Two part issue. Question about no start and ground (1 Viewer)

[packetstormin]

First off, I just finished putting everything back together after having issues with leaky injectors. Currently, I am experiencing a no-start/power issue. I can tell you for certain that when I parked my 4Runner in January, it WOULD start, and all the lights would come on normally. Does anybody have any suggestions about what to check? It should be noted that the vehicle has a fresh battery. Interestingly enough, a few lights initially did come on when I installed the new battery, but the truck would never start. It would not even turn over.

Also, I have a question about where this "ground" goes. It should be noted that the vehicle ran last January without the "ground" connected.

 

[KLF]

That ground attaches to the intake manifold.

 

[packetstormin]

By any chance do you have a picture or diagram of where it goes?

 

[KLF]

It can go anywhere on the intake, a ground is a ground. One of the plenum bolts is most common, here's mine:

 

[packetstormin]

Thanks for the example I will try that and see if if fixes the non start issue.

 

[packetstormin]

Well that fixed the no start.

I still am leaking from the injectors.

So I am going to have to tear that thing down again tomorrow and try again I guess.

Is there anyway I can test that system when I just have the fuel rail back on so I can see if there are any leaks?

 

[arndog123]

You can run a jumper wire on the fuel pump connector located on the driver side fender.

 

[KLF]

Yes, like he says, there is a test connector over on the driver's side inner fender, you can jumper it with a paper clip and when you turn the key to ON it will force the fuel pump to run.

So, you can do a pressure test on the injectors and rail with the plenum portion of the intake removed. The one problem you'll have is the port for the cold start injector. You can just re-connect the little pipe and the injector, assuming it doesn't leak it will hold pressure and you won 't get a bath in fuel.

 

[packetstormin]

So is this the connector you guys are talking about?

What are the conditions for this test to work?

The reason I'm asking is I tried that connector before bolting the plenum back on. Nothing happened.

So does that test go something like this? With the plenum off, reconnect the battery. Then jumper that connection and turn the ignition to ON, thus pressurizing the fuel rail.

The jumper I made consists of a piece of 12-gauge wire with a male spade connector on each end. This jumper that I described should work, correct?

 

[KLF]

Check this image that I "borrowed" from Rodger Brown's excellent website (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector):

This is on the driver's side inner fender on '85 trucks (EFI was still being perfected at this time), in '86 and up there is a diagnostic connector over on the fusebox behind the battery for everything. The plug circled in red is the fuel pump test plug. Yes, the behavior is (supposed to be) as you described. Any type of a jumper will work, a paper clip is typically used.

 

[packetstormin]

Thanks for the info on testing it. This time the test did indeed work. Do you have any tips for getting the injectors to line up correctly do I can button her back up?

 

[KLF]

It really shouldn't be that hard. Are you using new insulators, grommets, and O-rings? The FSM recommends soaking them in gasoline prior to assembly. The injectors actually kinda float between the intake and fuel rail, not a rigid mounting.

 

[packetstormin]

So when the manifold is off and I jumper the test connector I cannot get system to pressurize. Any ideas ?

 

[KLF]

Not off hand. The fuel pump wiring is pretty simple, I don't think it takes any input from the EFI system computer. Maybe there's a sensor that has to be connected somewhere.

Do you have a FSM with a wiring diagram?

 

[packetstormin]

Well I found my leak and it will be fixed with a new fuel hose.

Still never could get the fuel pump tester to work so instead I just had my wife bump the ignition a few times to build of pressure and that's how I found the leak. Still though it's kind of interesting that connector when jumpered never worked when I had the manifold off. I even hooked up the electrical connections on the manifold and still a no go.

I do have the electronic fsm but I am not sure it has the wiring diagram. Could it be that the test connector it's self is bad?

 

[packetstormin]

Also could you give me your thoughts on this.





This seems like a lot of build up for a new engine. Engine is a brand new long block with 1500 to 2000 miles on it.

 

[KLF]

I hope it's not one of the high pressure hoses, those things are stupidly expensive.

Does seem like a lot of carbon buildup for only that many miles. Have you done a valve adjustment lately?

 

[packetstormin]

No, not high pressure thank god. Just the hose from fuel pressure regulator to the firewall return pipe for the gas tank.

I am taking my rig in to the dealership here to have valves adjusted and the timing checked. I have never really felt comfortable adjusting the valves myself because the feel is so subjective.

For the life of me I can't remember the part name but it's a black round box on the intake manifold. This part is bad and from doing readings it seems like a real bear to setup because once again it uses feeler gauges to setup. So I am going to have the dealership install and adjust this for me as well.

 

[arndog123]

TPS or throttle position sensor.

 

[KLF]

I'm certain that if I took a 22RE into any dealership around here and asked then to do all that, they wouldn't have the slightest idea what I was talking about. Hope it works out!