It’s gonna be a while but I can provide this. Something else I obsess over is the oil analysis reports, I do one each oil change. They know their audience and really butter me up with their comments.
Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter 04UZJ100
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Positive Blackstone comments are the fatherly affirmation I never had
100%! It’s like getting the glowing parent teacher conference where your child the is class angel.
Lol. Just sent my first sample in. Can't wait!
I never tried it, but I do believe butter would have worked fine in my old 3100. Any straight 30 wt. non detergent oil that came in a gallon jug was acceptable. STP oil syrup if I was going on a trip, but a stick or two of butter would have been interesting.
There is a oil analysis thread on here somewhere… post your results there if you want further validation for all your TLC on your TLC.
Because it’s mine. Not all “synthetic” oils are created equal. You’re a smart guy. I’m sure you know this. Base stocks, additive packs, etc all matter. None of us are on this forum because the Land Cruiser is “jUSt aS gUd” as the bronco, Tacoma, Kia, etc. I hope you continue to have good results. I am at peace with my decision.
me too. But I demand stickers with my report.
EDIT: I’m even considering going to 0W8. Just for fun.
Jk. Not even with someone else’s car.
I use Pennzoil UP 5W30 at 5k intervals as the oil is good quality, is about $28 per 1.25 gallon at Walmart and at 5k intervals viscosity through shearing and or fuel dilation is never excessive while additives do not run out to do their job.
Going for more expensive AMSOIL or boutique HPL does not make sense to me. Regarding HPL, why would you need more cleaning and what does that do to the other properties of the oil and longevity of the seals?
Each their own of course.
Going for more expensive AMSOIL or boutique HPL does not make sense to me. Regarding HPL, why would you need more cleaning and what does that do to the other properties of the oil and longevity of the seals?
Each their own of course.
Last edited:
xeuxaz
SILVER Star
I can see HPL being a good option if you bought the truck used and weren’t entirely sure about its maintenance history. In that case, performing a couple of shorter oil changes (around 2,000 to 3,000 miles each) and inspecting the filter afterward could be a smart approach before settling into a regular interval using cheaper but still good stuff. (PUP or M1, etc)
At that point, though, maybe leverage Blackstone too... I'm not sure!
At that point, though, maybe leverage Blackstone too... I'm not sure!
I use the pricy AMSOIL because we tow and tow off road. My OCI ends up being about 6500-7500 due to our road trip schedule. To change just before our big trips would yield a really short interval of 1000 or 1500 miles than a more regular 5000ish one.
Last year our Cruiser was driven 13,094 and, of those, 10,813 of those were towing. That’s roughly 83% of driven miles being towing.
I follow the fluids are cheap philosophy. I also change the diffs at 15k and t-case atom or before 30k.
Last year our Cruiser was driven 13,094 and, of those, 10,813 of those were towing. That’s roughly 83% of driven miles being towing.
I follow the fluids are cheap philosophy. I also change the diffs at 15k and t-case atom or before 30k.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
I am approaching 225k miles. Previous owner did oil changes every 5k at the dealer, I’ve done them since using Toyota stuff then PP or M1.
Still, after a whole lot of miles even some very well maintained engines get varnish in areas that see less oil splash, or other effects from imperfect crankcase ventilation systems.
I’m entertaining the thought of a single change of HPL to clean whatever crap there is, out at my next change.. the 225k mile one. If people really are seeing this stuff knock the junk loose, it’s worth a shot considering my mileage.
I’ll probably remove my oil fill tube soon to have a look under the valve cover with my new bore scope.. what I find there will make this decision for me.
Still, after a whole lot of miles even some very well maintained engines get varnish in areas that see less oil splash, or other effects from imperfect crankcase ventilation systems.
I’m entertaining the thought of a single change of HPL to clean whatever crap there is, out at my next change.. the 225k mile one. If people really are seeing this stuff knock the junk loose, it’s worth a shot considering my mileage.
I’ll probably remove my oil fill tube soon to have a look under the valve cover with my new bore scope.. what I find there will make this decision for me.
I get the logic and you maybe spot on using HPL once or twice, just be aware in theory this can also plug a small bore lubrication path in the process, so is it really needed?
bloc
SILVER Star
I’m banking on most of the deposits to be cleaned being within the crank case and the filter keeping them from making it to the oil galleys. But I’ll dig into that possibility more before I pull the trigger.
As mentioned, if I can’t find any evidence of varnish I’ll probably hold off.
xeuxaz
SILVER Star
Post pics of what you find with your new tool.
bloc
SILVER Star
Noted
gray rider
SILVER Star
I think that this thread is analogous to: "Coffee is really good for you and prevents heart disease vs Coffee is really bad for you and ages your heart". (or insert red wine if you are so inclined....)
bloc
SILVER Star
Well, there's definitely some very light varnish but my gut is telling me to just keep doing what I'm doing.
I was able to get the borescope down to the crankshaft through the driver's side timing chain. The visible oil had 5k on it and just got dumped as part of an oil change today.
Again for the record, 220k miles, oil changes every 5k save for a couple that went to 7500 as a test. First ~155k using TGMO 0w-20 (produced by Mobil, I believe), after that mostly Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, then some Mobil1 5w-30. I'm running 5k on M1 0w-40 to see what that does for the occasional rhythmic valve tap that I get.
I was able to get the borescope down to the crankshaft through the driver's side timing chain. The visible oil had 5k on it and just got dumped as part of an oil change today.
Again for the record, 220k miles, oil changes every 5k save for a couple that went to 7500 as a test. First ~155k using TGMO 0w-20 (produced by Mobil, I believe), after that mostly Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, then some Mobil1 5w-30. I'm running 5k on M1 0w-40 to see what that does for the occasional rhythmic valve tap that I get.
