U joint zerks inaccessible (1 Viewer)
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It generally requires working the shaft into position to get to the sweet spot where I can get a grease gun on it. I can't tell if it's assembled incorrectly. Someone with way more experience will need to answer that one.
Are those aftermarket replacement U-joints?? Not sure if you can get to that zerk??
For Toyota U-joints there's a couple of zerks that are hard to get to, but if you rotate the driveshaft (move the vehicle) so the zerks are pointing up at between 10 and 2 O'clock (upwards) you can usually fit the nozzle of the grease gun in from above (while laying on your back). Generally you have to hold the nozzle on with one hand while working the lever with the other. Takes a bit of practice.
For Toyota U-joints there's a couple of zerks that are hard to get to, but if you rotate the driveshaft (move the vehicle) so the zerks are pointing up at between 10 and 2 O'clock (upwards) you can usually fit the nozzle of the grease gun in from above (while laying on your back). Generally you have to hold the nozzle on with one hand while working the lever with the other. Takes a bit of practice.
Another option you could try, is using a needle fitting adapter to reach those Zerk fittings. To use this adapter you use the needle tip of this adapter to depress, and hold the spring loaded ball down in the end of the U joint Zerk fitting while you pump your grease gun.
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Get a needle grease adapter, works on my u-joints.
That looks 180 degrees out on the joint. Like it was replaced and flipped on the wrong side right before reassembly.
Try rotating the axle to prove me a goober.
Try rotating the axle to prove me a goober.
You could just unscrew them and replace with 90 zerks.
Horrible pictures from a flip phone apparently.
Ya, that shows nothing. Sorry about that.
- Thread starter
- #10
The needle might work for the second one but with the first one theres no way to rotate the driveshaft or get enough of an angle on there to get a needle to the top. It's literally facing right into the flange.
I cant even get any sort of wrench in there to take the zerk off, will needle nose pliers work?
View attachment 2390350View attachment 2390351
I cant even get any sort of wrench in there to take the zerk off, will needle nose pliers work?
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Box end 8mm or whatever it is wont work?
PS you can also just unbolt the flange and angle the joint as needed to remove it. or regrease it and move on.
PS you can also just unbolt the flange and angle the joint as needed to remove it. or regrease it and move on.
Mark the joint with paint before taking apart. Just makes it dummy proof.
Is the DS in backwards? That can happen up front. The fat part should be towards the TC, the skinny part forward so it will clear the stablilzer bar at full articulation. Mine came that way and I put up with it for awhile. It was tight but as others noted you get it in the sweet spot and it'll work. It may work even better with the DS facing the right way now, but haven't greased it since my tech got it turned around right.
Try using one of these. It's a 90 degree grease fitting adapter. I've used similar for ball joint zerks in hard to access areas.
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- #15
Just bought one of these, I'm hoping it's not too thick to fit in the space to reach the first zerk cause it's awfully tight in the direction its facing.
