Hey all:
While what I did might be old hat to the experienced heads here, I just wanted to write up a few words about some work I did recently on the rig.
First off, I want to say thanks to Christo and Ben and the rest of the folks at Slee. These guys know their stuff and they are an extremely important asset to our community. Also, I want to give a shout out to Tim Harris (gray FJ60) and Kirk McCauley (green 6" lifted FZJ80) from the Akron, OH area--they were kind enough to take time out of their day to weld and let me use their shop and tools; I couldn't have done it without their help and expertise.
1. Rebuilt Front Drive shaft:
After my OME heavy lift, apparently the angle up front really didn't jive with the truck. That said, I blew a rear u-joint going into the t-case. (reference thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53309)
So I pulled the front drive shaft and had it rebuilt by Sam Winer (http://www.samwinermotors.com/) here in Akron, OH. They deal specifically with heavy truck equipment and they did a wonderful job rebuilding the front axle (and making sure to assemble it 90 degrees out of phase--that threw them for a second). I gave them OEM Toyota joints, flange, dust cover, and yoke assy. and they put it together, balanced it, greased it up, and painted it.
2. Slee sway bar drops:
Both front and back (though backs aren't in yet because of a couple of busted bolts in the frame.... )
3. OME Castor Bushings--Front Control Arms:
I can't believe how much better the handling and the ride is with the bushings up front. I assume that the castor was also corrected as the driveline vibrations are gone and no clunkity-clunk sounds. They were rather easy to put in actually...now that I've done four... I used CDan's explanation which was indeed the easiest to follow and the most clearly written; if it's not in the FAQ's, it should be: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=60293&postcount=32
Once you get the arms off, it's pretty simple to see what the OME folks mean.
By the way, these arms are definitely the biggest pieces of metal I've seen. They are enourmous--the folks over at Toy really thought them out. They are made to last. The re-install was the toughest part, as lining up the holes was difficult (as well as nerve racking...hoping that the bushings were pressed in correctly--7.25" was right on the money). Definitely a two person job...I almost broke my back trying to pry the front axle back in line with the rear frame attachment of the control arms...they weigh a ton!
4. Slee Adjustable front and rear panhard DIY joints:
These are some beautifully machined pieces of metal. The directions ( http://sleeoffroad.com/installation/diy_adjuster_install.htm ) at Slee's site were perfect and Tim Harris's clean TIG welds were spot on. I painted them afterwards and the installation was simple. The truck no longer leans and alignment is nicely corrected.
5. New OEM Toyota Bolts/Nuts/Washers:
While I'm in there, might as well start making some spares. I assume the old ones were fine on all the big pieces of metal, but as the logic goes here--better to have spares then to not have them.
6. New OEM Bushings--All control arms:
I figured after 150K or so of riding on the same bushings, a new set of bushings might be in order to smoothen out the ride and tighten up the body/suspension movements. Front control arm rears were replaced, along with front and rear panhards, upper and lower rear control arms. The ride is significantly better and the response crisp.
Upcoming:
1. Rebuilt rear drive shaft: Waiting on the yoke assy. Next week: $69
2. Drill out busted nuts in frame for rear sway bar. The sway really isn't that bad and I've gotten used to driving without them.
3. Replace bolt into frame for OME Stabilizer: busted that one too...waiting for a replacement bolt that attached to the frame side of the stabilizer from Slee & Co. I've also gotten used to driving without one of these too.
4. Rear Upper control arm DIY adjustable joints (when $$$ available)
5. Stainless steel brake lines (sitting on shelf)
6. OEM Toyota Exhaust manifolds and exhaust gaskets
Results:
In-town and on highway the ride is significantly and noticeably better. I am amazed at how just replacing things out will make a big difference in how the rig handles. It really is like having a new truck.
The correction of the suspension components has made a big difference (+ difference). I am now becoming a believer of correcting for lift geometry...it might cost more $$$ up front, but I think that in the end and in the long run the benefits definitely out weigh the cost issues.
Total OEM costs: ~$1478
Total aftermarket costs: (not including springs/shocks/stabilizer): ~$367
Total Hours: ~30
Phew.
Pics for those who enjoy this kinda crap.
I must say that I gain more and more respect for both this rig and the Toyota design team. They really wanted this to be the toughest rig around...I think they've succeeded.
