Need Help Identifying Suspension Components

[jdn1299]

I recently purchased a 1994 Land Cruiser out of state. I had my dad drive it to his house for me until I fly out in a few weeks to drive it home. Unfortunately, he is out of town so he isn't able to answer my questions. I am trying to figure out what suspension upgrades the previous owner completed to see if I'd like to change anything when I have access to my dad's shop in a few weeks. I had someone send me pictures of the front & rear suspension, but I haven't been able to figure it out based on these pictures. The seller said he put an OME 2.5" lift on it, but I can't confirm. It looks like it has Bilstein 4600s, but I can't identify the springs.

I'm hoping someone on here can tell me what is on the truck, and maybe some opinions on the set-up. This is my first post on this thread, so I hope I didn't screw anything up. I really appreciate any help!

Front Driver's side:

Front Passenger's Side:

Rear Driver's Side:

Rear Passenger's Side:

 

[Brindleboxer]

Looks like a simple lift, they said it was OME and from the pictures I wouldn't say otherwise. The shocks may even be OME not Bilstein. The steering stabilizer looks OME and it has corrections bushings and it has adjustable front and rear bars.
I would say get there drive it home and then decide if you dislike the ride and articulation. I know you said your Dad's place has a shop but why replace items that might not need to be replaced. 2.5" lift isn't bad and should get most people to where they want to go and back. I have said it many times before: "What is your intended use?"
While at your Dads, things I would check are the brake hose (Articulate/flex the suspension and ensure they are long enough and not strained (or worn). Also check all the suspension bushings.
Congrats on the purchase and the hopefully many years of ownership.

 

[jdn1299]

Looks like a simple lift, they said it was OME and from the pictures I wouldn't say otherwise. The shocks may even be OME not Bilstein. The steering stabilizer looks OME and it has corrections bushings and it has adjustable front and rear bars.
I would say get there drive it home and then decide if you dislike the ride and articulation. I know you said your Dad's place has a shop but why replace items that might not need to be replaced. 2.5" lift isn't bad and should get most people to where they want to go and back. I have said it many times before: "What is your intended use?"
While at your Dads, things I would check are the brake hose (Articulate/flex the suspension and ensure they are long enough and not strained (or worn). Also check all the suspension bushings.
Congrats on the purchase and the hopefully many years of ownership.

Thanks for the response, and for the recommendations! The new truck will be replacing my 3rd gen 4runner, which I built out for overlanding trips. The new Land Cruiser will technically be my daily driver, but I live near downtown Denver and I walk/bike most places. So most of the use will come from driving up into the mountains for skiing, fishing, camping, longer overlanding trips, etc. And yes, the 80 series has always been my dream truck so I intend on caring for it for a loooooong time!

The reason I'm asking is because I am putting a roof rack on, and plan to install some cargo drawers and upgrade to 35s once I scrape up enough cash (the truck already has a rear bumper with a tire carrier and jerry cans). With all the extra weight I plan on adding, I am concerned that the rear end will sag too much, especially once I put 35s on.

Here's my dilemma: My apartment is small and a few states away from my dad's shop in CA, and I don't have the space or resources to get under the truck and start wrenching away. Thus, if I determine that I need to change the suspension to compensate for the extra weight I'll be adding, it would be best for me to get it done when I pick it up. Alternatively, I could pay someone out here to do it, but I've always done this type of stuff myself because I like being knowledgeable about the components in case something goes wrong on the trail.

What would you do in this situation? There is always the chance I make some wheeling buddies who would let me work out of their space, but I'm hesitant to depend on that scenario coming to fruition. Thanks again!

 

[Brindleboxer]

Honestly, from what you said the lift height should be good (IMO) but as stated you may run into an issue with the spring rate. If the PO didn't tell you which spring combo they went with, you are essentially in unknown water. Here is a link to Slee and the specs on the 2.5" kit (OME Sport - 2.5" Suspension Lift'91-'97 Land Cruiser / Lexus LX 450 - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sus-kit-02/#front-springs) this will give you an estimate. I would hope they went with 2850 front and 2863 rear. I saved this link many moon ago from @TomH Don't swap the Med for Heavy OEM Springs - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dont-swap-the-med-for-heavy-oem-springs.44674/ as it has some good information on spring rate and identification. And this is just a good chart to have: Cruiser Outfitters - https://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_OME_coils.html.

