xeuxaz
SILVER Star
I thought we landed on using the plastic one again if it breaks. smirks as I stir the pot
Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW (1 Viewer)
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Yep, I like the plastic one with the right fitting removal tool so I can never damage the female thread in the block.
The fact valve covers are made of plastic and my 2014 535d has one as well as a plastic oil cap (which are all in great shape 11 year later including part of its life having gone theough IMO crazy 1600 degr F DPF regens) makes me not worried about Toyota Japan not knowing what to do regarding use of plastic pieces, certainly not an oil filter housing.
Until a dealer tech torques down the plastic oil filter cap where the plastic tabs break off when trying to remove it. It’s not a fun experience and why I swapped over to aluminum.
I don’t know how you even cross thread the aluminum filter housing onto the block. The beveled edge makes it fairly fool proof.
DIY’ing my oil changes and using 5W30 in the process so that eliminates dealer over torquing,
Whether there is a cross thread risk or not, I see no value in spending money on an aluminum one. I did buy this to make draining mess free and removal easy. Also the screw in funnel works well.
Note the latest version has a very good fit around the factory filter housing, been easy to remove and reinstall the same. Whatever drama witnessed by others is a none issue with the right tools.
www.motivxtools.com
Whether there is a cross thread risk or not, I see no value in spending money on an aluminum one. I did buy this to make draining mess free and removal easy. Also the screw in funnel works well.
Note the latest version has a very good fit around the factory filter housing, been easy to remove and reinstall the same. Whatever drama witnessed by others is a none issue with the right tools.
Toyota 2.0L - 5.7L Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Funnel Bundle
BUNDLE - Includes 64mm 14 flute oil filter wrench for many late model Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0L - 5.7L engines, along with a oil filter drain tool that makes the oil change process much cleaner by draining the filter housing prior to removal and an advanced engine oil funnel that allows for...
www.motivxtools.com
This is a great quality kit imo. I've got one and used it for draining the filter before I got my @bjowett awesome filter housing. I still use the fill funnel with every oil change.DIY’ing my oil changes and using 5W30 in the process so that eliminates dealer over torquing,
Whether there is a cross thread risk or not, I see no value in spending money on an aluminum one. I did buy this to make draining mess free and removal easy. Also the screw in funnel works well.
Note the latest version has a very good fit around the factory filter housing, been easy to remove and reinstall the same. Whatever drama witnessed by others is a none issue with the right tools.
Toyota 2.0L - 5.7L Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Funnel Bundle
BUNDLE - Includes 64mm 14 flute oil filter wrench for many late model Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0L - 5.7L engines, along with a oil filter drain tool that makes the oil change process much cleaner by draining the filter housing prior to removal and an advanced engine oil funnel that allows for...
bloc
SILVER Star
Thread diameter of that size with such a small pitch (relative to diameter), plus such a long blank section at the edge of the female part of the fixture, is basically impossible to cross-thread.
On top of the people-haulers with the assembly closer to the ground, they apparently put the aluminum parts on the higher performance/heavier duty applications using this oil filter format.. If there were increased risk of messing things up Toyota didn't seem aware of it.
Edit: **realizes pot is stirring
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I switched to AMSoil signature 5W-30 yesterday on my 80k oil change. Only had a K&N filter on hand and not sure when I made the decision to buy that. Seemed well made so hopefully won’t run into any issues. I dig the blue letter cap and picked one up last night.
Great oil. Get a different filter next time (as you were alluding to).
Anyone have experience with HPL? Pricey but seems like quality stuff.
www.advlubrication.com
Passenger Car Engine Oil
High Performance Lubricants’ passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. Oils formulated with specifically chosen esters can help to minimize intake valve deposits, maintain clean engines and provide elastomer...
www.advlubrication.com
They make the best oil you can buy.Anyone have experience with HPL? Pricey but seems like quality stuff.