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
While what I did might be old hat to the experienced heads here, I just wanted to write up a few words about some work I did recently on the rig.
First off, I want to say thanks to Christo and Ben and the rest of the folks at Slee. These guys know their stuff and they are an extremely important asset to our community. Also, I want to give a shout out to Tim Harris (gray FJ60) and Kirk McCauley (green 6" lifted FZJ80) from the Akron, OH area--they were kind enough to take time out of their day to weld and let me use their shop and tools; I couldn't have done it without their help and expertise.
1. Rebuilt Front Drive shaft:
After my OME heavy lift, apparently the angle up front really didn't jive with the truck. That said, I blew a rear u-joint going into the t-case. (reference thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53309)
So I pulled the front drive shaft and had it rebuilt by Sam Winer (http://www.samwinermotors.com/) here in Akron, OH. They deal specifically with heavy truck equipment and they did a wonderful job rebuilding the front axle (and making sure to assemble it 90 degrees out of phase--that threw them for a second). I gave them OEM Toyota joints, flange, dust cover, and yoke assy. and they put it together, balanced it, greased it up, and painted it.
2. Slee sway bar drops:
Both front and back (though backs aren't in yet because of a couple of busted bolts in the frame.... )
3. OME Castor Bushings--Front Control Arms:
I can't believe how much better the handling and the ride is with the bushings up front. I assume that the castor was also corrected as the driveline vibrations are gone and no clunkity-clunk sounds. They were rather easy to put in actually...now that I've done four... I used CDan's explanation which was indeed the easiest to follow and the most clearly written; if it's not in the FAQ's, it should be: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=60293&postcount=32
Once you get the arms off, it's pretty simple to see what the OME folks mean.
By the way, these arms are definitely the biggest pieces of metal I've seen. They are enourmous--the folks over at Toy really thought them out. They are made to last. The re-install was the toughest part, as lining up the holes was difficult (as well as nerve racking...hoping that the bushings were pressed in correctly--7.25" was right on the money). Definitely a two person job...I almost broke my back trying to pry the front axle back in line with the rear frame attachment of the control arms...they weigh a ton!
4. Slee Adjustable front and rear panhard DIY joints:
These are some beautifully machined pieces of metal. The directions ( http://sleeoffroad.com/installation/diy_adjuster_install.htm ) at Slee's site were perfect and Tim Harris's clean TIG welds were spot on. I painted them afterwards and the installation was simple. The truck no longer leans and alignment is nicely corrected.
5. New OEM Toyota Bolts/Nuts/Washers:
While I'm in there, might as well start making some spares. I assume the old ones were fine on all the big pieces of metal, but as the logic goes here--better to have spares then to not have them.
6. New OEM Bushings--All control arms:
I figured after 150K or so of riding on the same bushings, a new set of bushings might be in order to smoothen out the ride and tighten up the body/suspension movements. Front control arm rears were replaced, along with front and rear panhards, upper and lower rear control arms. The ride is significantly better and the response crisp.
Upcoming:
1. Rebuilt rear drive shaft: Waiting on the yoke assy. Next week: $69
2. Drill out busted nuts in frame for rear sway bar. The sway really isn't that bad and I've gotten used to driving without them.
3. Replace bolt into frame for OME Stabilizer: busted that one too...waiting for a replacement bolt that attached to the frame side of the stabilizer from Slee & Co. I've also gotten used to driving without one of these too.
4. Rear Upper control arm DIY adjustable joints (when $$$ available)
5. Stainless steel brake lines (sitting on shelf)
6. OEM Toyota Exhaust manifolds and exhaust gaskets
Results:
In-town and on highway the ride is significantly and noticeably better. I am amazed at how just replacing things out will make a big difference in how the rig handles. It really is like having a new truck.
The correction of the suspension components has made a big difference (+ difference). I am now becoming a believer of correcting for lift geometry...it might cost more $$$ up front, but I think that in the end and in the long run the benefits definitely out weigh the cost issues.
Total OEM costs: ~$1478
Total aftermarket costs: (not including springs/shocks/stabilizer): ~$367
Total Hours: ~30
Phew.
Pics for those who enjoy this kinda crap.
I must say that I gain more and more respect for both this rig and the Toyota design team. They really wanted this to be the toughest rig around...I think they've succeeded.
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH