Two questions . wheelbearings and o2 sensor

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I got 86 4 runner. Front wheelbearings makeing noise got play in it . do I need a inner and outer on this truck ? First time taken it apart what exactly do I tell Autozone I need .


Second question in the real world where u don't have emissions tests. How does the 22 re run when the 02 sensor is unhooked or bad. Does it go into ruff idle poor milage. Or truck sill basiclynrun the same as always on the old trucks
 
It runs like crap without the O2 sensor. And you'll need an inner and out brearing along with the races. You don't need a rac setter though with these trucks.
 
OK thanks.
 
I would tell AutoZone "hi I just need a couple rolls of shop towels, thanks" then send a note to CDan with your VIN, that you need to order a set of OEM wheel bearings. The original ones lasted 30 years, why mess with that.

Yes disconnecting the O2 sensor will make the engine run like crap and your gas mileage will go way down.
 
Wheel bearing, inner: 90368-49084-77, $74.39 list (discount price $55.79)
Wheel bearing, outer: 90368-45087-77, $39.16 list (discount price $29.37)

PM Cruiser Dan. Tell him what you need. Ask for the "Mud discount." Have the satisfaction that you put quality parts in your truck.
 
A comment on the Ox sensor. Toyota uses Denso sensors. The price from the dealer can be very high. You can purchase them aftermarket for a whole lot less money. In your case, the Denso part is 234-1056 and runs less than $25.
 
Why were on the topic of O2 sensors, I've read that they should be changed out every so often like a typical maintenance item. Is this true? If so, how does one know when to replace theirs? Pappy, does that part number reflect just RE sensors or the R as well? Lastly what's the deal with the one wire sensor vs the 4 wire ones? Sorry for the hi-Jack in advance!
 
I believe 4 wire sensors are heated. An you typically test them with a multimeter to see if there fluctuating correctly. As in small changes and if it's huge one then it's bad. And I do believe Toyota calls to replace them every 50k.
 
Correct. The 3 and 4 wire sensors are heated. Newer trucks were heated while our old junk was a single wire.

I don't know if the California 22r used this sensor, but it should not be hard to find out. I would suspect so.
 
I know the 88 and 89 I have used 4 wires. And my 22R did have an 02 sensor at the exhaust manifold.
 
I know they are a maintenance item and are supposed to be replaced occasionally, but I hafta admit that I believe mine is original. I know I've never changed it. I assume that since I don't get any CEL codes that it's still functioning.

Pretty sure the ones in the Highlander are factory too, 12 years and 180K miles.

I had to replace 2 of the 4 in my previous ES300. When the front bank one went, the engine would hardly run.
 
Ok fellas next question would be that if I replace my single wire sensor should I throw a heated one in? Is this possible or can you not mix O2 sensors in between years? Is there benefits of running a heated one? How would one wire up a 3 or 4 wire sensor? Thanks in advance!
 
There is no advantage if your sensor is located on the factory manifold in the stock location. It's there to keep it hot, which means you don't need a heater. If, as in my case, you run a header and the location of the sensor has a tendency to get cold, say at idle, then yes, a heated sensor is a good idea. I run a three wire sensor after the collector on my header.

The older sensors all function the same. So headed or not makes no difference. Mine is from a 1994 Chevy Astro Van (Denso 234-3005). It has the standard screw-in bung.

Keep in mind that trucks that came with a heated sensor have the heater turned on by the computer under conditions when it's necessary. In my case I can't give the unit that kind of control, so it's on all the time ... and with the engine-off/key-on the exhaust pipe gets damn hot.
 
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