An unscientific approach would be to add weight to the truck to "simulate" the addition of your desired items. This will give you a ballpark and how it compresses and what the ride would be like. Get your base measurement by measuring from the center of the hub (front and back) to the center of the wheel arch. Add the weight you estimate the drawer setup will add (remember to add a little extra for the proposed 35" tire) and measure again.

A consolation in this instance is the previous owner did the lift and had most of the heavy parts already installed (minus the drawers) and if they went by recommendation I would hope the springs are at least medium up front and heavy in the rear but without being able to read the manufacture tags (tags would be at the top of the spring if there) you are only guessing. The caster bushing being green I would say are Ironman as I do not recall OME ever coming in green.

IIRC 35" tires fit under a truck with 2.5" lift but may need wheel spacers depending on the wheel combo.

 

[jdn1299]

Honestly, from what you said the lift height should be good (IMO) but as stated you may run into an issue with the spring rate. If the PO didn't tell you which spring combo they went with, you are essentially in unknown water. Here is a link to Slee and the specs on the 2.5" kit (OME Sport - 2.5" Suspension Lift'91-'97 Land Cruiser / Lexus LX 450 - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sus-kit-02/#front-springs) this will give you an estimate. I would hope they went with 2850 front and 2863 rear. I saved this link many moon ago from @TomH Don't swap the Med for Heavy OEM Springs - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dont-swap-the-med-for-heavy-oem-springs.44674/ as it has some good information on spring rate and identification. And this is just a good chart to have: Cruiser Outfitters - https://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_OME_coils.html.

An unscientific approach would be to add weight to the truck to "simulate" the addition of your desired items. This will give you a ballpark and how it compresses and what the ride would be like. Get your base measurement by measuring from the center of the hub (front and back) to the center of the wheel arch. Add the weight you estimate the drawer setup will add (remember to add a little extra for the proposed 35" tire) and measure again.

A consolation in this instance is the previous owner did the lift and had most of the heavy parts already installed (minus the drawers) and if they went by recommendation I would hope the springs are at least medium up front and heavy in the rear but without being able to read the manufacture tags (tags would be at the top of the spring if there) you are only guessing. The caster bushing being green I would say are Ironman as I do not recall OME ever coming in green.

IIRC 35" tires fit under a truck with 2.5" lift but may need wheel spacers depending on the wheel combo.

Those links are very helpful. It's good to know that if the springs are medium, I can just add a spacer to get the same net effect. I really appreciate the insight, cheers!

 

[BILT4ME]

I recently purchased a 1994 Land Cruiser out of state. I had my dad drive it to his house for me until I fly out in a few weeks to drive it home. Unfortunately, he is out of town so he isn't able to answer my questions. I am trying to figure out what suspension upgrades the previous owner completed to see if I'd like to change anything when I have access to my dad's shop in a few weeks. I had someone send me pictures of the front & rear suspension, but I haven't been able to figure it out based on these pictures. The seller said he put an OME 2.5" lift on it, but I can't confirm. It looks like it has Bilstein 4600s, but I can't identify the springs.

I'm hoping someone on here can tell me what is on the truck, and maybe some opinions on the set-up. This is my first post on this thread, so I hope I didn't screw anything up. I really appreciate any help!

Front Driver's side:
View attachment 3789386
Front Passenger's Side:
View attachment 3789383

Rear Driver's Side:View attachment 3789385
Rear Passenger's Side:
View attachment 3789384

I agree with @Brindleboxer .

I do see a few other things that need attention.
1) LR spring appears to be sitting on the bracket below it. Not sure if it's an optical illusion or not.
2) Exhaust. It looks like the PO may have done exhaust, but terminated below the truck in front of the rear axle. This is not good due to heat and due to getting carbon monoxide into the cabin.
I suggest you look into new exhaust, or at least having an extended pipe go over the rear axle and out the rear of the truck, at a very minimum, out the side of the truck. Don't have it dump under the truck.
3) Also need to extend the links for the sway bars. They're at a pretty steep angle and need to be flattened out to let them give better movement geometrically.
4) Adjust the LSPV bracket on the rear axle. It looks like it is still in the stock position after the lift. It should be raised on that stud to get more proper movement. If not, you will be doing almost all braking with the front brakes.
5) Your front knuckle balls are dry. Pump a tube of moly grease (Valvoline Palladium) into each front knuckle. Check the level in there with a zip tie to see if there is anything in there first.
6) Check all fluid levels. Change all of them if you don't have any service records. This is part of baselining.
7) Almost looks like you may have a leaking rear pinion seal. Looks like the front side of the rear differential is wet, along with the shocks and sway bar. Typical indicator with oil being slung all over. Easy fix right where it is.