Passenger Car Engine Oil
High Performance Lubricants’ passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. Oils formulated with specifically chosen esters can help to minimize intake valve deposits, maintain clean engines and provide elastomer...
No but I’ve heard good things from fellow mudders. I may give it a try after my supply of AMSOIL is gone.Anyone have experience with HPL? Pricey but seems like quality stuff.
Passenger Car Engine Oil
High Performance Lubricants’ passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. Oils formulated with specifically chosen esters can help to minimize intake valve deposits, maintain clean engines and provide elastomer...
I’ll be a test subject when I change my oil later this year. Going to give it a try.
My engine is pretty low miles so should be a good test subject. Seems like on higher mileage engines the cleaning power of this stuff can lead to some interesting finds in the filter.
My engine is pretty low miles so should be a good test subject. Seems like on higher mileage engines the cleaning power of this stuff can lead to some interesting finds in the filter.
I’ve been using it for a little while. Currently running a mix of 0w30/5w30 HPL premium plus passenger car in my sump. If you’ve used big box oil on your rig, I’d recommend switching your oil filter (and maybe oil too) at the 5k mark. It cleans like you wouldn’t believe.
I’ve run amsoil signature in another car exclusively since new and HPL still cleaned all sorts of carbon from God knows where. I know because I cut and inspected the oil filter.
My interest has been piqued. I’m at just shy of 40k miles and have rubbed amsoil since 5k and I feel like I have to try the HPL for science reasons now.
What filter do you run?
Yup this is consistent with what I’ve heard. I’m doing 5k oil and filter changes anyhow so won’t be a problem.
Excited to try it out when the time comes.
Right now I’m sticking with the anti Ea15k04. I’ve had some with glue media on the clean side that I made sure to let them know about so they can get their suppliers in order. The newest one I bought looked pristine and well built like the amsoil filters of old.
@Mingus Dew if you’re not in a cold climate and doing 5k changes, you may be able to get great results with their passenger car oil too.
From HPL when I reached out a while back about premium plus vs passenger: Our regular PMO will be just fine down to 0° and has the same additive package as the more expensive oil built off of PAO. If you don’t have the ultra cold temperatures, then you probably are overspending.
- Thread starter
- #657
Can someone tell me why we are running high performance oil in a basic V8?
What noticeable difference will this make in the life of the vehicle vs 5k oil changes with a quality synthetic?
Nada.
What noticeable difference will this make in the life of the vehicle vs 5k oil changes with a quality synthetic?
Nada.
It might lead to a cleaner engine over the operating life. It’s been shown to remove carbon buildup from a variety of different engines.
At the end of the day it’s certainly not going to hurt anything and I also like to support smaller businesses making good products where possible. An extra $150 a year or so on oil is fine by me for top of the line stuff.
At the end of the day it’s certainly not going to hurt anything and I also like to support smaller businesses making good products where possible. An extra $150 a year or so on oil is fine by me for top of the line stuff.
I am one of those obsessive types that leans towards over maintenance. Partly because I enjoy turning the wrenches and also because we budget for it and want to see some real high mileage outta this thing.
Also, years ago in my late teens and early twenties, I worked in an engine shop and I saw first hand what poor maintenance looks like. We pulled apart some horror shows, and some pristine stuff as well. I still have nightmares about the stench of removing gross head bolts.
I am trying to understand what carbon buildup is this oil removing? If it's in the crankcase, then the oil that's has been used to begin with wasn't up to par to begin with and has been lacquering and varnishing. I seriously doubt any high quality synthetic is doing that.
I would like to see an oil analysis after using a high quality synthetic like Amsoil Signature, Penzoil Ultra, Mobil 1, etc done, then another one done on the next oil change after switching to HPL to scientifically prove that there is a difference or it is just hyperbole.
I would like to see an oil analysis after using a high quality synthetic like Amsoil Signature, Penzoil Ultra, Mobil 1, etc done, then another one done on the next oil change after switching to HPL to scientifically prove that there is a difference or it is just hyperbole.
