, I'd next check the connections. Looking at your pic, it looks like your positive clamp might be stretched/maxed out, possibly from repeated tightening/retightening. The battery terminals can be pitted or out of round, also adding to a poor connection. I would take apart and clean the battery and cable connections. If cranking improves, then you know you are onto something.
 
To my susprise the alternator came with the square connector attach to it..
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Model.
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Now I just need the din Straction tool...
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So I only need three of the wires from what I read, anybody know the colors or has a diagram to insert the in the right place..
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The Alternator has nothing to do with the starter circuit, it isn't even operation under crank conditions. All it does really is charge your battery, so your battery isn't in a good condition, whether it is faulty or not charged( due to alternator) is something you haven't mentioned. If your standing voltage is around 12.7 volts and your voltage under crank doesn't drop below 9v then you need to look at the starter circuit itself. A good charged battery will start a engine without the alternator attached.
 
The Alternator has nothing to do with the starter circuit, it isn't even operation under crank conditions. All it does really is charge your battery, so your battery isn't in a good condition, whether it is faulty or not charged( due to alternator) is something you haven't mentioned. If your standing voltage is around 12.7 volts and your voltage under crank doesn't drop below 9v then you need to look at the starter circuit itself. A good charged battery will start a engine without the alternator attached.
Oh I’m sorry


Sure I understand the starter is Only a related “cousins” in the system in fact one is at the beginning of the chain the other at the very end but they still codependent (not I’m my case I guess since I have two very different issues)

I’m just saying my problems started when the alternator when fubar on me.. (but the truck start perfectly for a week as long as long as the battery is charged.)

The battery (I have two) that are about 13.4v and still the starter will not react. Also try my bmw Gs to start the truck and nothing even if it has a 80a alternator (don’t know the amperage)

I’m not sure this issues are related I’m just giving all the fact “I know” (many I don’t)

Note: I’m a big motorcycle freak and my GSs have s very similar arquitectre to a car or work on a similar way to a car and the bike I can take apart and fix find folded (almost 600.000miles in between the three main BMW all the work done by me or really good friends and they still running very strong..

I also implement tue use of many easy to find car parts to replacement for RTW (round the world) trips

Old VW clutches, Jetta fuel pumps, Bosch car alternators, etc
 
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What does the voltage drop down to when you try to crank the engine over? A good surface charge isn't really reliable to test a good battery, that is why they do battery voltage drop tests. 13.4v seems a bit high.
 
What does the voltage drop down to when you try to crank the engine over? A good surface charge isn't really reliable to test a good battery, that is why they do battery voltage drop tests. 13.4v seems a bit high.
I order a basic voltmeter from amazon will be here on Monday and then I tell you about the drops, voltage etc

From my motorcycle experience sound like a low battery that can not trigger the starter relay but sincerely I don’t know anything about cars

I learn to drive 8 years ago (I’m 56) before that only bicycles and motorcycles but now with kiddos and snow I had no choice to learn to use them..
 
Find yourself a BFH and give the starter a couple good whacks. This may be unrelated to your alternator.
 
Looking at your pic, it looks like your positive clamp might be stretched/maxed out, possibly from repeated tightening/retightening..
Very sharp observations, I will respond to all of them with more time..

Battery terminal..

Sure it came that way from amazon even if it was well review it maybe I got the wrong thing (work great for 18/20 months almost since we got the truck

Any suggestions on a good one..?
 
Did you disconnect the battery before you remove the alternator? Check other big fuses.
 

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