How many miles on the truck?

How about some overall pics?

Cruiser Outfitters (CruiserTeq) can probably advise you on the brand and part of the springs based on the color and if there are any color dots on the springs. My OME springs are light blue, but they still have the factory tags on them. Mine are 2.5" lift heavies.

There are part numbers on the bottom end of the shocks in order to confirm exactly what they are.

The steering damper looks to be OEM, not OME, as it is still black. Don't change it unless it's totally worn out. The OEM one is less expensive and works very well. Mine was not worn out when I replaced it at 275K miles. I replaced it because it came with my suspension kit.

If you are going to do intermittent loads, add a set of airbags in the rear. Summit Racing can supply the rear Airlift brand bags (there's a thread on here somewhere that you can get the longer bags for the lifted trucks). The kit is about $100. I have the airbags in mine in addition to the OME heavies because I carry a power wheelchair and lift on the back of mine, adding up to 525 LB hanging a foot from the rear bumper.

Be aware that the LC gets poor gas mileage, especially when you put on bigger tires and load it heavy. I get an average of 11.5 MPG and I'm topped out about 6400 LB and have 33" tires. I do LOTS of road miles as mine is my DD and I run 15K-20K miles /yr.

 

[jdn1299]

I agree with @Brindleboxer .

I do see a few other things that need attention.
1) LR spring appears to be sitting on the bracket below it. Not sure if it's an optical illusion or not.
2) Exhaust. It looks like the PO may have done exhaust, but terminated below the truck in front of the rear axle. This is not good due to heat and due to getting carbon monoxide into the cabin.
I suggest you look into new exhaust, or at least having an extended pipe go over the rear axle and out the rear of the truck, at a very minimum, out the side of the truck. Don't have it dump under the truck.
3) Also need to extend the links for the sway bars. They're at a pretty steep angle and need to be flattened out to let them give better movement geometrically.
4) Adjust the LSPV bracket on the rear axle. It looks like it is still in the stock position after the lift. It should be raised on that stud to get more proper movement. If not, you will be doing almost all braking with the front brakes.
5) Your front knuckle balls are dry. Pump a tube of moly grease (Valvoline Palladium) into each front knuckle. Check the level in there with a zip tie to see if there is anything in there first.
6) Check all fluid levels. Change all of them if you don't have any service records. This is part of baselining.
7) Almost looks like you may have a leaking rear pinion seal. Looks like the front side of the rear differential is wet, along with the shocks and sway bar. Typical indicator with oil being slung all over. Easy fix right where it is.

How many miles on the truck?

How about some overall pics?

Cruiser Outfitters (CruiserTeq) can probably advise you on the brand and part of the springs based on the color and if there are any color dots on the springs. My OME springs are light blue, but they still have the factory tags on them. Mine are 2.5" lift heavies.

There are part numbers on the bottom end of the shocks in order to confirm exactly what they are.

The steering damper looks to be OEM, not OME, as it is still black. Don't change it unless it's totally worn out. The OEM one is less expensive and works very well. Mine was not worn out when I replaced it at 275K miles. I replaced it because it came with my suspension kit.

If you are going to do intermittent loads, add a set of airbags in the rear. Summit Racing can supply the rear Airlift brand bags (there's a thread on here somewhere that you can get the longer bags for the lifted trucks). The kit is about $100. I have the airbags in mine in addition to the OME heavies because I carry a power wheelchair and lift on the back of mine, adding up to 525 LB hanging a foot from the rear bumper.

Be aware that the LC gets poor gas mileage, especially when you put on bigger tires and load it heavy. I get an average of 11.5 MPG and I'm topped out about 6400 LB and have 33" tires. I do LOTS of road miles as mine is my DD and I run 15K-20K miles /yr.

Thanks for the thorough response! I'll have 3-4 days to wrench on it before I drive back to CO, so I will look into all your recommendations.

It's a 94 FJ80 with 218k miles. I bought it from a mechanic, and it seemed like he took really good care of it while he owned it. I will still check all the fluids though.

I'm swapping out my 3rd Gen 4Runner for this, so I'm a little accustomed to the poor gas mileage. But 11.5.... That will sting for a bit.

