Unplug or remove PWR DOOR OFF button? (1 Viewer)

[WiseLithium]

It's somewhat common for people to accidentally disable the rear power lift gate with this button, but I'm curious if the power function works if the switch is unplugged and/or removed. Honestly, I don't know why it exists. I'm looking to add an air compressor switch, and I was thinking of just removing this switch and using its place for the new switch (this seemed easier than making a panel to replace the little cubby left of the steering wheel on my LX). I guess it really comes down to 2 questions:

1) Can the power lift gate function with the PWR DOOR OFF button unplugged?

2) Is there any good reason this switch is needed? Why does it even exist?

 

[terrapin]

I didn't remove my PWR Door Off switch, but I popped it out of the slot and stashed it under the dash within easy reach in case I needed it. Haven't needed it for a year and a half so far.

Just in case I wrapped it with a thin zip tie so it couldn't accidentally be pushed. Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the actual switch, but this generic one shows a groove similar to where I put the zip tie so the button cannot be pressed.

Here's where I mounted the Redarc button on my 2010 LX. All of the slots were used, so I removed the button that disables the automatic rear hatch. I never saw any need to do that. Just in case though, I zip tied the switch so it wouldn't accidentally enable and stashed the switch just behind the panel within easy reach.

I like this location because in an emergency situation I can easily hit it with the back of my right hand without having to search for the button. I even practiced a few times and it is a very natural action.

Hmm. Just noticed that gap in my panels. I'd better go check that out.

 

[1world1love]

There have been quite a few people that have just stashed it behind the panel. There is plenty of room back there. Just remove the switch plate and reconnect it with the harness and find a spot to snug it into, maybe zip-tie it to secure it.

 

[TeCKis300]

Agreed with others if that's how you want to wire it.

Thinking outside the box, if you're using the typical dual arb mounted otherhood, it could be just as easy to locate the power switch there. From a workflow perspective, it may be more streamlined if you have to open to hood anyways. Turning off the pump and decompressing the lines could all be done right there, instead of having to go around and into the cab to turn off and then going back underhood to disconnect air lines.

 

[1world1love]

Agreed with others if that's how you want to wire it.

Thinking outside the box, if you're using the typical dual arb mounted otherhood, it could be just as easy to locate the power switch there. From a workflow perspective, it may be more streamlined if you have to open to hood anyways. Turning off the pump and decompressing the lines could all be done right there, instead of having to go around and into the cab to turn off and then going back underhood to disconnect air lines.

This is a great point and worth thinking about. Having to open the hood, get everything connected, and then get in the cab to turn on the compressor is sort of a pain unless you are using a morflate type setup.

 

[Slow Paddler]

As for the use case, I’m guessing that it is for occasions where an obstruction blocks fully opening the liftgate, such as a roof-mounted kayak, ladder, or low ceiling. Activating the lock out prevents accidental opening from the fob or behind the vehicle. Just guessing, though, as I’ve never used it, nor had a power liftgate before.

 

[nuclearbeef]

I turn the power off because I hate how slow the hatch opens under power.
Wife turns it on because she likes the power function.
My button actually sees some use.

 

[yonah]

Is there any good reason this switch is needed? Why does it even exist?

As for the use case, I’m guessing that it is for occasions where an obstruction blocks fully opening the liftgate, such as a roof-mounted kayak, ladder, or low ceiling. Activating the lock out prevents accidental opening from the fob or behind the vehicle. Just guessing, though, as I’ve never used it, nor had a power liftgate before.

Just as @Slow Paddler mentioned, the switch is definitely useful if you have something located at the rear of the vehicle that would contact the rear hatch during its arc upwards when opening.

For an additional example: I deactivate the rear hatch whenever the hitch-mounted bike rack is installed with bikes loaded on it.

I have also seen guys mention on this forum that they permanently activate the switch following the install of a rear bumper with a swing-out tire carrier.

 

[WiseLithium]

As for the use case, I’m guessing that it is for occasions where an obstruction blocks fully opening the liftgate, such as a roof-mounted kayak, ladder, or low ceiling. Activating the lock out prevents accidental opening from the fob or behind the vehicle. Just guessing, though, as I’ve never used it, nor had a power liftgate before.

Just as @Slow Paddler mentioned, the switch is definitely useful if you have something located at the rear of the vehicle that would contact the rear hatch during its arc upwards when opening.

For an additional example: I deactivate the rear hatch whenever the hitch-mounted bike rack is installed with bikes loaded on it.

I have also seen guys mention on this forum that they permanently activate the switch following the install of a rear bumper with a swing-out tire carrier.

This makes a lot of sense, especially for people that use the auto-open functionality. I hadn't even used the auto-open until last night when I was messing with it and saw it mentioned in some threads. I had thought about just tucking it in the dash but I didn't have a good use case. Now I think it makes sense to zip tie it semi-accessibly just in case it's needed.

 

[WiseLithium]

Agreed with others if that's how you want to wire it.

Thinking outside the box, if you're using the typical dual arb mounted otherhood, it could be just as easy to locate the power switch there. From a workflow perspective, it may be more streamlined if you have to open to hood anyways. Turning off the pump and decompressing the lines could all be done right there, instead of having to go around and into the cab to turn off and then going back underhood to disconnect air lines.

This is actually all your fault, as this was inspired by your OBA thread.

My plan is to mount the compressor on the crash bar, find somewhere to place the tank, and have couplers tucked into the front grille and somewhere in the back. I'll also have a manifold under the hood in case I need to have anything else tap off (I like to pretend I'll get an ARB locker some day).

 

[TeCKis300]

This is actually all your fault, as this was inspired by your OBA thread.

My plan is to mount the compressor on the crash bar, find somewhere to place the tank, and have couplers tucked into the front grille and somewhere in the back. I'll also have a manifold under the hood in case I need to have anything else tap off (I like to pretend I'll get an ARB locker some day).

Guilty as accused.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole further

Power Steering Relocation Bracket and Dual OBA

Having done a power steering relocation mod recently for a yet to be completed twinz project, thought this would be useful for others on how to create a simple and effective relocation bracket. I know others have needed to relocate the PS for other reasons, including fitting dual batts. Here's...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[1world1love]

Guilty as accused.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole further

Power Steering Relocation Bracket and Dual OBA

Having done a power steering relocation mod recently for a yet to be completed twinz project, thought this would be useful for others on how to create a simple and effective relocation bracket. I know others have needed to relocate the PS for other reasons, including fitting dual batts. Here's...

forum.ih8mud.com

This location is much better than the crash bar IMO.