Here are some pics!

I have a prinsu rack in transit, so that basket/lightbar combo is going. I'm also gonna fab some rock sliders while I'm home.

And I had to show some love to my first rig!

 

[mudgudgeon]

@BILT4ME has given you a pretty good list.

I definitely agree about fixing that exhaust. Having it end under the floor can be a killer on a long road trip if carbon monoxide finds its way into a closed car through open holes in the floor pan.
Also, wouldn't pass a yearly road worthy inspection where I'm from. How strict are inspections where you are in Colorado?

I've lived in apartments where working on a car isn't really practical. Given you're taking a new to you 30 year old truck into that scenario, concentrate on baselining the basics so it is reliable for as long as possible.
If you have to start paying a shop to do repairs once you have the truck back home, 80s can become an expensive hobby.

The PO being a mechanic could be a blessing, could be a curse. Unless you've had an extensive chat and info dump from him, I wouldn't necessarily take it as a blessing until proven to be so.

Do you have engine bay pics?

While you have a few shop days available, plan on doing some baselining. Search, there's heaps of threads on the topic.
Just be aware, it's really easy to go down the MUD-OCD rabbit hole, and before you know it, you have ordered a bunch of shiny zinc plated OEM nuts and bolts you don't really need.

I would change ( not just check) all major fluids.
Engine oil, diff oils, transfer oil, brake fluid, coolant. Blinker fluid.
Check auto trans fluid, power steering fluid.

100% plan on re-adjusting front wheel bearings. Search for "wheel bearing preload".
It's extremely common to get these wrong, even for seasoned mechanics ( or particularly seasoned mechanics). Toyota used large, high quality wheel bearings.
Adjusted right, they'll last 100s of k miles. If thrown in like it was Hyundai hatchback, they'll be a problem.

100% plan on checking knuckle studs and nuts. Search "check yer nuts".

100% inspect all engine coolant hoses, particularly PHH, and hoses under/ around the intake manifold.
100% inspect all vacuum hoses in/around/ under the intake manifold.
These last two, along with wheel bearings, will tell you how thorough the PO was IMOP

If rubber hoses are original, or 20 years old, they are on borrowed time.

 

[jdn1299]

@BILT4ME has given you a pretty good list.

I definitely agree about fixing that exhaust. Having it end under the floor can be a killer on a long road trip if carbon monoxide finds its way into a closed car through open holes in the floor pan.
Also, wouldn't pass a yearly road worthy inspection where I'm from. How strict are inspections where you are in Colorado?

I've lived in apartments where working on a car isn't really practical. Given you're taking a new to you 30 year old truck into that scenario, concentrate on baselining the basics so it is reliable for as long as possible.
If you have to start paying a shop to do repairs once you have the truck back home, 80s can become an expensive hobby.

The PO being a mechanic could be a blessing, could be a curse. Unless you've had an extensive chat and info dump from him, I wouldn't necessarily take it as a blessing until proven to be so.

Do you have engine bay pics?

While you have a few shop days available, plan on doing some baselining. Search, there's heaps of threads on the topic.
Just be aware, it's really easy to go down the MUD-OCD rabbit hole, and before you know it, you have ordered a bunch of shiny zinc plated OEM nuts and bolts you don't really need.

I would change ( not just check) all major fluids.
Engine oil, diff oils, transfer oil, brake fluid, coolant. Blinker fluid.
Check auto trans fluid, power steering fluid.

100% plan on re-adjusting front wheel bearings. Search for "wheel bearing preload".
It's extremely common to get these wrong, even for seasoned mechanics ( or particularly seasoned mechanics). Toyota used large, high quality wheel bearings.
Adjusted right, they'll last 100s of k miles. If thrown in like it was Hyundai hatchback, they'll be a problem.

100% plan on checking knuckle studs and nuts. Search "check yer nuts".

100% inspect all engine coolant hoses, particularly PHH, and hoses under/ around the intake manifold.
100% inspect all vacuum hoses in/around/ under the intake manifold.
These last two, along with wheel bearings, will tell you how thorough the PO was IMOP

If rubber hoses are original, or 20 years old, they are on borrowed time.

Thanks for the input. I'm super excited to get over there and start wrenching.

I'll have to read up on vehicle inspections. I registered my 98 in CO from CA a few years back and all I had to do was emissions.